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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Trip: Labor Pains, N.Early Winter Spire x2 - Date: 5/29/2016 Trip Report: So I did this route last September, then again last weekend. It is a challenging, gamey, and unheralded route that could use some updating. The WA Pass supertopo book covers it well, and I did 2 trs on it on my web journal. Enjoy. 2015 report second trip.
  2. His writing has reached the level of his climbing for sure! What a run. Incredible to witness a career like this from the beginnings on this very site. Someone want to dig up an oldie tr from him? Please.
  3. " A sling for every tree!" I've said before at areas like Snow Creek Wall. the Tooth etc. It is lazy not to research and stick to the standard decent while coming down. Most dont require rapping at all, yet there they are. I like the pile of webbing that the Ranger Station had from cleaning up Triumph.
  4. Pete: Looking at the order in which the pulled pieces lay on his harness, He may have put in an over-cammed placement, then an undercammed one. He was doing a layback too, so in the blind. The crack is very solid, it was a shock to hear them pull.
  5. The jump off: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/04/20/index-4-16-big-weekend-and-close-call/
  6. Short Version: The Edelrid Micro-Jul system brings brake assisted belaying and rappelling to double ropes!! However to get proficient with the device, a good deal of patience is required. It has very specific details to its use. READ and follow ALL safety manuals! When combined with the Flycatcher Twin 6.9 mil ropes, you have a super light system, and confidence that will come from familiarity with this advanced product. More on my webber.
  7. Thanks, went back for more in those crazy-warm temps! With Glasgowkiss, we did Fang+ Fist, Wuthering Heights, Carlsberg, and Kronenburg, and more (on blogosphere of course).
  8. I watched the video and found it very compelling. Thanks for seeing it through and providing the story. I'll bet there are a few of those in north cascades. I saw an impenetrable valley near mt logan that had a whole valley side fracture and slide many meters in a v shape. Pretty sure nobodies seen that valley either.
  9. Have all those routes/ lines been climbed?
  10. I saw you guys on Kid cliff, and Pope on Rap Wall. We were coming down from a Bryant Buttress climb: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/01/12/the-circumvention-aka-fan-wallace-new-mixed-route/ .
  11. Trip: “The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace-m5+, FA Date: 1/11/2016 Trip Report: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.phpphoto=110317&title=p1170012&cat=500“ The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace is located above Source Lake area. To the right of Flow Reversal, and Resistance Is Futile, yet left of where people skin up to Chair Peak. Best approached from the Flow Reversal area, up and right, reaching a sweet thin gully with turf hooks and thin ice. When it gets steep, there could be an exciting direct finish to the pitch, or the obvious off-width crack to the left. We did it in 3 short pitches, but best to do it in 2. Move the belay high enough to see the leader either finish on the ice daggers, or the exciting “Fan” finish to the steep ramp up and right. 60m ropes just reach the bottom. Pins, stoppers, screws and specters are all handy. more on blog
  12. Nuts! Just typing out that list would hurt my fingers!
  13. Good, yet small line of products. The guy will help you design new gadgets though! Product review
  14. Nice Priti! Louise looks bad in that photo. You will be back I am sure. Moderators, what was I doing wrong on my Photos loading? Thanks
  15. Trip: Canadian Rockies Ice and Mixed - Date: 1/5/2016 Trip Report: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160748.jpeg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160791.jpeg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160954.jpeg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160680.jpeg[/img] Had a great week up there doing 4 amazing routes between Xmass and New Years. Mixed Master is soooo fat right now, I hope everyone gets a shot at it! More on bloggy .
  16. I can add a few to the list that rarly are in as good as they are now: Mixed Master is in and fat!! been waiting 20+years for that one. Bourgeau left is fat but sunny. Pilsner and entire Field area is in great
  17. https://www.facebook.com/SpokaneMountaineers/?fref=ts https://www.facebook.com/groups/SpokaneClimbingAssociation/
  18. There is a great core of dedicated climbers in the community and the general area. Seek out clubs, events, and the like. Search facebook and partner forums here and mt project, troll Canadians as well. I know a few good people. pm me for a few names.
  19. Todds claimed them.
  20. gone, thanks .Used for 5 ice seasons, free to seattle pick up 60 double ropes. no big flaws either.
  21. I Haaaaaate vague questions like this, but I'll bite. There are many different sports-within-the sport Peak bagging FAs: Roper, or Lage tough alpine rock routes: Brian Burdo or Doorish Traverses: yours truly Alpine ice and mixed routes: not sure Old school classic lines: Fred Beckey Last Great problems: Rolf Larsen, Eric Wehrley FWA: not sure Sport: Burdo/Yoder
  22. Looking for a mixed outing at exit 38 or rap wall for sunday> drivivng from seattle. Let me know thanks
  23. Nice run of routes there! I wasnt super impressed with Positive, but it does have some fun pitches though. I hear Sunspot Dihedral is the sweeter climb of "reduced" difficulty routes.
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