wayne

The jump off: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/04/20/index-4-16-big-weekend-and-close-call/

emailed you.

Short Version: The Edelrid Micro-Jul system brings brake assisted belaying and rappelling to double ropes!! However to get proficient with the device, a good deal of patience is required. It has very specific details to its use. READ and follow ALL safety manuals! When combined with the Flycatcher Twin 6.9 mil ropes, you have a super light system, and confidence that will come from familiarity with this advanced product. More on my webber.

Thanks, went back for more in those crazy-warm temps! With Glasgowkiss, we did Fang+ Fist, Wuthering Heights, Carlsberg, and Kronenburg, and more (on blogosphere of course).

I watched the video and found it very compelling. Thanks for seeing it through and providing the story. I'll bet there are a few of those in north cascades. I saw an impenetrable valley near mt logan that had a whole valley side fracture and slide many meters in a v shape. Pretty sure nobodies seen that valley either.

Have all those routes/ lines been climbed?

I saw you guys on Kid cliff, and Pope on Rap Wall. We were coming down from a Bryant Buttress climb: https://waynewallace.wordpress.com/2016/01/12/the-circumvention-aka-fan-wallace-new-mixed-route/ .

Trip: “The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace-m5+, FA Date: 1/11/2016 Trip Report: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.phpphoto=110317&title=p1170012&cat=500“ The Circumvention”, aka. Fan-Wallace is located above Source Lake area. To the right of Flow Reversal, and Resistance Is Futile, yet left of where people skin up to Chair Peak. Best approached from the Flow Reversal area, up and right, reaching a sweet thin gully with turf hooks and thin ice. When it gets steep, there could be an exciting direct finish to the pitch, or the obvious off-width crack to the left. We did it in 3 short pitches, but best to do it in 2. Move the belay high enough to see the leader either finish on the ice daggers, or the exciting “Fan” finish to the steep ramp up and right. 60m ropes just reach the bottom. Pins, stoppers, screws and specters are all handy. more on blog

Nuts! Just typing out that list would hurt my fingers!

Good, yet small line of products. The guy will help you design new gadgets though! Product review

Nice Priti! Louise looks bad in that photo. You will be back I am sure. Moderators, what was I doing wrong on my Photos loading? Thanks

Trip: Canadian Rockies Ice and Mixed - Date: 1/5/2016 Trip Report: [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160748.jpeg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160791.jpeg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160954.jpeg[/img] [img:center]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/P1160680.jpeg[/img] Had a great week up there doing 4 amazing routes between Xmass and New Years. Mixed Master is soooo fat right now, I hope everyone gets a shot at it! More on bloggy .

I can add a few to the list that rarly are in as good as they are now: Mixed Master is in and fat!! been waiting 20+years for that one. Bourgeau left is fat but sunny. Pilsner and entire Field area is in great

https://www.facebook.com/SpokaneMountaineers/?fref=ts https://www.facebook.com/groups/SpokaneClimbingAssociation/

There is a great core of dedicated climbers in the community and the general area. Seek out clubs, events, and the like. Search facebook and partner forums here and mt project, troll Canadians as well. I know a few good people. pm me for a few names.

Todds claimed them.

gone, thanks .Used for 5 ice seasons, free to seattle pick up 60 double ropes. no big flaws either.

Damn nice!

I Haaaaaate vague questions like this, but I'll bite. There are many different sports-within-the sport Peak bagging FAs: Roper, or Lage tough alpine rock routes: Brian Burdo or Doorish Traverses: yours truly Alpine ice and mixed routes: not sure Old school classic lines: Fred Beckey Last Great problems: Rolf Larsen, Eric Wehrley FWA: not sure Sport: Burdo/Yoder

Looking for a mixed outing at exit 38 or rap wall for sunday> drivivng from seattle. Let me know thanks

Nice run of routes there! I wasnt super impressed with Positive, but it does have some fun pitches though. I hear Sunspot Dihedral is the sweeter climb of "reduced" difficulty routes.

Boom! So no problems with connecting flights, or that last pitch at the top? How about the new Jeffrey estate!?

Trip: Habrich, Milk Road, Bullethead East - Date: 9/11/2015 Trip Report: I am very excited to have gone to Squamish 3 different times this year!! What a great venue for long routes with low commitment. I can see why so many people are flocking there to climb and live. I hope the town and area handle the growing pains ahead. I just finished 3 weeks off from work and was frustrated by the weather and lack of partners. I was able to get a great trip to Leavenworth, and finally a great trip with Lane to Squamish right at the end of it. At the top of the list was Life on Earth on the SW Face of Mt Habrich. We took the Sea-to-Sky Tram which takes you just over half way up the mountain. A few easy mile, then steep up-hill trail, leads to the split left in the trail to the base of the route. Look for a red rope heading up to the base of the climb. The first pitch is very fun with cracks and face moves. The rest of the route has an occasional hard face moves with decent rock the whole way. We were surprised to see many parties up there even on a Friday, but we never were slowed down. We teamed up with the party behind us to double up our collective ropes and rappel the route. Much better option than going down the other way in rock shoes. Thanks to Gary and Elise for the option. Great day in the mountains. Next up on Saturday was the big prize: Milk Road and its legendary 4th pitch endurance corner. It was wet at the start of the route, but still fun going up the 2nd pitch with its arch and face moves.. but before we knew it, I was headed up one of the best pitches in Squamish determined to on-site it. It got to where it seemed silly to do it in the best style because I got very tired, and the lead took a long time. I should have just hung on a piece of gear, but I was not giving in, and got to the top under what was left of my own power.. The rest of the route was pretty forgettable except for the super crazy 8th pitch. What a wild ride it is, with delicate foot mantles and insane exposure. Once again I was determined to get it clean, and thanks to a great climbing season, I did!! We topped the long weekend off with Bulletheads East, a 4 pitch romp that has great fingers and hands the whole way up on good rock. I am very grateful to have had such good weather and climb 3 long routes as I am headed back to a work project that will last 12 months with no more breaks. (regular) Life goes on. Photos dont load for me here, they are on my site however Approach Notes: Sea to sky tram is the way to go.

Trip: Prussik Peak - Der Sportsman Date: 9/7/2015 Trip Report: Well, if you haven't done it already, go do Der Sportsman. It is a most-classic-route type of climb. It is difficult, yet doable. The climb and setting are superb. Here is the story from Labor Day '15 I tried the photo uploader yet again on safari. It didn't work for me either, sorry

Thanks for the detailed report! Its been on my list for a while. If one took the ride up, how far is it from the gondola to the base? Thanks