wayne

When freezing conditions occur the Black Spider offers several great routes. One of them is actually quite doable at 5.6-AI3. It follows the obvious couloir up the right side then exits left though a hidden easy ramp.I called it the Davis Ramp. I believe it is the route Ted Davis soloed in the 70's. The other routes require what you described in the scrotal region.I talked with Jeff Thomas about when his new guide was to be out with alll the new stuff on Hood and it will be a while

Is it Bowline on a coil or colon on a boil? [ 03-10-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Uses for Bowline: if the rope is around something and you cant tie the first half of say a figure 8(the knot of choice).If you need a knot to come undone easy if it is to be loaded, It is an easy knot to tie with one hand. In an emergency it is super quick to tie. I will add that it is the only legal knot in the union construction trade. I have seen it used extensively with european climbers and alpine climbers in its double form. I have seen it fail after loosening to have tragic consequenses. If it is to be used as a harness tie in,double it, using the clove hitch to start instead of a double bight. It is a system I experimented with and is the only form of bowline I trust. As always any tie in knot should be backed up with a half grapevine and your partner should inspect it. Its your ass. [ 03-09-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

I sure dont regret dropping my skiis on Ranier that last time up.Boilerplate that is..w

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/mt/mt-comments.cgi?entry_id=34 Full beta now

[ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

] [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Kris, I emailed you about this weekend.w

Bungie Jumping helps.

A couple clear lessons from this horrendous accident is WEAR YOUR HELMUT, Always check your knot ,And I personally dont the like the bowline(double or single) for any tie in. My thoughts are with this guy , His family, and his great set of friends.w

Hey Stebbi, I remmember you from this summer on Sahale. How would you like to get out Sunday? I was the guy doin Buckner.w

Mt Bedal?

If I may speak for my friend Alasdair, I think he specificaly means the West ridge. And the question is , is the route better in may or June? Thanx.w

The Horse is a great place to start your ice vacation.It is cheap to stay in Golden and quick getting to the ice. Pretty nuts is the roadside classic and the crowds will agree, get there early or late. It will fit several parties but can suck when they bombard with ice or ropes. Riverview is fun,but can crowd out too.Essondale is tougher than the book suggests if the conditions are chandeliered.I think we did the Right and it was a 5 for sure.The other stuff to the left is scary looking. I think it is a great place to warm up for the stuff in Banff.Have fun

(Copious Fawning) We want to hear about it when you get back [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Great reports Mr.Skoog! It is refreshing to see this site used consructively.have you heard of the n.face of Buckner being skiied,and would it be better to first climb the easy rt(s.w.) up then ski the n.face then climb the n.face and return the easy way?

Hey Rep,It is not my style to discourage any ambition this side of suicide, but I will merely give the vitals on this route and let you decide.1. It has not seen a winter ascent according to the guide books, that doesnt mean it wont,just maybe not during a winter like this one. Last year would have been perfect and I would have been very interested myself2. I did the route with D.P. and I think you would find it intriuging enough in the summer.Recon time is never a waste3.I have been in the area in winter and it is most burly. Access and avvyies are difficult obstacles.4. I dont know how the subject of skiing came up , but to ski down would put you in a place where you would have to climb back up. Maybe you could climb the easy way up the south face and then skidown n.face to climb up the N. face then? The trip would be an expedition to put it lightly.5.No helicopter landings are allowed in the park.6. Good luck finding a willing partner.w [ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Being Wayne Wallace and having climbed three routes on the Spider, I hope the slide didnt wipe out the routes from end to end on the wall. The Spider is a wonderful and challenging face with great alpine climbing. The new Jeff Thomas guide should be out soon and topo the routes on the Spider as well as the best kept secret in the northwest.

no that wasnt the Pencil.It didnt form last year. That was the last 4+ pithces, where it gets fun! Nice picture David.

I now have 5 friends for sale :#1 Rigid - $12 #1 1/2 Rigid $15 #2 1/2 Hb Flex$22 #3 1/2 Rigid $20 #4 Rigid $20 $1 per unit off for buying multiples. I live in Seattle and will travel 5 miles to meet you .

David ,I bought mine cheap in Banff and they put them on for me there too. Took forever and looks like a pain in the ass.w p.s. They are the shit!

I have 3 Friends,size#1, 3-1/2, and 4. I also have a #2-1/2 HB Quadcam for sale $12-20 each.Write or call Wayne @ 206-818-1327. It would be great to have them in a good home.

I have 3 Friends,size#1, 3-1/2, and 4. I also have a #2-1/2 HB Quadcam for sale $12-20 each.Write or call Wayne @ 206-818-1327. It would be great to have them in a good home.

O.K. has anyone seen the new guide to southern B.C. Selected Alpine Climbs? IT is staggering, the pictures and routes are amazing. "All climbs within a weekend of Vancouver" . Who has done what that is classic? POST AWAY PLEASE!

Look for Jeff Thomas's new book out soon on the sick new routes on mt Hood and the other volcanoes.A lot of mixed and ice !