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johnsonjj22

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About johnsonjj22

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  • Birthday 11/30/1999

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  1. Elwha Wall access hindered

    Not to my knowledge it's not. The blasting should be done, and if you stay on the new trail and take the fork, you won't be crossing onto park property. In other words, it should be fine. However, winter isn't the best time to visit the El-Wall as sandstone can get a little unpredictable in we conditions. See the map: http://goo.gl/bQNxG
  2. Elwha Wall access hindered

    Yeah, I noticed that the other day myself. K. Rose bushwhacked a new trail thats marked with surveyor tape. I'll run out there in the next few days and GPS the new route.
  3. A major wind storm blew my tent from it's anchors while I was summiting Rainier. The tent blew into a crevasse with 2 sleeping bags, three mattresses, a Kindle and misc gear. The tent was a green Vaude Galaxy. I went up to retrieve the tent this weekend but ran into somebody who said that it had already been pulled from the crevasse by some guides. Apparently, it's common practice for guides to go checking crevasses after wind storms. Any information leading to the retrieval of this gear would be very helpful. Thanks!
  4. Elwha Wall access hindered

    1 mile? You could ride a mountain bike too, especially when the trail is cleared a bit more.
  5. Royal Basin Conditions

    Thanks for the update. Deception is a great climb when it's snow covered.
  6. Elwha Wall access hindered

    Map: http://goo.gl/bQNxG The easiest way to there is to park at the Olympic Discovery Trail parking on 112 (marked on map). The map trail is 50% right, I had to fill in the details because my phone GPS stopped working. Once you're on the trail is pretty obvious. There is still some bushwhacking but a well established trail lies underneath the growth and is easy to follow.
  7. Elwha Wall access hindered

    Andy, yep - it's me, Jeremy. The actual deconstruction is slated to start in Sept, at which point the lake will be gradually drawn down more and more over the next few years.
  8. Trip: Mt. Deception - Standard Date: 7/2/2011 Trip Report: Started on Thursday at noon and reached the Upper Royal Basin by 18:30. We were slowed down due to some routefinding issues, slushy snow and snow bridges. Camped just below the standard route start on the E face of Deception. Started climb at 06:00 on VERY good snow that froze over night. Made it to 6600' before partner, who was using micro-spikes, got sketched due to exposure and increasing steepness. Watched another climber solo the honeymoon route, then downclimb same route (he apparently wasn't aware of the standard route). Early season is definitely the time to climb Deception to avoid scree slopes or wet snow. Gear Notes: Crampons and Ice Axe required for now. Small rope and pickets depending on your comfort level with exposure. Approach Notes: Two major avalanches on the approach trail. Orange surveyor tape should mark the way back to the trail after crawling over some logs (though in practice, it wasn't placed very intuitively) Snow melting very fast. Constant snow above 4600'. 5-7' of snow at Royal Lake, probably more in Upper Royal Basin.
  9. Elwha Wall access hindered

    The lower Elwha damn removal has officially begun. Because of this, access to the lower dam has been closed. The normal approach route to the wall is no longer viable. There is rumor of a new approach from the nearby Olympic Discovery Trail but I have yet to look for it. Until I find out otherwise, access to the wall will involve some bushwhacking - at least until a new approach trail is built.
  10. Safety factor on Carabiners

    Check out this: http://www.dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=5 to see nylon/dyneema runners fail and at what load. A fall factor of 1 (distance of half the length of the runner) on dyneema generates 23kn of force. The Owal oval 'biner might be okay, but I've seen oval 'biners rated at 18kn.
  11. Olympics guidebook now online

    I emailed the commissioners and this is response so far: "There has been some talk about several possible trail routes off of the ODT, to take advantage of both the views of the dam removal process and for more permanent North / South routes from the Straits to the Mountains. I’m not aware of any definite plans and, or money being put out there to get them done, yet. Maybe Rich James, our ODT Guru can help with your question." -- Jim Jones, Jr. I will update with any new info I get.
  12. Olympics guidebook now online

    Yep, Exactly on the directions. The rock is actually really solid, but you do have to walk up from the road over a talus drainage and through trees about 100yds. For me, living so close to the Elwha wall, it's hard to drive out there, but for others who live in Sequim and further eastward, it's closer and more viable. Obviously, living on the Olympic Peninsula, we don't get the great rock that exists in the cascades. This is more like the Elwha Wall only closer to Sequim and comprised of granite.
  13. Olympics guidebook now online

    I talked to Scott Underwood, who can be contacted via the above mentioned FB group and this is the beta he was able to give: There are currently 5 bolted routes, with more probably on the way. When you approach the main wall, from left to right these are the routes: 1. Unnamed proj. ~5.10 no FA 2. Scornacopia ~5.11a/b FA Scott Underwood 3. Myboyohurts proj. ~5.12+ 4. Mossness Monster ~5.10a FA Caleb 5. Onderfall 5.10c FA Scott Underwood How to get there... It'll be better if I post GPS coords 47°53'17.07"N 123° 7'56.38"W The road heads up to the Camp Handy/Tubal Cain mine, but you take a left fork before heading down to the upper Dungeness campground.
  14. Olympics guidebook now online

    I wasn't aware of bolts being pried off with crowbars, but I'm a newb and just trying to help keep the info up to date.
  15. Olympics guidebook now online

    Here are some pics: http://jjohnson.photoshelter.com/gallery/Rock-Climbing/G00009vlj.SfvcuM/ There are a group of guys maintaining that wall and can be reached via a Facebook group Solid Rock Climbers: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=200725845214 A bit has changed since the book was published. Some of the bolts protecting routes were rotten and subsequently removed, making those routes a bit harder. A few new routes too. Also, a few of us (mostly them, not so much me yet) are developing a new area near Tyler Peak.
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