ScottP

I twould be a huge waste of time refuting your list of statements, but I gotta step in on #2... If your 8 year old has been exposed to the media to the level you describe, you aren't doing your job as a parent. BTW-Bummer about never getting any until the end of your college career.

quote: Originally posted by iain: layton I'm not sure what your image is but it's disgusting It looks like the Jeep from the old Popeye cartoons doing some funky pushups.

quote: Originally posted by Son of Caveman: That's rather disturbing to say the least. My four year old thought it rocked!

quote: Originally posted by mattp: Some of the hard-cores who frequent this site have indicated that tape is aid, and only whiners with poor technique use it. To some degree, I agree with that idea because I find that if I am totally in control, I generally don't rip my hands to pieces. (snip) "Blood is an indicator of poor technique"

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:Originally posted by Off White: DFA, I think it does have to be an alpine route. Smith does have some seriously hard sport stuff, but its not quintessential NW, which historically speaking must involve more fear and suffering. OK ... Vicious Fish. In July, midday, in an 8000 meter suit, wool mittens, a swim cap, snowshoes, and only pitons for pro, belayed by the first available tourist from the parking lot. or the inverse...the Index peaks traverse wearing lycra, a muscle tee and bouldering slippers with only draws and a 9.5 for pro while being belayed by your non-climbing girlfriend during a raging late winter squall.

quote: Originally posted by Off White: Captions would be nice for the climbing shots. I don't know Index very well, which route is this? Great shot. That's a nice shot of the first pitch of the Zipper.

That's a nice shot of the first pitch of the Zipper.

What with over a century of climbing history, climbing in the Cascade Mountains has it's share of climbing lore: Legendary bushwacks, wills written on shirt cuffs, Ted Bundy being the first to officially drive across the N Cascades Highway.... Of them all, I'd have to say the first ascent of the Willis Wall, as a solo, by Charlie Bell ranks right up there with the best. What makes it such a classic tale in my mind is the fact that when Bell told of his climb, nobody believed him. When he learned of the extent of this disbelief, he went back and climbed the route again (still solo). Only this time he took a camera. Still nobody believed him. It wasn't until Wickwire and Bertulis inadvertently climbed the route and brought back pictures that matched Bell's was it official that he had been the first up the Willis Wall, and solo to boot.

quote: Originally posted by neversummer: To the base of index town wall from highway 2. Click on the red word "this" in my last post. If that doesn't work for you let me know.

quote: Originally posted by neversummer: Well if your gonna rag on it so bad, how bout offering up some good directions... What do you want to know? (BTW, it's my opinion that Al was jerking your chain (being sarcastic) with that link to Scott's page...Now, if he had linked you to this page, I might not be thinking so. [ 11-15-2002, 08:36 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

quote: Originally posted by Al Pine: everything you need to know about Index I try not to be negative about such things, especially toward someone who is so admittedly new to the sport, but that page is one big clusterfuck of confusing information. What is especially bad is that the topo, with the correct info is posted right there on the page.

quote: Originally posted by Dumpster Diver: I know the grease culprits. Who cares though? It's not like you can do anything about it. It's water under the bridge. It's an interesting bit of local climbing lore; like the pig heads, porn on Library Ledge and the bolting/chopping of Dan's Dreadful Direct.

quote: Originally posted by Thinker: looks like it could be fun here, too. "Can't you smell that smell? Lynyrd Skynyrd notwithstanding - when you are out on a multiday climb, how do you deal with the smell? You know, the one that wafts through the tent when you sit cross legged in front of your partners? How does one minimize that skanky odour?" Don't shit or piss in your pants?

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by Lambone: lesson learned... 1st-don't backclean your RURPS and #1 heads... 2nd-leave the bolt above the anchor clipped... I understand the relevancy of #2 but why #1? Are you saying that when they pull the reduce the load like a screamer? Well-placed RURPs and 'heads have been known to catch short falls.

quote: Originally posted by RuMR: [QB(snip of Pope's comments)Pope, no comment on the validity of Smoot's story. The only reason i posted that was it mentioned Alan by name and thought that might be where Scottp got his erroneous facts from. Regarding alan, again, he wouldn't do that (grease the crack to stop a first ascent) and wasn't even in the state when it happened.[/QB] I have read Smoot's story, and what I read as Watts' involvement was written soon after the purported ascent. Again, I can't produce the piece, so I stand corrected and apologize to Alan for even mentioning it. "erroneous facts" hmmm... isnt' that one of those bovine idiot thingys?

I heard it was this guy.

quote: Originally posted by iain: what the hell is that? an artist's rendition of robotron 2014? The image address: http://usembassy.state.gov/afghanistan/wwwjna01.jpg Would lead me to believe rbw is correct. Probably a US propoganda poster designed to show the Afghanis that growing opium poppies is equated with death by spray (?).

quote: Originally posted by RuMR: Scottp What are you talking about? Alan Watts rubbing axle grease in the crack??????? It was the freaking stooge locals that couldn't handle out-o-towners f'ng up their world... Reach into your pants and untwist your undies... I wasn't there, so I don't know anything more than I'm sure I read in one of the rags that it was Alan Watts. If you say it was the locals, I stand corrected.

For all you Chronic Sprayers...the last line is pretty much the Grail, as it were. [ 11-13-2002, 05:19 PM: Message edited by: ScottP ]

I remember reading about how Alan Watts tried to close City Park with a bunch of axle grease. quote: Originally posted by Dru: How many people made free ascents of City Park anyways. Todd and Hugh Herr are the only two I've ever heard of.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: quote:Originally posted by ScottP: quote:Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Doesnt the nose of el crap face south? Yep, and it's one of the easiest wall routes on the formation. How many times you done it? Anyway it may be but it sure took a long time before El Crap was climbed. It's so "easiest" not even the Hubers have lined up for the free ascent Notice I said "wall" route as opposed to the more difficult "free climb" that it is. As for future free ascents, I don't think there are a lot of guys out there willing to risk getting spanked by a route first freed by a woman. To much of the ol' ego at stake.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: To Bolt and Just Do it both face west . But then the Aggro Wall faces east ... What is one to make of all this? That sport climbs have little to do with moountain morphology?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Doesnt the nose of el crap face south? Yep, and it's one of the easiest wall routes on the formation.

quote: Originally posted by Muffy The Wanker Sprayer: (snip) Disney is EVIL It's like KID CRACK More so than you might expect...

A good friend of my dad did a stint in the navy during WWII. He spent one late afternoon over beers with my dad and I talking about his experience on the fabled aircraft carrier Yorktown during the battle of Midway. As you probably know, this carrier was badly damaged during the battle and eventually sank. This guy ended up in the water with hundreds of others for several hours while all kinds of shit rained down around him; pieces of planes, shrapnel, spent rounds. He was eventually picked up by another ship as the battle raged. Within minutes of boarding the rescue vessel, it was hit and sunk by Japanese torpedo bombers. The survivors where picked up after several more hours passed watching the shit fly all round him. He said that before the battle of Midway, he believed in god. During the time spent in the water he came to believe that no supreme being could be so cruel. Ever since that day I listened to him tell his story, Veterans Day has never seemed like just a day off to me.