wayne
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Everything posted by wayne
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[TR] Squamish- Tantalus Wall - Tantalus Wall 5.11C A0 8/25/2014
wayne replied to eldiente's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Frikin RAD! -
Trip: Squamish Liquid Gold, Borderline-HPDrifter - Date: 9/26/2014 Trip Report: Trending is the combination routes that leave you with names like Borderline-Angels Crest- High Plains Drifter. Which happens to be the best route I have done up there. It was great to take an Alpine Mentors group up there and spend 2 quality days getting rope gunned on the fat crystal granite. The Weather was perfect for 23 pitches of fun. Thanks to Steve for putting this together! More on Personal Journal
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[TR] Torment-Forbidden-Sharkfin-Boston-Sahale Traverse - 9/12/2014
wayne replied to JDT's topic in North Cascades
Nice extension to a great weekend! I've updated the traverse page with your outstanding report. -
Pretty sweet new route here: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2014/09/18/solitude-lookout-pt-index/
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Downloadable by phone or ipad only... Rad, go check out Solitude a 5 pitch 11 on Lookout point, real gem. Agreed on mt project as a good resource.
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Josh, keep in touch, we are all pulling for you, Wayne
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The secret Monkey Tram leads right to the crag. Thanks for working on this project Blake, That place is amazing, and I hope lots of enthusiasts chip in on the work.
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http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Stronger-Faster-Healthier-Beyond/dp/149965667X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=michael+layton+book
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So my buddy Michael just released his second edition of his monster book: Climbing Faster, stronger, and healthier! Picture ALL of the "How to" books of climbing put into one! Also throw out all of the mundane beginner fundamentals. It is literally 12 books in one. Outstanding information in all of these areas: 1. Training Basics (my weakness) 2. Preparation and prevention, covers 99% of the body.( web discount codes for the other 1%) 3.4. Exercises. 5, 6. The Mental aspects of climbing and training. Cant get enough on this subject. 7,8. Health and nutrition. 9-12. More than you can ever imagine on planning skills technical equipment, and trickery. These sections validate the old saying "old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill, every time" You will be a way more savvy climber after these chapters! I am lucky man to have such great friends. I tend to be drawn to intelligent people. Though it seems unlikely to have an occasional conflict with such considerate and thoughtful friends, it can happen. I recall a heated argument that left me at odds with my best friend. I wanted to do The Fine Line on Elephants perch, but I did not want to have to lead all of its difficult pitches ( all 12 of them are difficult). I was lucky to find a person to swap leads at the base camp to replace my now upset friend. He was lucky that he found a partner as well to do an easier route. I felt bad for the move, but this is typical behavior for an ambitious nature/bastard. We later talked and made amends, but his argument had holes. I remember him saying: " Well, you have gotten better" (as a climber). My reply was, " well, ALL of climbing has gotten better" ..and continues to. It is up to each individual to either keep up, or enjoy the easier routes with people that stay at moderate difficulty climbs. I recall another argument I had with a younger friend. I do enjoy discovering when I take the wrong side of the agreement >in this case> We we talking about the harder routes and how after a climb like the Passenger gets done. I thought very few ascents occur annually say, 2-3. We later met that many at the Mazama store that had climbed it prior, or had climbed it that weekend. "Its the new thing" he explained, everybody's doing these routes that just a few years prior were thought to be sacred relics of difficulty! People, the day is here when the crowded classics are no longer just the 5.8s and 9s of yesteryear! They are your dream routes, and they are getting done all the time. Throw in the aging issue, finding partners and keeping up with the culture of the area, you have your work cut out for you. How about the safety issue? The more fit we are the safer and enjoyable the experience.You wouldn't even be looking for improvement and knowledge if you ware happy with where you are. It has been my pleasure to work on the several of the ideas in Michael's book, through trial and conversation over the years, It makes me proud to be friends with a person willing to take on the struggle of amassing such a great body of work. I hope it invigorates your passion for the the next big adventure as it has mine. There are so many reasons to want to be a more fit and efficient outdoor person. How about just the joy of sending some amazing hard route? Setting yourself up for that sick trad route? You're first - first ascent?, or just looking good at the lake? How about living longer and a more fulfilled life , because, you will only get this one. We spring forth from the Earth, and it is always calling us back. Enjoy Michaels new book, Wayne
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[TR] Ptarmigan Traverse N-S - Formidable, Spire, Dome, big storm 7/20/2014
wayne replied to Lisa_D's topic in North Cascades
Wonderful report, thanks. Amazing perseverance too -
I love the fact that he used my joke review in the actual book! You will have to buy it to find out what was said though.
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I gotta agree with the other approach, but you got up the Gully of Doom! and thats an amazing cirque to visit. Nice job and thanks for the report. It is a good line. BTW, the prior ascent was 2009.
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[TR] North Cascades - Nooksack Tower / Price Glacier 8/5/2014
wayne replied to dave schultz's topic in North Cascades
Nice! My second trip to the cascades and we did a similar outing as yours in 3 days. After getting way off route on the approach to Price lake, we bivied at the lake , then did N ridge Nooksack, bivied at the base of it afterwards, then did Price on a day that got up to 100 degrees in Seattle! Summitted and all the way out to lake Ann where I left my bike. Drove back to Portland arriving at 3am, and worked the same day. Ouch, I know your pain. Labor Day weekend 1988. -
Not at all, that is a cold wall. Might suffer on the approach though.
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Stellar looking adventure!! on the list. And thanks for not sandbagging that approach.
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[TR] Waddington Range - Various 8/10/2014
wayne replied to marc_leclerc's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Oh yea, all the times Ive had to use my arial gymnastics in the mountains. sick. -
[TR] Bugaboos - Bugaboo-Snowpatch col 8/9/2014
wayne replied to coastal 'swhack's topic in British Columbia/Canada
that thing needs a tram.