wayne

Boom! So no problems with connecting flights, or that last pitch at the top? How about the new Jeffrey estate!?

Trip: Habrich, Milk Road, Bullethead East - Date: 9/11/2015 Trip Report: I am very excited to have gone to Squamish 3 different times this year!! What a great venue for long routes with low commitment. I can see why so many people are flocking there to climb and live. I hope the town and area handle the growing pains ahead. I just finished 3 weeks off from work and was frustrated by the weather and lack of partners. I was able to get a great trip to Leavenworth, and finally a great trip with Lane to Squamish right at the end of it. At the top of the list was Life on Earth on the SW Face of Mt Habrich. We took the Sea-to-Sky Tram which takes you just over half way up the mountain. A few easy mile, then steep up-hill trail, leads to the split left in the trail to the base of the route. Look for a red rope heading up to the base of the climb. The first pitch is very fun with cracks and face moves. The rest of the route has an occasional hard face moves with decent rock the whole way. We were surprised to see many parties up there even on a Friday, but we never were slowed down. We teamed up with the party behind us to double up our collective ropes and rappel the route. Much better option than going down the other way in rock shoes. Thanks to Gary and Elise for the option. Great day in the mountains. Next up on Saturday was the big prize: Milk Road and its legendary 4th pitch endurance corner. It was wet at the start of the route, but still fun going up the 2nd pitch with its arch and face moves.. but before we knew it, I was headed up one of the best pitches in Squamish determined to on-site it. It got to where it seemed silly to do it in the best style because I got very tired, and the lead took a long time. I should have just hung on a piece of gear, but I was not giving in, and got to the top under what was left of my own power.. The rest of the route was pretty forgettable except for the super crazy 8th pitch. What a wild ride it is, with delicate foot mantles and insane exposure. Once again I was determined to get it clean, and thanks to a great climbing season, I did!! We topped the long weekend off with Bulletheads East, a 4 pitch romp that has great fingers and hands the whole way up on good rock. I am very grateful to have had such good weather and climb 3 long routes as I am headed back to a work project that will last 12 months with no more breaks. (regular) Life goes on. Photos dont load for me here, they are on my site however Approach Notes: Sea to sky tram is the way to go.

Trip: Prussik Peak - Der Sportsman Date: 9/7/2015 Trip Report: Well, if you haven't done it already, go do Der Sportsman. It is a most-classic-route type of climb. It is difficult, yet doable. The climb and setting are superb. Here is the story from Labor Day '15 I tried the photo uploader yet again on safari. It didn't work for me either, sorry

Thanks for the detailed report! Its been on my list for a while. If one took the ride up, how far is it from the gondola to the base? Thanks

Full circle, and then some! Nice job there team.

My belayer is quite up to speed on my preferences thank you very much. As for not trying hard enough? Does grunting really loud-ok screaming- make it seem like I am am punting? It was labor pains after all. Thanks for the picture, Wayne

Upload-shmupload, the photo loader is a piece of crap. It only works for me about 1 in 5 tries. Maybe its a browser thing? I am using chrome. Nice traverse btw!

You k-12s gonna just blow by this? RE: Cloud 9: "Im surprised you-know-who didnt chop this route like some of the other routes up there. There are still a couple of other amazing pitches up there that need freshening up. A 10d**(forget the name) and an 11 called High and Mighty ****that still hasnt been led! Not to mention Death and Taxes( which did get chopped, and thats ok by me as it was rap bolted and obnoxious)." Go get Cloud Nine! Then go back to your trolling.

Nice report! The cats out of the bag for Phantom w ridge. what was the factor in not going after it?

Heartbreaking news, Condolences to the friends, family and co-workers.

Trip: Squamish - Wonderful thing about Tiggers, Sunset Strip Date: 8/3/2015 Trip Report: Looking for some amazing long climbs that beat the hot weather? Head North to Squamish and find the Fluffy Kitten wall in the higher altitude and shade!> Get an early start and do the 12 pitch mega-classic Sunset Strip on the Dihedrals. 2 of the finest routes for the grade up there for sure. Did a beta search and write up on my personal journal Gear Notes: dont buy into the mega rack beta on tiggers

Nice to see that it still possible to climb there, barely though it seems. Way to persist.

Laurel, I was just thinking that I should do a trilogy with the moderate grade routes and an elite list too! May I build on your outstanding moderate list?

My list of the top 50 routes in the 5.10-to.11- at Index index top 50

Nice one! Glad it was a quality outing too!! Too bad about the Turret, but it figures. Did you guys go the same way as the SPT, which goes up to the thank god traverse?

Wow, so you stayed on SCE the whole way, that is wild! Was it clean/well traveled? It looked harder, you missed cool stuff on SBA, which means you may have to go back? When its cooler of course. That descent is a rope slayer.

Trip: Southern Man, S.E.W.Spire - Date: 6/21/2015 Trip Report: What a wild headwall this route has going up the steep face left of the East Buttress route. Dont be put off by the grades, which we thought were a little soft. Great position and thin crack climbing on it with easy gear. Great outing on a very popular crag. Photos and beta on ..guess where...

Yes, I too wished the South face of Argonaut was a lot closer to a road. Sweet wall for sure.

Yo Ivanhoe, I once heard tale of a project on, of all places, Bat Wall. Heard of it? "Die in the Gym", or something like that. Has that seen a 2nd ascent to your knowledge?

Another sweet report. Nice season you are having!

Hey Shaun, thanks for the scoop on the route.

We saw that, only 5.10? thats great

Nice one! or 3.

Trip: Supercave, Ellen Pea rt. - Date: 6/7/2015 Trip Report: What a climb! its already being called the best climb in the state. Thanks to whomever replaced the approach ropes and added a second one. Looks like you have some fun projects going on up there! 1st attempt was last year with Paul. after mistakenly going way past the start of the route up the approach gully, we bailed disgusted with how involved and somewhat dangerous the approach appeared. 2nd attempt was done early in the snow year to try to avoid the bad slabs by walking atop the snowpack instead. The only problem with that notion was that Jon and I found the upper part of the route to be very wet- april 19th , lesson learned. Attempt# 3 just happened June 7 of 2015, and it was just dry enough to climb More beta/ photos on my online journal Admins, photo loader is being weird.

Talent meets conditions! love it, thanks for sharing.