wayne

Go check out Illumination rock

What Wayne and Colin did: We got 1 pitch up attempting TC direct. Very difficult on the easy looking stuff bailed off a bollard . If the thing touched down it would be sweet WI5-6!M8 if not. We ended up free soloeing North Face Direct 2200' AI3 sustained and a 5.7 Mixed moss and rock finish into TC. 2 1/2 hours up

Hey Ray how where the winds up high? I remmember walking downhill and parallel to the slope.weird

Thank you for sharing -your neighbors

Dang Colin ,I cant even make it home and you have already got the post up. Nice workin with you today. It isnt everyday you can free solo 2200 feet of kill ice.

Like I said before go to Illumination Rock. I am going to scan a copy of the topos soon I hope!

[ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

There is now a trip report on NY Gully on the front page trs

[ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ] [ 03-22-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

FREE THE SOLOIST'S!!!!!!!!!!My new cause

Do people solo anymore or is it considered idiotic these days? Here are the ones I know of... Charles Bell on Willis Wall(if he actually did it). Peter Croft on Traverseing the Southern Pickets.(Was he Solo? , Which of the peaks did he do?)

Did it in 94. 4 1/2 days .2 days in ,went high route,left of access ck .no bushwack but lots of elev gain and loss. 1 long ass day up and back to Luna col. Wathch how you start rt. we went up the right side of ridge to start though book says left,looked burly. Both have rockfall. Took the cramps off, on 7 times. Bring 1 wide piece 11 hex. Mind your p+qs on descent.Back at the boat by 9;00am day 5.

It seems like there is a thread I responded to a couple of days ago,giving some beta on ice there. I think it was "ski bowl ice". The only thing I would correct is only the tops are visible from the road, and they face the sun so this late it is sure to be drippy.the easiest thing there is wi4+. They are low too, I'd say 3-4k' [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Bring this Alaska to me ...... MAY 10 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! West Ridge of Hunterrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Other great routes when the others are busy; Fear of flyingCrusinHigh and MightyJensens RidgeRed Ice Steppenwolf!Mystery Route( Yes it is at Beacon)Dont tell anyoneFire and Ice (chopped)Anything on the Seasons WallPacific Rim

I am from pdx but now live in Seattle,so I dont know about this year. They will form when the Gorge does,and stick around a little longer. they are visible froom the road .about 5 routes will form up on the left side of the bluff . I led one of the steep curtains to steep gullies at WI5+ the place is steep and long requiring 2 ropes. most are tr able with bolts at top. Leading pro is available but take your whole bag of tricks

I have led a couple of them they are great practice. Have you been to Petes? Illumination? They have the better ice

When freezing conditions occur the Black Spider offers several great routes. One of them is actually quite doable at 5.6-AI3. It follows the obvious couloir up the right side then exits left though a hidden easy ramp.I called it the Davis Ramp. I believe it is the route Ted Davis soloed in the 70's. The other routes require what you described in the scrotal region.I talked with Jeff Thomas about when his new guide was to be out with alll the new stuff on Hood and it will be a while

Is it Bowline on a coil or colon on a boil? [ 03-10-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Uses for Bowline: if the rope is around something and you cant tie the first half of say a figure 8(the knot of choice).If you need a knot to come undone easy if it is to be loaded, It is an easy knot to tie with one hand. In an emergency it is super quick to tie. I will add that it is the only legal knot in the union construction trade. I have seen it used extensively with european climbers and alpine climbers in its double form. I have seen it fail after loosening to have tragic consequenses. If it is to be used as a harness tie in,double it, using the clove hitch to start instead of a double bight. It is a system I experimented with and is the only form of bowline I trust. As always any tie in knot should be backed up with a half grapevine and your partner should inspect it. Its your ass. [ 03-09-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

I sure dont regret dropping my skiis on Ranier that last time up.Boilerplate that is..w

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/mt/mt-comments.cgi?entry_id=34 Full beta now

[ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

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Kris, I emailed you about this weekend.w