ScottP

I can dig that.

Well then, here's my parting contribution to this lovely bit of dueling dogma.

so what's your point, fidel?

Well, really, I was merely drawing a correlation between Trasks comment ("I'd do what my President told me to do; regardless of who's in office." ) and the German public's mindset in the mid to late 1930's. Though, DFA's interpretation certainly doesn't fall far from my tree of thinking. When I look at pictures of Dick Cheney, I can't help but see a henchman. And, you're right Trask, I don't accept any particular faith.

That's probably what the people in this audience were thinking.

I'm sorry, but this is, imo, the DUMBEST argument for retrobolting. Or imagine this, the weeney climber could just not climb the routes with a little boldness in them.

I find the term "best" to be somewhat limiting since there are so many good crack pitches that are all so unique. Whether it be finger stacks, perfect hands, rattley fists or arm bars, or some grand combination of them all in the same pitch, what, to me, makes a great crack pitch boils down to the feeling I get when I'm in the midst of a good series of jams. Something else that no one has mentioned is the visual impact of a crack; some cracks just seem so much more of an artistic impression than others.

I thought about Toxic Shock a little bit before adding it to my list. The reason I did is it gives me that feeling you get when you sink a particularly comfortable jam and you get that oddly relaxed, fuzzy feeling.

I guess a link would have helped...

...that I pieced together from the TerraServer.

That whole Domeland Wilderness climbing scene is like that. There's some way out, kooky folks hanging out back in there. I met a guy at Elephant Dome while on a indica-haze tour of the area when I was a sprite that would lead anything you pointed him at. I finally quit belaying him for fear of the carnage that sure to end up at my feet. Besides that, he was a great guy to party with, given that he had more dope than I did and had climbed just about everywhere.

Is there 'one' best? Index: Breakfast of Champs-perfect hands (for me) Toxic Shock (ditto) Heart of the Country-pitch 3 Davis-Holland-2nd pitch Battered Sandwich Jap Gardens-1st short pitch Leavenworth: Bo Derek-wild Outer Space-5th pitch Givler's-2nd pitch Deb's Crack-fingers to fist Psychopath variation on Iconoclast blahblahblah...

I can second Squamish and City Of Rocks and I'll add the Needles in CA. Friendliest people would have to be Australians and Scots. It's been my experience that they know how to have fun and don't mind who's having it with them.

I'm not trying to be judgemental or second-guess or anything, just really curious: When did it become the norm to not have a climber tied into each end of the rope? Or do I just come from a place and time that is unique regarding this practice?

I believe there is a David Hannum quote that applies around here somewhere...hmmm...oh, here it is...yep... "There's a sucker born every minute." Oops, I forgot the [ 11-26-2002, 04:54 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: This only confirms: Cats would kill and eat us if they could! Actually, they do...

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: (snip) Those big rings on the Great Northern Slab at Index are good anchors I always figured somebody is going to be extra surprised when one or both of those pop.

quote: Originally posted by mwills: anywhere but IOWA But you've got the baked mud climbing of Keppler-Palisades...

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: quote:Originally posted by danielpatricksmith: Biggest dissapointment was not getting to meet Scot'teryx. Just go to Cascade Crags and if you're lucky, he might even be there to give you a belay test That would be pretty cool; getting my belay skills checked by the poster child of gumbyness. I remember gettng a belay test at the Seattle VW a few years back. The guy had me feed rope, take in rope, give the proper verbal belay signals, etc. Then he simulated a fall by pulling on the rope. I locked off and waited for further instructions. He looked at me with an "...And?" expression on his face. I shrugged and he said, "Now what do you say?" Not knowing what else to say, I responded, "Get back up there you pussy?" He didn't think that was too funny, but I passed anyway.

quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: Scott, I didn't write that you nitwit. (snip) Your name is on it.

quote: Originally posted by RuMR: Watch out for axle grease!! That's right! Better add a butane torch to the gear list.

I don't remember using anything more than nuts and cams on TC. Bring a variety of hooks for Green Drag-on.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What's so easy about it Are you judging from reputation? What if I cant climb 5.10 but weigh 98lbs and think A4 is easier. 36 pitches of A4 could be easier Also how was I to read your mind about using the word "wall" In rock climbing vernacular, the term "wall" usually is a shortened term for "big wall" which denotes "big wall techniques" meaning a substantial use of aid, hauling supplies for an extended stay, etc. As for your A4 anaolgy, hard aid is as much a head game as it is a technical ability. Even 98 pounders can find A4 to be quite hard, when they are looking at 36 pitches of potential substantial falls. Since the Nose isn't that hard, I don't see how your analogy applies anyway. Right on. I still call you a wank for saying it's easy if you have not climbed it and hauled the pigs. I can sit here and say that the many climbs are easy at the comfort of my fatmaker chair Compare the "Big Wall" ratings of the routes on El Cap and you will see that it is one of the easiest. That's all I was saying. As for Big Walls in general, there's nothing easy about them. They are nothing but self-induced forced labor.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What's so easy about it Are you judging from reputation? What if I cant climb 5.10 but weigh 98lbs and think A4 is easier. 36 pitches of A4 could be easier Also how was I to read your mind about using the word "wall" In rock climbing vernacular, the term "wall" usually is a shortened term for "big wall" which denotes "big wall techniques" meaning a substantial use of aid, hauling supplies for an extended stay, etc. As for your A4 anaolgy, hard aid is as much a head game as it is a technical ability. Even 98 pounders can find A4 to be quite hard, when they are looking at 36 pitches of potential substantial falls. Since the Nose isn't that hard, I don't see how your analogy applies anyway.

Mt Cook, New Zealand: south side vs north side