Stefan

I just bought a Highgear off of Ebay. My friend bought one and he has been happy with it. That's why I bought mine on Ebay and the same watch. I never use the temperature or compass functions-even on my previous Suunto. I just want an altimeter, time, date, alarm, and light on my watch. I don't use anything else.....these watches these days do way too much.

Due to low snow in lower elevations this year, you will probably more than likely able to drive to the Ipsut Creek trailhead. You will not be able to drive though the White River entrance becuase the gate will still be up. The only reason why the NPS gates the road at White River is twofold. They do not want uphill traffic to Sunset becuase it is still under a lot of snow, and the campground is still covered under snow at this time.

Good TR Pandora. It even takes guts to write what you did on a public forum.

It depends on what you call a real summit. But, if the weather is right....you can climb lotsa stuff on full moon nights in sping snow conditions.

I would like to see that one. Maybe Colin will do it?

Cayuse Pass will be open by mid May definitely. Definitely take the bike then after they open the pass.....I suspect the White River road will be snowfree but the campground may have snow...that road will be snow free becuase I am seeing that higher up there is more snowpack than normal but lower down there is less than normal snowpack.... http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/passes/cayuse/

You did some bad ass climbing at a tough location. Something many of us do not have the balls for--including and definitely myself. You ought to be happy with your accomplishment.

Mountie, You still are not using this website to show your places you are going to be. Please place the places you are going to be so we can avoid you. Then your group as well as ours can enjoy the areas. http://larch.forest.net/mountaineers/FMPro?-Db=Trips98_.fp4&-Format=trip_schedule.htm&-View

Any trail around Cortina. The Baltoro Glacier up to Concordia after Paiyu.

I know two parties over the past two years who have done Bears Breast.....

It is probably in order: Hozomeen Mt. Prophet South Twin Lyman Hill Three Fools Mt. Misch

No. There is another option. Chelan Airways. They take floatplanes up. Cost is about $120 roundtrip. I don't know if that is per trip or per person. Here is the website: http://www.chelanairways.com/

Fricken amazing just to hear this.

I know it's a PIA. But the Mowich seems the most logical and I don't know why you have to wait....take a bike with a trailer. Park your car at the Paul Peak trailhead. Ride your bikes as far as you can ride the bikes up. (End of June you can get to the lake.) Climb. Come down Tahoma Glacier or other side and have somebody pick you up. Get your butt back to Mowich lake by either walking Wonderland trail (base of Tahoma Glacier). Or have friend who picks you up on other side, borrow his bike with a Burley trailer, and ride it to Mowich Lake to pick up your buddy(ies) bikes.

It came from the Bulgers. In addition, I have been told the Washington State Geographic Names Board now names peaks with over 400' of prominence (I guess it is their rule too.). Just becuase a peak is NOT named now on a map does not mean it will not be named in the future. I guess someday all those peaks will be named....so long as Washington stays a state.

True dat! BTW....I have been up Isolation and Newhalem peaks in a day round trip. They are not that difficult.

Mountie, thanks for the heads up. But please also update the climbing schedule you provide on this website you guys have: http://larch.forest.net/mountaineers/FMPro?-Db=Trips98_.fp4&-Format=trip_schedule.htm&-View I am trying to be accomodating to you by avoiding the areas you have scheduled. I know other people use this too to avoid you the Mountie groups. When I do a search for April 2004 your group does not have the Icicle Creek area scheduled. I believe the climb schedule the Mountaineers post is very helpful. Please keep it updated.

Have any of you actually and really used a prussik in a crevasse rescue? They really suck and they are time consuming. They really are. The way to get around the problem of the prussik and the stichtplate is to use an ascender. It's easier. It works better.

Dang. This is sexy!

I am still amazed at anybody doing Nooksack Tower. Congratulations!

Climb: Davis Peak-SE Ridge Date of Climb: 4/10/2004 Trip Report: Davis Peak was made by Greg K., Dave C., Brian H., and myself on Saturday. After getting some great information from Don G. on his ascent up this peak a couple of years ago, I thought this would be a good easy outing. We parked at a pullout on the north side of the highway just before mile marker 151(?) and started moving by 7:30. Don G. had told us about a trail, but we could not find it; however, on the way down we found the trail--it starts at the furthest east end of the pullout. We walked underneath the lower powerlines for a little while before we soon headed up to the upper powerlines and into the forest. Brush is unpleasant underneath the powerlines and improves once you enter the forest. After the upper powerlines we ascended in a generally NE direction towards point 4162, where we always had a stream within hearing distance to the west of us. Going up was generally brush free but had some instances of vine maple in patches. From point 4162 we headed west towards the 5500+ foot plateau on the ridge and ran into one area where we basically had to climb a tree becuase we didn't investigate further enough to the north or to the south of where we were at; however, on the way down there were plenty of opportunities to avoid tree climbing as we found out. We made the plateau and had a looksy at the south ridge. Don G. had told me the ridge was class three and from our vantage we thought the ridge was covered in snow with cornices. I was not mentally ready to do a class 3 ridge with cornices and snow on it and this potential worried me. We traversed the main basin without the aid of snowshoes and made the south ridge just north of point 5872. The ridge began easily on class 3 dry ledges staying below the crest on the east side. For some reason Brian, Dave, Greg, and I thought we all saw easier lines to make the ridge proper. It turned out that Brian and Dave took class 4ish to 5ish lines while Greg and I continued on easier fashion and hit a steep snow wall to make the ridge. Brian and Dave decided they were not going to take their return route on the way back. After getting to the ridge we found out the western side of the ridge was snowfree and now only class 2. My worries were over and I was quite relieved that we would definitely make the summit on such a fine day. One minor class 3 section was encountered just before the false summit. We reached the summit at 1:30 and found the register signed by about 6 parties since Dallas Kloke's 1971 original signage including the last party of Don G., Natala G., Tom C., and their friend from the east coast. There was no pencil available so many more parties have ascended and not signed in than is present. Pretty nice views. We left around 2:15 and rappelled the section where Greg and I had ascended the last section up to the ridge where the snow was the steepest. This took a little bit of time with all four of us but still went smoothly. The snow had become "mushy alfredo sauce" like and required the use of snowshoes for the traverse of the basin and back to the forest. We followed our same exact way back to the car hitting the trail that Don G. told us about below the lower powerlines and the car at 6:45. Was this the prospector's trail before the highway? We then went to Tom and Connies place in Marblemount where they treated us to beers, margaritas, and nachos next to their innagural fire pit. It was a great time! Notes: Snow line started around 3800 feet on the south facing treed slope and I do not recommend skis for this area.

Pretty much. If I think somebody is going to fall on a slope behind me then I carry the slack to anticipate the fall. If I think somebody might fall in a crevasse, no matter what the angle whether up or down, then no slack. The question then becomes why would I be on a slope without a picket between me and my partner? There are places where there are crevasses or no crevasses but you still have the rope between you and your partner(s) such as the upper parts of Rainier. One area you might be all familiar with is the DC proper section on the standard route of Rainier. I am on a rope there, there are no crevasses, I don't use pickets in that area, but the fall potential is there.

I agree you are going to get wacked being the lead dude from the partner who falls below you. But, would you rather SURPRISE the lead partner with being yanked off his feet OR would you want your lead partner to have some ample warning (by the yelling) so he can TRY to get into self arrest BEFORE he is yanked? When I am in the lead, I want a 1/2 second BEFORE being surprised by total yank behind me becuase if a yank comes from behind me, my body will more than likely be yanked onto its back. If I get a 1/2 second from someone yellling "falling" then I will be facing into the slope which is much easier to self arrest. I would rather take my chances at potentially stopping a team fall than being part of the fall. You will definitely be part of the fall if your rope is taught, whereas you will have a chance of not having a team slide IF there is some slack AND the person falling yells "falling" loud enough to be heard. Downhill = always taught Flat glacier = always taught

Here is the best measurement information besides personel opinions: http://www.seawfo.noaa.gov/products/CLISNO It seems the snowpack is just below normal in the northern half of Washington and above average in the souther half of Washington.

That does not make sense. If you do not have ANY slack you will yank your partner immediately and it will not matter if you yell falling becuase your partner will be falling too with you simultaneously. I think it is important to have some slack when you are going on the uphill side. WHY? When you fall, you immediately yell "FALLING", thereby allowing your partner to react and getting into a self arrest position BEFORE he is yanked by you. IF YOU HAVE NO SLACK AND YOU FALL YOU WILL YANK YOUR PARTNER BEFORE THEY GET INTO SELF ARREST. On the glacier and it is relatively flat, then definitely no slack. The rope cutting into the crevasse lip will more than likely stop a fall. On the downhill side, no slack. The back people will see what is happening and should react even faster than somebody yelling "Falling". However, if the back person falls, then that person should yell, "Falling" and that will be ample time for everyone to go into self arrest and get crampons in the face. But rule #1: Don't fall.