wayne
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Everything posted by wayne
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My belayer is quite up to speed on my preferences thank you very much. As for not trying hard enough? Does grunting really loud-ok screaming- make it seem like I am am punting? It was labor pains after all. Thanks for the picture, Wayne
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Upload-shmupload, the photo loader is a piece of crap. It only works for me about 1 in 5 tries. Maybe its a browser thing? I am using chrome. Nice traverse btw!
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You k-12s gonna just blow by this? RE: Cloud 9: "Im surprised you-know-who didnt chop this route like some of the other routes up there. There are still a couple of other amazing pitches up there that need freshening up. A 10d**(forget the name) and an 11 called High and Mighty ****that still hasnt been led! Not to mention Death and Taxes( which did get chopped, and thats ok by me as it was rap bolted and obnoxious)." Go get Cloud Nine! Then go back to your trolling.
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Nice report! The cats out of the bag for Phantom w ridge. what was the factor in not going after it?
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Heartbreaking news, Condolences to the friends, family and co-workers.
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Trip: Squamish - Wonderful thing about Tiggers, Sunset Strip Date: 8/3/2015 Trip Report: Looking for some amazing long climbs that beat the hot weather? Head North to Squamish and find the Fluffy Kitten wall in the higher altitude and shade!> Get an early start and do the 12 pitch mega-classic Sunset Strip on the Dihedrals. 2 of the finest routes for the grade up there for sure. Did a beta search and write up on my personal journal Gear Notes: dont buy into the mega rack beta on tiggers
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[TR] SOUTHERN PICKETS - Vacation of Inspiration and Terror 7/18/2015
wayne replied to YocumRidge's topic in North Cascades
Nice to see that it still possible to climb there, barely though it seems. Way to persist. -
Laurel, I was just thinking that I should do a trilogy with the moderate grade routes and an elite list too! May I build on your outstanding moderate list?
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My list of the top 50 routes in the 5.10-to.11- at Index index top 50
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first ascent [TR] The Himmelhorn - South Face-"Stonehenge" (FA) 7/6/2015
wayne replied to sparverius's topic in North Cascades
Nice one! Glad it was a quality outing too!! Too bad about the Turret, but it figures. Did you guys go the same way as the SPT, which goes up to the thank god traverse? -
[TR] Les Cornes - Sprung C#$k Erect 6/28/2015
wayne replied to Rad's topic in British Columbia/Canada
Wow, so you stayed on SCE the whole way, that is wild! Was it clean/well traveled? It looked harder, you missed cool stuff on SBA, which means you may have to go back? When its cooler of course. That descent is a rope slayer. -
Trip: Southern Man, S.E.W.Spire - Date: 6/21/2015 Trip Report: What a wild headwall this route has going up the steep face left of the East Buttress route. Dont be put off by the grades, which we thought were a little soft. Great position and thin crack climbing on it with easy gear. Great outing on a very popular crag. Photos and beta on ..guess where...
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Yes, I too wished the South face of Argonaut was a lot closer to a road. Sweet wall for sure.
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Yo Ivanhoe, I once heard tale of a project on, of all places, Bat Wall. Heard of it? "Die in the Gym", or something like that. Has that seen a 2nd ascent to your knowledge?
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[TR] Washington Pass - NW Corner; NEWS and S Arete SEWS - 6/12/2015
wayne replied to Verticolorful's topic in North Cascades
Another sweet report. Nice season you are having! -
Hey Shaun, thanks for the scoop on the route.
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We saw that, only 5.10? thats great
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Trip: Supercave, Ellen Pea rt. - Date: 6/7/2015 Trip Report: What a climb! its already being called the best climb in the state. Thanks to whomever replaced the approach ropes and added a second one. Looks like you have some fun projects going on up there! 1st attempt was last year with Paul. after mistakenly going way past the start of the route up the approach gully, we bailed disgusted with how involved and somewhat dangerous the approach appeared. 2nd attempt was done early in the snow year to try to avoid the bad slabs by walking atop the snowpack instead. The only problem with that notion was that Jon and I found the upper part of the route to be very wet- april 19th , lesson learned. Attempt# 3 just happened June 7 of 2015, and it was just dry enough to climb More beta/ photos on my online journal Admins, photo loader is being weird.
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pack-SOLD, take %10 off the rest, or free shipping.
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FOR SALE! Black Diamond/ Bibler I-Tent $380.00 *Never used*. Seam sealed bought in 2011, stored well and in perfect shape Regular size. Fixe Alien Cam size 1, Red $40. Very lightly used #1 Red Alien. Newer style 44 ½ Five-Ten Anasazi Velcro rock shoes $45. 5 years old. Never resoled. Almost ready for one. Sportiva TC-Pros size 45 ½. Resoled once. In great shape. $90 Trango Crag Pack –Blue. Crag Pack – 48 Liters with a tapered shape, large side-access zipper, and comfortable suspension system. It has a dedicated shoe pouch, an angled guide book pouch for easy withdrawal, and a side pocket that holds an included tarp for a clean place to set your gear. brand New $45
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I posted a tr long ago that warned of a particularly dangerous flake at the first belay opportunity after the Pressure Chamber pitch. It was used many times by unsuspecting climbers/belayers for decades. If it is that one , I am glad it went off without injuries or worse.
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[TR] Oregon Madness. - March Madness, Crown Jewel, Black Spider 2/2/2013
wayne replied to Dasan's topic in Oregon Cascades
Miss you big D.