Stefan

Fricken amazing just to hear this.

I know it's a PIA. But the Mowich seems the most logical and I don't know why you have to wait....take a bike with a trailer. Park your car at the Paul Peak trailhead. Ride your bikes as far as you can ride the bikes up. (End of June you can get to the lake.) Climb. Come down Tahoma Glacier or other side and have somebody pick you up. Get your butt back to Mowich lake by either walking Wonderland trail (base of Tahoma Glacier). Or have friend who picks you up on other side, borrow his bike with a Burley trailer, and ride it to Mowich Lake to pick up your buddy(ies) bikes.

It came from the Bulgers. In addition, I have been told the Washington State Geographic Names Board now names peaks with over 400' of prominence (I guess it is their rule too.). Just becuase a peak is NOT named now on a map does not mean it will not be named in the future. I guess someday all those peaks will be named....so long as Washington stays a state.

True dat! BTW....I have been up Isolation and Newhalem peaks in a day round trip. They are not that difficult.

Mountie, thanks for the heads up. But please also update the climbing schedule you provide on this website you guys have: http://larch.forest.net/mountaineers/FMPro?-Db=Trips98_.fp4&-Format=trip_schedule.htm&-View I am trying to be accomodating to you by avoiding the areas you have scheduled. I know other people use this too to avoid you the Mountie groups. When I do a search for April 2004 your group does not have the Icicle Creek area scheduled. I believe the climb schedule the Mountaineers post is very helpful. Please keep it updated.

Have any of you actually and really used a prussik in a crevasse rescue? They really suck and they are time consuming. They really are. The way to get around the problem of the prussik and the stichtplate is to use an ascender. It's easier. It works better.

Dang. This is sexy!

I am still amazed at anybody doing Nooksack Tower. Congratulations!

Climb: Davis Peak-SE Ridge Date of Climb: 4/10/2004 Trip Report: Davis Peak was made by Greg K., Dave C., Brian H., and myself on Saturday. After getting some great information from Don G. on his ascent up this peak a couple of years ago, I thought this would be a good easy outing. We parked at a pullout on the north side of the highway just before mile marker 151(?) and started moving by 7:30. Don G. had told us about a trail, but we could not find it; however, on the way down we found the trail--it starts at the furthest east end of the pullout. We walked underneath the lower powerlines for a little while before we soon headed up to the upper powerlines and into the forest. Brush is unpleasant underneath the powerlines and improves once you enter the forest. After the upper powerlines we ascended in a generally NE direction towards point 4162, where we always had a stream within hearing distance to the west of us. Going up was generally brush free but had some instances of vine maple in patches. From point 4162 we headed west towards the 5500+ foot plateau on the ridge and ran into one area where we basically had to climb a tree becuase we didn't investigate further enough to the north or to the south of where we were at; however, on the way down there were plenty of opportunities to avoid tree climbing as we found out. We made the plateau and had a looksy at the south ridge. Don G. had told me the ridge was class three and from our vantage we thought the ridge was covered in snow with cornices. I was not mentally ready to do a class 3 ridge with cornices and snow on it and this potential worried me. We traversed the main basin without the aid of snowshoes and made the south ridge just north of point 5872. The ridge began easily on class 3 dry ledges staying below the crest on the east side. For some reason Brian, Dave, Greg, and I thought we all saw easier lines to make the ridge proper. It turned out that Brian and Dave took class 4ish to 5ish lines while Greg and I continued on easier fashion and hit a steep snow wall to make the ridge. Brian and Dave decided they were not going to take their return route on the way back. After getting to the ridge we found out the western side of the ridge was snowfree and now only class 2. My worries were over and I was quite relieved that we would definitely make the summit on such a fine day. One minor class 3 section was encountered just before the false summit. We reached the summit at 1:30 and found the register signed by about 6 parties since Dallas Kloke's 1971 original signage including the last party of Don G., Natala G., Tom C., and their friend from the east coast. There was no pencil available so many more parties have ascended and not signed in than is present. Pretty nice views. We left around 2:15 and rappelled the section where Greg and I had ascended the last section up to the ridge where the snow was the steepest. This took a little bit of time with all four of us but still went smoothly. The snow had become "mushy alfredo sauce" like and required the use of snowshoes for the traverse of the basin and back to the forest. We followed our same exact way back to the car hitting the trail that Don G. told us about below the lower powerlines and the car at 6:45. Was this the prospector's trail before the highway? We then went to Tom and Connies place in Marblemount where they treated us to beers, margaritas, and nachos next to their innagural fire pit. It was a great time! Notes: Snow line started around 3800 feet on the south facing treed slope and I do not recommend skis for this area.

Pretty much. If I think somebody is going to fall on a slope behind me then I carry the slack to anticipate the fall. If I think somebody might fall in a crevasse, no matter what the angle whether up or down, then no slack. The question then becomes why would I be on a slope without a picket between me and my partner? There are places where there are crevasses or no crevasses but you still have the rope between you and your partner(s) such as the upper parts of Rainier. One area you might be all familiar with is the DC proper section on the standard route of Rainier. I am on a rope there, there are no crevasses, I don't use pickets in that area, but the fall potential is there.

I agree you are going to get wacked being the lead dude from the partner who falls below you. But, would you rather SURPRISE the lead partner with being yanked off his feet OR would you want your lead partner to have some ample warning (by the yelling) so he can TRY to get into self arrest BEFORE he is yanked? When I am in the lead, I want a 1/2 second BEFORE being surprised by total yank behind me becuase if a yank comes from behind me, my body will more than likely be yanked onto its back. If I get a 1/2 second from someone yellling "falling" then I will be facing into the slope which is much easier to self arrest. I would rather take my chances at potentially stopping a team fall than being part of the fall. You will definitely be part of the fall if your rope is taught, whereas you will have a chance of not having a team slide IF there is some slack AND the person falling yells "falling" loud enough to be heard. Downhill = always taught Flat glacier = always taught

Here is the best measurement information besides personel opinions: http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/CLISNO It seems the snowpack is just below normal in the northern half of Washington and above average in the souther half of Washington.

That does not make sense. If you do not have ANY slack you will yank your partner immediately and it will not matter if you yell falling becuase your partner will be falling too with you simultaneously. I think it is important to have some slack when you are going on the uphill side. WHY? When you fall, you immediately yell "FALLING", thereby allowing your partner to react and getting into a self arrest position BEFORE he is yanked by you. IF YOU HAVE NO SLACK AND YOU FALL YOU WILL YANK YOUR PARTNER BEFORE THEY GET INTO SELF ARREST. On the glacier and it is relatively flat, then definitely no slack. The rope cutting into the crevasse lip will more than likely stop a fall. On the downhill side, no slack. The back people will see what is happening and should react even faster than somebody yelling "Falling". However, if the back person falls, then that person should yell, "Falling" and that will be ample time for everyone to go into self arrest and get crampons in the face. But rule #1: Don't fall.

Interesting thread read in some parts. Responses to other people's opinions is quite junior, and that is why I don't bother with the "spray" section....but this topic kind of caught me off guard because of Tele's actual working environment. Be safe Tele_nut. Believe in what you do. I expect more actions like what happened to continue to happen. This type of "revengeful" unlawfullness seems to happen in many communities around the world. Does anybody remember the Hutus and Tutsis? It is a common theme when there is no justice system--and a human emotion to take revenge when something negative happens to you as a result of another person's actions. I wonder if some U.S. soldiers are harassing residents by constant raids, giving them disrespect.....I don't know and never will know due to the tight media restrictions they are currently giving. The actions by a few people do not represent the whole. There are some bad apples in Fallujah. There are some bad apples in the U.S. military.

Bump. They are talking of opening the road on April 8th....but it could be later.

Road is now open to Barlow Pass from Granite Falls.

Who were the guys who made it to a significant elevation on the Abruzzi Ridge on K2 in 1937 or 1938 - even climbing the section where there is a wire ladder now. I think it was one or two years before Fritz Weissner attempted the climb. My mind thinks it is Paul Petzoldt. If it is him, then he is the most influential.

The hike into Boulder Lake is the standard approach for Frostbite-Weber. I think Beckey describes it that way too.

Looks like a great time. Nice!

It is not just that Saddam tried to kill Dubyas dad. It also has to do with these events: 1. Senior Bush was elected OUT of office and had only one term while Saddam remained in power. I believe there was some jealousy there. 2. I remember Schwarzkoppf said how "they made a mistake" meaning himself and the White House cabinet in the original war made a mistake by not demanding the ousting of Saddam Hussein in the agreements after the invasion. Senior Bush knew this mistake, so he told his son to clean up his mistake. 3. I do believe there have been only "FATHER" and "SON" talks about all these instances without anyone around -- not even their spouses. And it is my belief that Father told son: "If you do anything as President, get that S.O.B. Saddam" That is why Iraq has been number one on the White House agenda and always was. 9-11 just proved to be an excuse.

Good write up on the financials and what they mean Don. However, I slightly disagree with this statement you made: I believe the objective of any busines has to be positive cash flow, becuase a business can be profitable and still go bankrupt....

The Hardest Routes in the Cascades are routes I would never do becuase I do not have the balls to do it. Here is one. Mt. Triumph - North Face Central Rib

Now I know you know nothing about this topic--but have strong opinions. Peak fees have gone up for Nepal / Pakistan becuase those governments want cash directly to their coffers. If there were no guided expeditions, then peaks fees would still have risen becuase the governments still want cash. The goverments of Pakistan and Nepal have increased peak fees because the people who want to climb these peaks can afford to pay peak fees. If rich people didn't infect this part of the world with their greed for trophies, there wouldn't be peak fees. And for all of you that "know what you're talking about, cuz' you've been there", would it be possible for me to get one of your T-shirts? Men's medium? Sorry, I don't work for MM anymore, so I cannot get you a tshirt. In part your are probably right about peak fees...if nobody ever climbed the 8000m peaks then the peak fees would not rise. Most of the people that climb 8000m peaks ARE NOT guided. I would say less than 10% are probably guided expeditions. When you go to an 8000m mountain you will see Koreans, Russians, South Americans, and the largest contingent--the Europeans on each of these mountains. Most of these groups are NOT guided. Hell, the Russians have no money--which I have no idea how they do it. The Koreans, and Italians get paid to climb, so why would they want to guide? It is the demand of climbing these peaks by alpine enthusiasts that have risen the costs.....guided expeditions are not the result of increased fees.

Now I know you know nothing about this topic--but have strong opinions. Peak fees have gone up for Nepal / Pakistan becuase those governments want cash directly to their coffers. If there were no guided expeditions, then peaks fees would still have risen becuase the governments still want cash.

Running a small business is more difficult than climbing any mountain. Christine should be given a lot of credit for that. As far as clients/guiding. Sometimes people want to learn a new thing like playing a guitar and are willing to pay for others. In some trips like the 8000m peaks the main problem is logistics. Many clients who climb the 8000m peaks are experienced--they just did not want to have to go through all the hoops and organization of doing such an endeavor. They are/were willing to pay for other people to take care of the all the b.s. such as oxygen/permits/porters/yaks/food/equipment/sat phone/transportation getting to the base of the mountain...... I know what it takes because I have seen it first hand.