Lambone

anyone ever see anybody fall off the "Airy Step?"

Yeah mattp, that is exactly what i'm talking about. Once I tried your way over to the left and found myslf doing this big unprotected traverse to get back over to the crack higher up on the right. Seemed just as hard and scary, and a fall would bring you pretty close to the deck. Anyway...yeah Canary is a cool climb for sure

oopps, hows that?

yup, that's me...badass-hardcore 5.7 climber It might be alittle unerving your first time, but once you realize the holds are big then I don't find it any scarier then the other run-out climbs at Castle. Personaly I think the Start of Saber is just as scary, and I have seen someone deck from 20 ft up on it. Not to mention the 1st pitch of Canary where you need to face climb for 20ft above large boulders until you get your first good piece in. Much harder and more dangerous than that traverse move. Who's with me here

I'm with dberdinka on this one. If you want a thin and durable rope, check out the 9.5 Marathon. It's a bit heavier then a standard 9.5 though...

Jay, As I can remember, the main road leading into the canyon forks, left goes on the South side of the river, and right goes on the North Side to Deer Creek Campground. For Duck Soup go left and drive to the end where you can park...it's maybe a 1/4 mile hike down to the climb before you head up. For H.O.B. I have approached from both sides of the river. Driving to the end of the road on the North Side and crossing the river there is the shortest approach, but you will need to wade the river. It will probly be deeper than you expect this time of year, maybe thigh deep. I'd recomend parking as for Duck Soup and walking down to the H.O.B. drainage. I remember it being about 2 miles, takes maybe an hour. The climb is well worth it. I'd stay away from climbs on the North Side (south facing) this time of year. they may still look fat from the road, but you are bound to find sun-fucked ice and slush. No good. Also, be carefull of pillars. Stick to the big blue fat flows on the South side, and bring yer Gor-tex and T-shirts. Go climbing! Have fun!

2 moves to a fat bolt, big deal... If were putting a cam there you were just wasting time and creating rope drag anyway...

Did you go?

American Alpine Club

Hey, Yeah, cool...bring yer T-Shits and water proof gloves! No Some of the fattest, bluest ice I have climbed was in Cody during March. Here's some fat 3's and 4's Put these on your list first: -Bozo's -Duck Soup -High on Boulder -Mean Grean is long with 1 short steep pillar pitch, that you can walk around. -Horesetail and Ice Fest are cool also, but harder. -Moratorium is a cool 4 that is thin at the bottom, do it if it's in. Don't bother walking back to the Love Stinks climbs. Crossing the river to get to High on Boulder might be sketchy, or a wade fest. If you Follow the approach to Duck Soup and just keep going past on the South Side of the river, it is a little more walking, but not that bad. The approaches are no big deal, don't bother with floatation. Don't jump any fences. Have fun!

This a great time to be in Yosemite, you'll have a blast. in my opinion, good weather windows in March are the best times to be in the Vally. With any luck I will be there next week. Go to Camp 4. It cost 5 bucks...no big deal. You hear lots about pirate camping in the Valley, but that is during the summer months when it is crowded and the camp is full. This time of year Camp 4 is a ghost town. For that reason, picking up a partner may be more chalanging than you are expecting. I would post a note real quick in the Supertopo forum. Lots of Californians in there who will be heading up to make the best of good weather this weekend. People have found great climbing there in the last few weeks, but the park is relatively empty. You could try rockclimbing.com also. Places to pick up partners when in the Valley: Camp 4 kiosk bulliten board, Lodge Cafe, Mountain Room Bar (also in the Lodge, Denagens Cafe in Yosem Village, Mountain Shop in Cury Village. E But of Middle is a great route, but the decent is a snowfilled gully that may be tricky this time of year. Another option would be Central pillar of Frenze (5.9), where you rap the route. Manure Pile is a good one for moderates, Nutcracker needs to be done for historical value alone. If your into soloing 5.6, "After 6" is a popluar solo on Manure pile, something you could do on Sat afternoon. Even if you just go hike around or boulder, it would be worth it. Have fun!

I tend to follow Will's school of thought. I usually solo with two ropes. Definately rap the tag/haul line on roof or traverse pitches...don't rap the lead line...and make sure your haul line is fixed at the bottom anchor. when you get down to it just real yourself in, using a jug if you need to. I'v experimented with re-climbing through a pitch, but generaly I find that method more strenous than jugging the rope and doing lower-outs. It may be faster sometimes, but not much. Sometimes it is better to re-aid the pieces, like if jugging the rope will put too much sideways force on the piece and pull it or tweak the cables. I use a gri-gri as a back up to my jugs. On short lower-outs I just pass a bight (from the end of the rope tie in on my harness) through the fixed peice and lower out with my hands, you have plenty of friction. If it is bigger I'll rig an ATC to let the slack out slower/easier. Like will said, if there is no fixed gear, don't back clean your pieces, if there is a good fixed piece, backclean as far as you can after it and do one big lower-out. If I am soloing and not using the tag line to haiul, I will often rig myself a seperate back up with it as I jug the pitch. Mostly for piece of mind,cause jugging scares me.

I've got a Volant jacket with Epic fabric. I've been very happy with it. I wwear it on the outside layer and it has been plenty water resistant during light snowfall. The heavier fabrics are less breathable and could cause the down inside the coat to wet-out if your wearing it for an extended period. I'd suggest the Epic. This thread could be moved into the "Gear Critic" forum.

Ah-ha! Cool! This is what I use them for (not my picture):

yeah, kinda hard to tell how far he was, or how high above the last piece...probly at least a couple of body lengths above it. A dynamic belay is probly a pretty good idea on that limestone though...

I think Fish might be making them now also, check their website.

yeah, those back steps are pretty cool...seems like it be hard to avoid snaggging yer leg doin that. it'd be sweet to see more footage of him climbin cool stuff...

evaluate what? he's not afraid to fall..for christ sake the dude soloed the nose and half dome in a day!

Right on Will, welcom to cc.com

Thanks Gary, acctually i bought one of those, but it didn't work for my intended purpose. That biner has a gaurd that makes you pull up on the gate befor eit will twist open. Kind of like the old BD Superlock biner. I use them on my daisies and need to be able to open it easily with a thumb. This biner is too hard to open over and over again with just yer thumb. Anyway, I don't think it exists...

Does anybody know of an auto-lock key gate biner? I'd love to get my hands on two for aiding. thks, Bone

If you head south gimme a shout. I'm also looking for partners down here in Ashland. I'm only 26, but I've been climbing about the same amount of time. Castle Rock state park,Ca is 1hr from my house. This goes for all you cc.comohaulics

if it pops all three are talus food. pin stacks are nothing too unusuall...although I prefer a sawed-off

WOW

wow, that high-step heel-toe-jam-leanover is about the funkiest move I have ever seen! "I'm definately not good at fear."....classic.