Drederek

The distance required for something to be runout is inversely proportionate to difficulty and percieved reliability of the last piece for me. But it can cease to be runout when a jug or a good stance appears. Even a crappy piece can mitigate it a bit. Like Off said, you know it when you feel it.

Looking SW from atop mt Stone on 5/27 towards mt Skokomish

one thing I've learned is most of the damage I do to my legs is when I'm descending in a hurry, judging by pain the next day so I try to not hurry on the descent as much as possible. Sometimes you need to get down fast but if you have a little extra time its a lot easier on you if you moderate the pace a bit.

Time will indeed clean up our messes in the wilderness. But I appreciate those who go and help expedite the process.

Go to Fossil, write up a TR and tell us what you think. Among its other virtues Fossil is indeed dryer by far than index or the exits.

Why would anyone feel guilty?

yup was 2 feet deep around the corner.

We parked by the highway last summer, its not very far to the dirt road. Then you leave the trail from the highway and go down the dirt road a very short way to pick up the new trail.

From the bottom but only once they've stuck the crux dyno!

If we had parachutes and coulda got the door open we'd of made the last couple routes, we flew in over oly around 8. Seeya this week.

slot machine is nice crack, you can do more than just two pitches. And first two pitches of Birds of Prey are 5.8 also.

pitch four of Centerfold is pretty good too.

We found zero ticks at Duty and Warrior domes yesterday. Guess we got lucky.

Not a great pic but you can see theres still snow at both trailheads and some more further down today.

Whatever they use down at Yosemite sure polishes the shit out of the rock.

Well you're not wrong - this is cc.com. Everyone gets the business at some point. Just focus on the positives and learn to ignore the negatives. And checkout the post to tr ratio before you take someones comments too seriously.

Welcome to Olympia, Nate. PM Off for particulars, the crag is in his front yard.

Today you could drive to within a mile or so of the "lower ellinor trailhead. It'll be a while before you can drive much further than that, theres 2+' of snow at the th.

If you like Swains guide you should get Brocks, they are both likely to send you on an unanticipated adventure. Plus you can rip out the pages with the climbs you want to do on them and leave the rest behind without a single qualm.

thx, it'll prolly melt out fast now.

I've climbed it more than couple times when the first pitch was damp. Can only remember the first pitch of Lovin Arms being wet once.

So how much snow is on the road now?

look in olympics forum, 5th or sixth topic down. I talked to some locals when I went and they said it was a bit looser in the winter there - a bit slow to dry out.

Finally broke my aluminum crampons this year, stepping down onto a rock. The connecting bar broke cleanly on either side of an adjustment hole. The field fix was easy. Just tied em together with some string. They were about 5-6 years old and I doubt they had much more than 30 to 40 4 or 5 mile trips on them, mostly on crusty snow. Got them welded at the shop our company uses and they broke again next time out, very near to the weld which made me think the heat of the weld somehow weakened the Al. Meanwhile Camp had sent me steel connecting bars, saying thats what they recommend in conjunction with the lightweight boots I normally use (Asolo Stynger). They thought it was the flexing that broke the bar. This agrees with my recollection of stepping down onto what I thought was a flat rock and stumbling just a bit. When I got them I thought I would be busting the teeth off but over the years I have been rougher and rougher on them and I have had no other problems. I kinda doubt you could bend them - they just snap.