wayne

Do people solo anymore or is it considered idiotic these days? Here are the ones I know of... Charles Bell on Willis Wall(if he actually did it). Peter Croft on Traverseing the Southern Pickets.(Was he Solo? , Which of the peaks did he do?)

Did it in 94. 4 1/2 days .2 days in ,went high route,left of access ck .no bushwack but lots of elev gain and loss. 1 long ass day up and back to Luna col. Wathch how you start rt. we went up the right side of ridge to start though book says left,looked burly. Both have rockfall. Took the cramps off, on 7 times. Bring 1 wide piece 11 hex. Mind your p+qs on descent.Back at the boat by 9;00am day 5.

It seems like there is a thread I responded to a couple of days ago,giving some beta on ice there. I think it was "ski bowl ice". The only thing I would correct is only the tops are visible from the road, and they face the sun so this late it is sure to be drippy.the easiest thing there is wi4+. They are low too, I'd say 3-4k' [ 03-20-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Bring this Alaska to me ...... MAY 10 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! West Ridge of Hunterrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr [ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Other great routes when the others are busy; Fear of flyingCrusinHigh and MightyJensens RidgeRed Ice Steppenwolf!Mystery Route( Yes it is at Beacon)Dont tell anyoneFire and Ice (chopped)Anything on the Seasons WallPacific Rim

I am from pdx but now live in Seattle,so I dont know about this year. They will form when the Gorge does,and stick around a little longer. they are visible froom the road .about 5 routes will form up on the left side of the bluff . I led one of the steep curtains to steep gullies at WI5+ the place is steep and long requiring 2 ropes. most are tr able with bolts at top. Leading pro is available but take your whole bag of tricks

I have led a couple of them they are great practice. Have you been to Petes? Illumination? They have the better ice

When freezing conditions occur the Black Spider offers several great routes. One of them is actually quite doable at 5.6-AI3. It follows the obvious couloir up the right side then exits left though a hidden easy ramp.I called it the Davis Ramp. I believe it is the route Ted Davis soloed in the 70's. The other routes require what you described in the scrotal region.I talked with Jeff Thomas about when his new guide was to be out with alll the new stuff on Hood and it will be a while

Is it Bowline on a coil or colon on a boil? [ 03-10-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Uses for Bowline: if the rope is around something and you cant tie the first half of say a figure 8(the knot of choice).If you need a knot to come undone easy if it is to be loaded, It is an easy knot to tie with one hand. In an emergency it is super quick to tie. I will add that it is the only legal knot in the union construction trade. I have seen it used extensively with european climbers and alpine climbers in its double form. I have seen it fail after loosening to have tragic consequenses. If it is to be used as a harness tie in,double it, using the clove hitch to start instead of a double bight. It is a system I experimented with and is the only form of bowline I trust. As always any tie in knot should be backed up with a half grapevine and your partner should inspect it. Its your ass. [ 03-09-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

I sure dont regret dropping my skiis on Ranier that last time up.Boilerplate that is..w

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/mt/mt-comments.cgi?entry_id=34 Full beta now

[ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

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Kris, I emailed you about this weekend.w

Bungie Jumping helps.

A couple clear lessons from this horrendous accident is WEAR YOUR HELMUT, Always check your knot ,And I personally dont the like the bowline(double or single) for any tie in. My thoughts are with this guy , His family, and his great set of friends.w

Hey Stebbi, I remmember you from this summer on Sahale. How would you like to get out Sunday? I was the guy doin Buckner.w

Mt Bedal?

If I may speak for my friend Alasdair, I think he specificaly means the West ridge. And the question is , is the route better in may or June? Thanx.w

The Horse is a great place to start your ice vacation.It is cheap to stay in Golden and quick getting to the ice. Pretty nuts is the roadside classic and the crowds will agree, get there early or late. It will fit several parties but can suck when they bombard with ice or ropes. Riverview is fun,but can crowd out too.Essondale is tougher than the book suggests if the conditions are chandeliered.I think we did the Right and it was a 5 for sure.The other stuff to the left is scary looking. I think it is a great place to warm up for the stuff in Banff.Have fun

(Copious Fawning) We want to hear about it when you get back [ 02-04-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Great reports Mr.Skoog! It is refreshing to see this site used consructively.have you heard of the n.face of Buckner being skiied,and would it be better to first climb the easy rt(s.w.) up then ski the n.face then climb the n.face and return the easy way?

Hey Rep,It is not my style to discourage any ambition this side of suicide, but I will merely give the vitals on this route and let you decide.1. It has not seen a winter ascent according to the guide books, that doesnt mean it wont,just maybe not during a winter like this one. Last year would have been perfect and I would have been very interested myself2. I did the route with D.P. and I think you would find it intriuging enough in the summer.Recon time is never a waste3.I have been in the area in winter and it is most burly. Access and avvyies are difficult obstacles.4. I dont know how the subject of skiing came up , but to ski down would put you in a place where you would have to climb back up. Maybe you could climb the easy way up the south face and then skidown n.face to climb up the N. face then? The trip would be an expedition to put it lightly.5.No helicopter landings are allowed in the park.6. Good luck finding a willing partner.w [ 01-30-2002: Message edited by: wayne1112 ]

Being Wayne Wallace and having climbed three routes on the Spider, I hope the slide didnt wipe out the routes from end to end on the wall. The Spider is a wonderful and challenging face with great alpine climbing. The new Jeff Thomas guide should be out soon and topo the routes on the Spider as well as the best kept secret in the northwest.