Lambone

turns out the BD vipers fit just fine into the WildThings Ice Sac tool tubes...

Found a partner to tie in with. Let me know if yer are also planning to come up and we can all take over Mugs and Jugs for a Lilooet Pube Club

Anyone wanna go? I can drive up from Ashland on the Fri the 19th. Only catch is that I can't bring you back to Seattle. Need to pick up the wife at Vancouver Airport for some skiing. Basicaly I'm hard up for a partner. Gotta pretty good tick list to work on....i.e. forget the Rambles or Marble Canyon. Ropeguns welcom but not necescary, if you can follow WI4-5s then we'll have some fun.

Nice photo Lowell, Did some full moon powder trips in Bozeman a while back...one on mushrooms....very surreal, highly recomended...you never realized fesh snow crystals reflect so many colors! Last year Fitz and I climbed Oregon Jack in the full moon, after driving 8 hours and drinking 20 Red Bulls each. It was pretty chalanging...but the next day was shot, just did a couple laps at Marble. Not a bad way to do it if you can't wait until saturday to climb!

If any of you guys wan't to hit the Wallowas some weekend, let me know...I'll drive up and meet ya

Are you trying to infer that we are not really so called "climbers" Never heard of Sea ice, but I have heard pack ice reffering to the ice on the sea....

Marble Canyon is only about 45min-1hr from Kamloops.

You know I'm a fat guy right? You sure you can handle it?

Link Some cool pics

Jealous My vote for the three best Lilooet Routes would be Shriek, Loose Lady, and Carlsberg. Based on pumpyness and scare factor. The Tube was fun, but too short to make the top three. But there are still lots of routes that I have yet to get on....

If you look close and go in slow mo, it looks like another bile is getting buried at the bottom of the runout zone...

The Theft Tuan's report on the Theft, pretty cool...

Try the West Face of Sloan Peak, should be in shape soon

no, the get wrinkled and drive me crazy. if your boots fit right you won't get blisters. i used to wear them, but gave up on it...

Fabrizio was with our team on Ama Dablam...crazy dude, good climber, kept us laughing the whole time with his pimp'n tales...

Where is "Shredie?" Haven't seen that one before, it's not in the Guide book is it? Does it touch down, or is it mixed? Looks cool!

Here's to all the fee-healers riping freshies up at Bachelor this weekend More Tele skiiers than I've ever seen in one weekend. The snow was dope on a stick!

Mile-O and Mugs and Jugs, all you need to know. Drive around and you'll see the climbs.

Right on, thanks jja...looks like it's worth a trip! How did the lower part of Synchro look?

Mods, Please move this to the Gear Critic. thanks

true nuff... I should have said, things that will make wall climbing more fun, safer, faster, more effecient, and greatly reduce the suck/suffer factor. The hardmen/women who climb superfast don't bring most of that shite. But don't kid yourself into thinking you'll be doing speed ascents on your first big wall. That plan has "bail" written all over it. Your first wall won't be fast, it also won't be "party style"...it will be seemingly endless work, pain, suffering, waiting for other newbies in front of you, and raceing to get to the top before you run out of water, constantly fighting the fear of exposure, commintment, and the urge to bail back to the bar. Only once you are familiar and comfortable with the realities of big wall climbing will it become a party. Go prepared for this and it might even be fun!

Here are the most obvious ones, that are easy to get to...I don't know all the names and shit, lots of the smaller lines don't have names. When you are hiking up the main trail, on the big wall where you turn to go up to th emummy climbs there are several "new"-since 2001 mixed lines, most put up by Pete Tapley. Some are on the far right and some on the far left. they can be TR'd and are moderate. Good mixed practice. G2 has a new line courtacy of Pete on the right side. Zack attack, Mummy 3, and the Big Sleep and Climb in Between in Flanders.. and loads of stuff on Unamed wall are some of the clasic nice mixed climbing in Hylaite. They are in the guide book. I have also heard of new mixed lines in East Hylaite in the Alpha-Omega cave, Palisade Falls, and near Champagne Cherbert. Winter Dance, Bull-Dog world, and Teenage Delinquant (cave under responsible family man) are some of the test peices that get done, put up by Alex and Pete. The bolts on Teenage Delinquant may be suspect, beware....equalized bolts in cobbles stuck in volcanic mud. Will Gad did the FA and called it M9-M10....very steep. Pine Creek has some good ones as well...Incubus and Succubus. Cooke City is the Vail of Montana, many new lines and many FA's waiting to be developed. And it has it's own version of the Fang. If you are going with mixed climbing in mind, give me a hollar and I will hook you up with Pete, he loves to share info and welcoms newcomers. Lambone

Yeah I meant the Met gloves. Any rollerblad kneepoad is fine, but I like the ones with the plastic cap. I saw a guy crush his kneecap on the South Face of the Column from a small fall...bad news. Forget two sets of BD nuts. 1 if that is plenty, spend your $ on offsets.

Other stuff you will need. -Helmet -Knee Pads and good leather gloves, (get the Metolius ones, they are worth it.) -Jumars -(I like Petzl) -Hauler - Pro-Traxion or Kong Block Roll -Ropes, 10.5-11 mil...Mamut Supersafe is the best wall rope. Haul line, I like the Sterling polyesther static chords. -Kong adjustable fifi -Aiders and daisies. I like regular daisies-get the longest ones, and when I replace my BD aiders some day I will get the Yates ladders.

This is true, adding tiny nuts and hooks to a hefty free rack (read: yours and your partners combined) will get you up most any of the intro trade routes. Fancy offset stuff makes things easier and quicker, but a good old set of TCU's is time tested.