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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. I posted a tr long ago that warned of a particularly dangerous flake at the first belay opportunity after the Pressure Chamber pitch. It was used many times by unsuspecting climbers/belayers for decades. If it is that one , I am glad it went off without injuries or worse.
  2. Nice one. Rumor has it that this route may make it into a new "select" guide.
  3. I feel your pain, try Mt. Project too.
  4. Rumor has it that there is a wi5 line that forms on the Mowich. Heard 2nd hand so...
  5. Looks good, keep it up!
  6. The weather looks like most of my trips there! Sweet report.
  7. Trip: Utah desert - 5 crazy towers + Indian Creek Date: 3/16/2015 Trip Report: Just finished a great trip to the desert of Utah, Had a fantastic time doing Fine Jade, the Priest, Standing Rock and more. Did a photo and write up on my personal Journal : here . Thanks for reading Sorry, couldn't get the photo uploader to work on this site..
  8. SOLD all gear except; tent and shoes.
  9. Great to see this! Keep the stoke alive guys.
  10. FOR SALE! Black Diamond/ Bibler I-Tent $390.00 *Never used*. Seam sealed bought in 2011, stored well and in perfect shape Regular size. Specs here Fixe Alien Cam size 1, Red $40. Very lightly used #1 Red Alien. Newer style 44 ½ Five-Ten Velcro rock shoes $40 Petzl Dart dual point crampon fronts w/ straps $50
  11. Updated report from another trip up there
  12. Yep, Hard to get something by Lowell.
  13. Nw ridge of Logan?
  14. I am flexible on the dates and projects. My ideal departure is late Feb. I need to be back in mid March. I do have a couple of towers in mind. 5.10-.11 please.
  15. Bob, did you hear about this? Second Ascent added 2 new photos — with Will Hinckley and Braden Downey. January 17 at 1:04pm · Edited · From the guys that brought you "Fast & Light in the Alaska Range" did it again on one of Washington's formidable beasts. Last week Will Hinckley & Braden Downey climbed what is known to be the ‪#‎secondascent‬ of the Polish Route on Colfax Peak with difficulties of run-out sections up to WI6. Will states, "It's by far the best ice line I've been on in Washington and it's definitely deserving of more traffic."
  16. This thread inspired me to revamp an old profile on my website, thanks! 1) Have climbed. Zodiac Temple S.Pickets traverse Mongo Springbok 2) Capable of but have not climbed. Real Big Drip Cryophobia Rocketman Stanley Headwall big Patagonia tower 3) Admire but will never climb. Himalaya giant Ogre, Nanga, etc Helmekin Infinite Bliss
  17. Sounds like a case of Curmudgeonitis, I feel the lure as a older climber, there is getting to be sooo many new people in the sport to add to the aggravation, but I have nothing but love for the new generation, and good things will come out of it. They seem to want to grow and do the right thing. I am seeing a lot of wierd rope work and such though. They need good examples from our generation. Hang in there.
  18. Updated with Twisted, and Curtain Call: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2015/01/22/curtain-call-etc/
  19. My condolences to all the friends and family. Tough loss.
  20. Trip: Weeping Pillar, and Hydrophobia - Date: 1/15/2015 Trip Report: Did a couple of crazy routes In the Canadian Rockies this week. Weeping Pillar is on the Upper Weeping Wall. One has to climb a route on the Lower Weeping Wall to access the Upper. We did Sniveling Gully to conserve strength. Hydrophobia is an insane, fun 3 pitch route in a hard-to-get to place in the Ghost. Also did Twisted, and Curtain Call. Conditions are great right now. Hasnt snowed in a couple of weeks, and most things are fat. Temps are perfect right now = around freezing. More on https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2015/01/17/weeping-pillar-and-hydrophobia/
  21. Nice year! I spent most of the year working on a very difficult construction project, but managed to do a little travel and climbing. Ive had better years, but good none-the-less. 2-5-9-14 Banks: Cable, Zenith, etc 7p to WI7 w jess, Beau, Ben E, Shaun, Mike 2-11-14 Rainbow Serpent, Ghost 4p WI6 w Jess 2-15-14 Nothing but the Breast 3 p wi4+ w/Lane. 22p ice trip 3-4-14 Levitation 29 , Eagle Wall, IV-5.11-A0 w/Mike 3-8-14 Iron Messiah III-5.10, Zion 3-9,10-14 The Silmaril, The Watchman V-5.11-A1 3-12-14 Monkeyfinger 6p, 5.11-A1 3-13-14 Smashmouth 4p, 5.11b 3-29-14 Triassic Sands, Wholesome Fullback, Our Father, BVWall. 9p link-up to 10d 3-31-14 Unimpeachable Groping 6p 5.10+ 4-1-14 Dark Shadows (complete), Mescalito IV-5.8 11p 7-5-14 E. Face Minuteman III-5.10b 6p w Paul 7-12.13-14 Gorillas in the Mist West Wall, Mt Stuart IV-5,11. With Jon T. 9-14-14 Solitude, Lookout pt, Index 5p 11b A1 w/Alex 9-20-14 Krimo to Liquid Gold 5p 5.11a w/ryan 9-21-14 Borderline-Angels Crest- High Plains Drifter 16p 11c w/alex,jon 9-28-14 Strange Boar to Black Rock, index 7 total p to 11a 10-5-14 Wildest Dreams 4p 5.11- A1, + 2p w/Doug H. 12-9to12-16-14 Hyalite 18p to WI5, M6 there are trip reports for the routes on my blog
  22. Right back at you big fella. Glad you landed intact. and soon when only bouldering is done all this ropey stuff wont matter anyways.
  23. Ramada Inn. Window Rock Cabin(may be full?Plaid may have it reserved and have room?) The place just south of the brewhouse has a hot tub and is affordable. Best to arrange online ahead of time for max savings. That being said, one can also try alternatives like couchsurf, craigslist etc. I did a ride share there off craigslist with a lovely British gal. Made the drive more adventurous, affordable. I am also developing friends to stay with there in Bozeman too. It is great, but obligates you to climb and socialize with your hosts. There are much worse problems to have than that though. Have fun Marko! Going with Rat?
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