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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Trip: The Lamplighter Trio-UTW Index - Date: 9/12/2016 Trip Report: Due to a tough work project, this summer was not great for me. However I did the 3 amazing route on Upper Town Wall that all start with the Lamplighters first pitch. After the obligatory grunt up the 10c trad first pitch the 3 routes eventually give way to some of the finest face climbing you can find on granite! Here they are in the order I did them: Thompson/Fuller Memorial Route The Crimson Eye Heaven's Gate Now, go lose some shoe rubber!
  2. Super report! So, did you take the knife edge ridge after the glacier?
  3. Yes! That route has been screaming for the full Steph treatment! Nice one.
  4. Impressive effort yet again! Way to scare the shit out of yourselves, and the readers here.
  5. Thunder peak I believe. Some punk took the summit register and sprayed about it about a decade ago. He got flamed pretty good over it too.
  6. https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/07/30/my-friend-laurel/
  7. There will be another announcement soon on a service this Sunday 7pm at the Mountaineers clubhouse Magnuson park
  8. Yes it is today at 4 PM It will probably be the first of many. It will be downstairs in the bar from four till whenever.
  9. Thanks Porter and Miles. She was one special person that's for sure. Terrible loss for us all. There will be an all-too-soon wake for her and her many friends at Seattle Bouldering Project bar after 4 pm.
  10. Great report, and sorry about all the extra work, but you earned it!!
  11. Wow, I got tired just reading about it! Great report thanks
  12. Incredible read, and send! Way to stick to it on lead! Very inspiring. Its not everyday that you get the first free ascent of a 50 Crowded, tfs. there may only be 1 or 2 at all left to go free. The only one I can think of is Middle Triple?
  13. no, I got an email from a guy in Maine that wanted to see them.
  14. Reposting for the pictures: here ...and the break the stronghold of trs up from olymyiatheclimber.
  15. We had deep snow but it wasn't icy I think ski pole and aluminum crampons is all you need there's never anything to Steep except for the base of the route. It will be warm you should go for it
  16. bumping this oldie but goodie.
  17. nice shots! great report too. thanks
  18. The direct early-season trail is barely workable the snow is soft down low and quite firm up high still. The slopes in general are not that steep so no Crampons were used.
  19. Trip: Labor Pains, N.Early Winter Spire x2 - Date: 5/29/2016 Trip Report: So I did this route last September, then again last weekend. It is a challenging, gamey, and unheralded route that could use some updating. The WA Pass supertopo book covers it well, and I did 2 trs on it on my web journal. Enjoy. 2015 report second trip.
  20. His writing has reached the level of his climbing for sure! What a run. Incredible to witness a career like this from the beginnings on this very site. Someone want to dig up an oldie tr from him? Please.
  21. " A sling for every tree!" I've said before at areas like Snow Creek Wall. the Tooth etc. It is lazy not to research and stick to the standard decent while coming down. Most dont require rapping at all, yet there they are. I like the pile of webbing that the Ranger Station had from cleaning up Triumph.
  22. Pete: Looking at the order in which the pulled pieces lay on his harness, He may have put in an over-cammed placement, then an undercammed one. He was doing a layback too, so in the blind. The crack is very solid, it was a shock to hear them pull.
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