wayne

Josh, keep in touch, we are all pulling for you, Wayne

The secret Monkey Tram leads right to the crag. Thanks for working on this project Blake, That place is amazing, and I hope lots of enthusiasts chip in on the work.

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Stronger-Faster-Healthier-Beyond/dp/149965667X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=undefined&sr=8-1&keywords=michael+layton+book

So my buddy Michael just released his second edition of his monster book: Climbing Faster, stronger, and healthier! Picture ALL of the "How to" books of climbing put into one! Also throw out all of the mundane beginner fundamentals. It is literally 12 books in one. Outstanding information in all of these areas: 1. Training Basics (my weakness) 2. Preparation and prevention, covers 99% of the body.( web discount codes for the other 1%) 3.4. Exercises. 5, 6. The Mental aspects of climbing and training. Cant get enough on this subject. 7,8. Health and nutrition. 9-12. More than you can ever imagine on planning skills technical equipment, and trickery. These sections validate the old saying "old age and treachery will overcome youth and skill, every time" You will be a way more savvy climber after these chapters! I am lucky man to have such great friends. I tend to be drawn to intelligent people. Though it seems unlikely to have an occasional conflict with such considerate and thoughtful friends, it can happen. I recall a heated argument that left me at odds with my best friend. I wanted to do The Fine Line on Elephants perch, but I did not want to have to lead all of its difficult pitches ( all 12 of them are difficult). I was lucky to find a person to swap leads at the base camp to replace my now upset friend. He was lucky that he found a partner as well to do an easier route. I felt bad for the move, but this is typical behavior for an ambitious nature/bastard. We later talked and made amends, but his argument had holes. I remember him saying: " Well, you have gotten better" (as a climber). My reply was, " well, ALL of climbing has gotten better" ..and continues to. It is up to each individual to either keep up, or enjoy the easier routes with people that stay at moderate difficulty climbs. I recall another argument I had with a younger friend. I do enjoy discovering when I take the wrong side of the agreement >in this case> We we talking about the harder routes and how after a climb like the Passenger gets done. I thought very few ascents occur annually say, 2-3. We later met that many at the Mazama store that had climbed it prior, or had climbed it that weekend. "Its the new thing" he explained, everybody's doing these routes that just a few years prior were thought to be sacred relics of difficulty! People, the day is here when the crowded classics are no longer just the 5.8s and 9s of yesteryear! They are your dream routes, and they are getting done all the time. Throw in the aging issue, finding partners and keeping up with the culture of the area, you have your work cut out for you. How about the safety issue? The more fit we are the safer and enjoyable the experience.You wouldn't even be looking for improvement and knowledge if you ware happy with where you are. It has been my pleasure to work on the several of the ideas in Michael's book, through trial and conversation over the years, It makes me proud to be friends with a person willing to take on the struggle of amassing such a great body of work. I hope it invigorates your passion for the the next big adventure as it has mine. There are so many reasons to want to be a more fit and efficient outdoor person. How about just the joy of sending some amazing hard route? Setting yourself up for that sick trad route? You're first - first ascent?, or just looking good at the lake? How about living longer and a more fulfilled life , because, you will only get this one. We spring forth from the Earth, and it is always calling us back. Enjoy Michaels new book, Wayne

Wonderful report, thanks. Amazing perseverance too

Wow, thats some out-there adventure you guys had! Thanks for the report, inspiring.

I love the fact that he used my joke review in the actual book! You will have to buy it to find out what was said though.

I gotta agree with the other approach, but you got up the Gully of Doom! and thats an amazing cirque to visit. Nice job and thanks for the report. It is a good line. BTW, the prior ascent was 2009.

Nice outing and descriptions! The upper impasse is how I did it the last couple of outings. Much easier.

Nice! My second trip to the cascades and we did a similar outing as yours in 3 days. After getting way off route on the approach to Price lake, we bivied at the lake , then did N ridge Nooksack, bivied at the base of it afterwards, then did Price on a day that got up to 100 degrees in Seattle! Summitted and all the way out to lake Ann where I left my bike. Drove back to Portland arriving at 3am, and worked the same day. Ouch, I know your pain. Labor Day weekend 1988.

Not at all, that is a cold wall. Might suffer on the approach though.

Stellar looking adventure!! on the list. And thanks for not sandbagging that approach.

Apocolyptic Wall FA

Oh yea, all the times Ive had to use my arial gymnastics in the mountains. sick.

that thing needs a tram.

What a mind-blowing effort on the part of these young stallions! How do you top this? trip report please. :edit:, found one! http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/

Sweeet! Unique place for sure. History lesson: When Tim and I did Cathedral ridge in late August of 91, I saw it for the first time and was obsessed with it. I named it RBP, and tried to get a trip going on it. Tim, however went and climbed it without me, and I was pretty upset. He made it up to me by teaming up with me on another Gillette ascent, the A4 aid route, and his Excaliber FA later though.

Yes, thanks for crossing the finish line it is an instant classic. Unfortunately I have a list of the corrections that I noticed in my sections: Page 69-70, photo credits and FA party named: "J. Lane". Correction to name: L. Brown, or Lane Brown. Pg 71 Steel Pillar, route 3a, FA party named "J. Lane". Correction : Mike Carville on page Pg 98, Descent Notes, Add the rappel route down N. Ridge from true summit. 1 rope gets you to single old bolt though. (Has the anchor been updated?) Page 102ish. Add the Castle Crags Route and the summertime classic: Castle Crags Direct. How did this get by us? Page 174 Route 17e: Davis Ramp ,FA: WW and Blake Osmansen Page 174 Route 17f: Black Widow, FA: WW and Tim Olson (Not Beau). How did this get by Tim?

Team Blond strikes again! I am glad you guys got this one! That is one I've had (only) my eyes on it for a while. Steph was trying to get in there too, but it took sum gumption I am sure to do this one. It looks a bit more fierce that I had imagined. Hats off again to your amazing accomplishments in the recent years! So.. now that Goodell approach goes, you should look at the sit start to Mongo!

Good Food: used to be good. Until the husband/ trained chef left in 05. I remember sitting in there with Josh after the NPick traverse, the wife was taking the news of his departure well, leaving it "all in the lords hands" > The 10 spawn were only concerned with crowding around the 1 computer in the side seating. It went down hill after that. the kids tried but must have lost interest, and moved away. Burger Barn is fine the Marblemount diner is about the best right now.

Yes, there was water flowing at the base of the ridge, snow up high too, and a camp just past Ingalls lake is good too except for the mosquitos that is.

Trip: Gorillas in the mist - Date: 7/14/2014 Trip Report: Jon and I enjoyed this route last weekend. Being hot it was the perfect choice as it gets no sun until later in the afternoon. It has the feel of a big-time Cascades route. If you haven't checked it out yet here is a link to mine, and the other reports I could find. I am hoping someone has info on the direct finish, thanks Gorillas

Terrific report Al! I recall the fire works we set off at Perfect pass a while back! Hope the ankle heals up quick.

In light of the new mountain profile coming out soon in a certain magazine, I wanted to share the images from shots that I and my friends took on 4 ascents in the Pickets Range. I dedicate this show to the memory of our amazing friend Chad Kellogg. A man worthy of the mountains, thanks sorry it is 19 minutes long however, get a beer or something https://vimeo.com/100275752 feel free to embed the link mods

Hey Jared! What have you been up to lately? Lemah Traverse?, Ive been wondering the same. Not optimistic about the rock quality myself, but would love to be surprised. I was always under the assumption that the route has not been done before. Go for it! and like Jason said, bring lots of rap cord.