wayne

Updated report from another trip up there

Yep, Hard to get something by Lowell.

Nw ridge of Logan?

I am flexible on the dates and projects. My ideal departure is late Feb. I need to be back in mid March. I do have a couple of towers in mind. 5.10-.11 please.

Bob, did you hear about this? Second Ascent added 2 new photos — with Will Hinckley and Braden Downey. January 17 at 1:04pm · Edited · From the guys that brought you "Fast & Light in the Alaska Range" did it again on one of Washington's formidable beasts. Last week Will Hinckley & Braden Downey climbed what is known to be the ‪#‎secondascent‬ of the Polish Route on Colfax Peak with difficulties of run-out sections up to WI6. Will states, "It's by far the best ice line I've been on in Washington and it's definitely deserving of more traffic."

This thread inspired me to revamp an old profile on my website, thanks! 1) Have climbed. Zodiac Temple S.Pickets traverse Mongo Springbok 2) Capable of but have not climbed. Real Big Drip Cryophobia Rocketman Stanley Headwall big Patagonia tower 3) Admire but will never climb. Himalaya giant Ogre, Nanga, etc Helmekin Infinite Bliss

Sounds like a case of Curmudgeonitis, I feel the lure as a older climber, there is getting to be sooo many new people in the sport to add to the aggravation, but I have nothing but love for the new generation, and good things will come out of it. They seem to want to grow and do the right thing. I am seeing a lot of wierd rope work and such though. They need good examples from our generation. Hang in there.

Updated with Twisted, and Curtain Call: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2015/01/22/curtain-call-etc/

My condolences to all the friends and family. Tough loss.

Trip: Weeping Pillar, and Hydrophobia - Date: 1/15/2015 Trip Report: Did a couple of crazy routes In the Canadian Rockies this week. Weeping Pillar is on the Upper Weeping Wall. One has to climb a route on the Lower Weeping Wall to access the Upper. We did Sniveling Gully to conserve strength. Hydrophobia is an insane, fun 3 pitch route in a hard-to-get to place in the Ghost. Also did Twisted, and Curtain Call. Conditions are great right now. Hasnt snowed in a couple of weeks, and most things are fat. Temps are perfect right now = around freezing. More on https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2015/01/17/weeping-pillar-and-hydrophobia/

Nice year! I spent most of the year working on a very difficult construction project, but managed to do a little travel and climbing. Ive had better years, but good none-the-less. 2-5-9-14 Banks: Cable, Zenith, etc 7p to WI7 w jess, Beau, Ben E, Shaun, Mike 2-11-14 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost 4p WI6 w Jess 2-15-14 Nothing but the Breast 3 p wi4+ w/Lane. 22p ice trip 3-4-14 Levitation 29 , Eagle Wall, IV-5.11-A0 w/Mike 3-8-14 Iron Messiah III-5.10, Zion 3-9,10-14 The Silmaril, The Watchman V-5.11-A1 3-12-14 Monkeyfinger 6p, 5.11-A1 3-13-14 Smashmouth 4p, 5.11b 3-29-14 Triassic Sands, Wholesome Fullback, Our Father, BVWall. 9p link-up to 10d 3-31-14 Unimpeachable Groping 6p 5.10+ 4-1-14 Dark Shadows (complete), Mescalito IV-5.8 11p 7-5-14 E. Face Minuteman III-5.10b 6p w Paul 7-12.13-14 Gorillas in the Mist West Wall, Mt Stuart IV-5,11. With Jon T. 9-14-14 Solitude, Lookout pt, Index 5p 11b A1 w/Alex 9-20-14 Krimo to Liquid Gold 5p 5.11a w/ryan 9-21-14 Borderline-Angels Crest- High Plains Drifter 16p 11c w/alex,jon 9-28-14 Strange Boar to Black Rock, index 7 total p to 11a 10-5-14 Wildest Dreams 4p 5.11- A1, + 2p w/Doug H. 12-9to12-16-14 Hyalite 18p to WI5, M6 there are trip reports for the routes on my blog

Right back at you big fella. Glad you landed intact. and soon when only bouldering is done all this ropey stuff wont matter anyways.

Ramada Inn. Window Rock Cabin(may be full?Plaid may have it reserved and have room?) The place just south of the brewhouse has a hot tub and is affordable. Best to arrange online ahead of time for max savings. That being said, one can also try alternatives like couchsurf, craigslist etc. I did a ride share there off craigslist with a lovely British gal. Made the drive more adventurous, affordable. I am also developing friends to stay with there in Bozeman too. It is great, but obligates you to climb and socialize with your hosts. There are much worse problems to have than that though. Have fun Marko! Going with Rat?

Anyone want to go scrapping for ice around Alpental later this week? Thurs, fri?

Gibraltar wall, and I really like Bull River too on the way up there

Good report, nice to see the clinics deliver some laps.

They are really, really good. They go in so easy , come out easy, and rack up nicely. Big advance.

Trip: Just go to Hyalite. - Date: 12/7/2014 Trip Report: Got past a month of sitting on my ass due to injuries and had a great week in Hyalite. Funny how warm temps and big crowds still made for an awesome trip. Attending another World Cup was inspiring too. List of daily adventure: 12-9-14 Feeding Cat, Matrix 3 p to wi4 m5 w/ Ari, Kristen 12-10-14 Scepter WI 5 1p+lap w/Ari, K 12-12-14 Climb Above Dribbles, aka Alex in Wonderland III+ Wi5-M6 w Keenan 12-13-14 Monkey Ass Wall WI5 ip w/Jeff, Nelson 12-14-14 Panama Canal M9 with Marko Ben, Bekah 12-15-14 Champagne Sherbet, Slot 2p WI4 12-16-14 Avalanche Gulch 5p Wi5 m4 all routes are in great shape and were building up in the cooler temps. More on personal journal

8" new fluff just fell, but stuff is building back up. Im staying a few more days.

Most survived, but will be picked out unless you go long, We had a great time on Monkey Ass Wall! No pick marks on that one! It may start building again with the colder temps and less crowds.

I am sure that most of the ice will survive the high temps going on this week, and by the weekend things should start building again.

edit: partner found, Rideshare is still on though...... I am leaving monday if you want to split gas.

Nice report! I have always been fascinated with the white capstone there. Probably a fatal attraction on my part, would not be the first. Is it as bad as they say?

Thanks K, Enjoy Canada. How about Zach Attack and Hydromonster?

For socializing the epicenter is around the Fremont area. Gyms on all sides. Good access to hiways. Ballard is nice, climbers tend to like it.