ScottP

quote: Originally posted by iain: "There's an old saying in Washington -- I know it's in Texas, probably in Washington...that says, smoot me once, shame on......shame on you. Smoot me...you can't get smooted again." Yeah, The Shrub tries to spew something outside of his speech writer's parameters and ends up quoting The Who. Fuckin' hilarious.

quote: Originally posted by G-spotter: Are there any via ferrata in the Enchantments? I think it would be good place to maybe build a few so that more hikers can experience these beautiful summits. There's this one that takes a rather circuitous route up the south side of Little Annapurna; It's the way those in the know circumvent The Tool.

quote: Originally posted by erik: (snip) then again chalk is the true root of sweaty hands in the first place....plus it looks nasty on the rock and is a waste of money [/QB] when it's upper 90's-low 100's in desert and sub-desert climbing environments, lot's of water and lot's of chalk tend to be pretty valuable tools of the trade.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It's hopped up on goofballs, goofball. Both are commonly used, though a search on Roget's II got: "hopped-up" ADJECTIVE: Slang. Stupefied, intoxicated, or otherwise influenced by the taking of drugs: drugged "hepped-up" and "hepped up" No results. "hep"- slang for groovy, rad, far-out, bitchin, boss, 23 skidoo, etc.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: 16 men on a dead man's chest me boys! From RL Stevenson's Treasure Island. There is a small Island in the British Virgin Islands called Dead Chest Island. According to legend, Bluebeard the pirate dumped 16 mutinous crewmen on this island with nothing but a bottle of rum.

quote: Originally posted by pope: Yeah, if you're thinking of doing the E Butt on Middle Cathedral in the Valley, go left and do the DNB instead. Longer, a little harder, more commiting and a lot less crowded. Is that "climber's left" or "skier's left"? I meant to say,"...go right and do the DNB..."

That latest Dreamer thread and all the talk about stuck ropes got me to thinking about the nightmare that is truly stuck ropes. One left a friend and I to spend the frigid night after winter solstice in Solar Slab Gully, Red Rocks, NV (after a bad decision about the proper descent from Black Orpheus.) Nothing I hate worse.

That latest Dreamer thread and all the talk about stuck ropes got me to thinking about the nightmare that is truly stuck ropes. One left a friend and I to spend the frigid night after winter solstice in Solar Slab Gully, Red Rocks, NV (after a bad decision about the proper descent from Black Orpheus.) Nothing I hate worse.

quote: Originally posted by dbconlin: OK, how about how many of the 50 classic climbs in North America (not to be confused with the newer 50 favorite climbs) have you done? I haven't seen the list, actually, but I know I've done at least one: the Petit Grepon in Rocky Mt. Nat. park. It was pretty spectacular and not very hard. How about y'all? Any recommendations? Yeah, if you're thinking o fdoing the E Butt on Middle Cathedral in the Valley, go left and do the DNB instead. Longer, a little harder, more commiting and a lot less crowded.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: quote:Originally posted by Dru: He lost the nail but not the toe. Speaking of necessities, novelties, and plain uselessness, where do toenails fall in this categorization? Seems like all they do is get in the way and hurt in rock shoes and boots etc. Is there something you can paint your toe with after a nail falls off so another one will not replace it? I'm thinking that the nail protects the sensitive tissue underneath (keeping it sensitive) and that the sensitivity on the tops of your toes allows you more cognition and therefore better response to what is going on with your feet. In short, it makes you more balanced and coordinated in the foot department. Just my thinking.

quote: Originally posted by chucK: (snip description) Am I making any sense? Perfectly. There was no mattp'safesexroute when I was last up there. (Sounds like maybe Erik too.) We rapped the gully to get down and whacked down to one of the creeks we had passed cause there was no real rap route down the front side. (This thread is starting to sound like a Columbo episode.)

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I drilled in some new bolts for the mounties That was very kind of you.

quote: Originally posted by erik: scott

quote: Originally posted by erik: scott pitch 5 is the same... according to mattp most of the bolts were replaced and i do not think it has had that many added... also the last two pitches are new...the old goes up and right of that corner...the new ones go up and left.... Okay, I went up and right on the last two (there was a corner to my left.) So, no bolts were added to pitch 5? If that is the case, I'd take stemming the groove over the slab to the left anyday. (I spent a shitload of time digging the grass out of the bottom of that thing trying in vain to find something to hang an RP in.)

Does anybody have an idea how many bolts have been added to this route since it was first put up. I ask because when I climbed it last (about 10 years ago) there were way less bolts than Tom mentions in this post. Seems that the character of the climb is quite different now. Example: Pitch 5 with the slick groove. There were no bolts until you were way out which made the groove the "obvious" way to go. Another example was the last two pitches (above the pitch above the blue crack); these were pretty much solo pitches due to the extreme lack of placements (I remember no bolts.) I'm not complaining, just curious. [ 09-26-2002, 03:19 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Poseur: WTF, the guy goes for sail to Catalina and winds up in Central America??? hmmmmmm.....maybe he should stick to swimming pools and water wings. If you've ever been in a storm with big seas in a small (30' and under) sailboat, you know how fragile you really are. His ending up in C. America wasn't his doing. The guy survived a major ordeal and did it with more than a bit of pluck. Your armchair judgements show a bit of ignorance.

quote: Originally posted by salbrecher: quote:Originally posted by monkeyboy: 1984 George Orwell...You will never look at security cameras the same. I second this book. If you second something twice, does that make it a fourth?

"A Walk in the Woods" and "A Sunburnt Country" Bill Bryson-Humorous trip essays of the Appalachian Trail and touring Australia respectively. "Perfect Storm" Sebastian Junger (The description of the physiology of drowning is pretty riveting" "Endurance" The story of the Shackleton epic in Antarctica "The Killer Angels" Jeff Shaara -The story of the battle of Gettysburg from the perspective of the officers who commanded both armies. [ 09-20-2002, 03:03 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

Ditto the walking on snow thing... and Poles add a new dimension to standing glissades.

Bivied at the notch (killer view from the notch ), but there are some nice ledges on the N side of the little notch at the base of the ridge. Dawn start, at the car before dark. Descended the route w/ mixed rap and downclimbing. [ 09-19-2002, 06:42 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

I once had a partner who took almost two hours to lead the first pitch of Saber and then he backed off of the move before the ledge because he ran out of gear. This was the same guy that had previously climbed the Nose twice! I've waited for him to get his shit together way too many times.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: I am not sure if that is what I saw. I hikeed up the old SCP trail and it might be it but not sure. I remember the pocket glaciers being bigger and the slabs larger as well. I think I was looking at something else? Maybe to the left? or something else completely. I've been a ways up the SC trail and I've seen a lot of granite up in there to the south and east of Three Fingers. You can see it from the Summit of the latter also. Kind of up and left as you are going in... This picture makes me think that the headwaters of Squire Creek is just one big granite bowl. [ 09-16-2002, 07:27 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

Hijackers surprised to find themselves in hell...

And the winner is... quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: Just loo...