Lambone

I'm just being a smart ass...it's my M.O. Actualy, my wife and I are looking into new Trancievers...'bout time to replace the old Pieps.

Over the years I have spent a good portion of my life savings at Jim's shop....well worth it

So once everything has been said, there will be no reason to post to this web-site anymore, it will be mearly a search engine

It looks ok, I just don't like how long the leash is. The andriods are bad enough about wrapping around everything and trying to drop screws when your pumped, I wouldn't want anything longer. But i'm sure they work fine once yoo are used to them. The black plugs definately suck though. Regardless the tools are pretty cool. Cheap and light weight, plus the wanna-be-lockdown leash that it comes with works good too.

Hey, looking for a partner to go climb The Leaning Tower, or Washington Column with in Feb or March, possibly the last weekend of Jan. I'm thinking this will be a 4 day weekend trip...Fri through Mon, weather window dependant of course. Will only consider going with experienced wall climbers. Otherwise I'd rather solo. If you have the Yosemite bug early this year, let me know! Matt

Yeah, i poped 'em all out and taped them up. Looks kinda ghetto, but should work. The ratteling inside stopped out of the blue, so I'm thinking the little black plug is stuck somewhere in the shaft, but I'm expecting it to start ratteling again...

I got a pair of these at MEC for my wife.... So far I really like them! Oh yeah, she does too... Super light, a good swing, and the curve at the top gives enough clearance for funky ice. Only gripe is they have these holes in them for the wanna be Charlet Android leash, they are plugged with little black plastic things. First day out one of the plugs got knocked inside the tool...so now there is a little plastic thing rattleing around in the shaft Kinda lame, I'm considering sending it back. If you get Charlet Tools take the plastic things out right away. Also, with the echange rate the way it is I think I may have ended up paying more for them at MEC then in the States. Otherwise

So is Salt and Pepper touching down? The Cable is one of the coolest looking ice routes I have ever seen...anywhere.

Cracked, Because no one gives a crap if you top-roped a WI5. Where as if you led it, you have full chestbeating privilages in the bar afterward. It's as simple as that. In response to lummox: Maybe in Washington or Lilooet you don't, but in many geographic regions WI5 is considered pretty moderate.

I like Dru's method, although I have never fallen on lead, and ratings don't count on top rope. If I'm pumped, scared, the best screws still suck, and there are no rests...then I call it a 5 If I'm pumped and scared but the screws are good I call it a 4+ If I'm pumped but not too scared it's a 4 If it looks cooler than a 3 then it's a 4- If I'm not pumped or scared it's a 3 WI2...? All of this is a factor of the sustained steepness and quality of the ice. Anything 80 degrees or less on good ice is WI3. 80 to 90, some level of WI4. Dead vertical for a sustained length, WI5. Many things feel dead vertical, but real dead vertical ice climbing feels overhanging.

I'm not badass..I humped a load, jugged a line and watched some cool climbing...but my buddy is...and I can brag about him if I wan't, cause I wish I was that cool. But dru's got it right, if you need to ask you probly shouldn't be carrying a bolt kit. The "how many hangers" line pretty much gave away the troll...

You calling Fred Becky a dork...better watch it, Caveman might come kill you!

It really all depends on what kind of Alpine terrain you are talking about. The route in the high country of Mt that my buddy put up with a power drill has several 5.12 pitches out of a total of 10 or 11. Lots of linking small features with hard face climbing. For this route a good drill was 100% essential. If I was going to...lets say try to FA some big rock route in the Ruth Gorge or Baffin or something, I'd sure as hell have a drill. Not that I'm planning that anytime soon... For some ridge romp...of course it is rediculous to cary a hand drill.

yeah, and when you are with your wife it doesn't really matter anyway, cause Marble and the Rambles is enough for them. Unless you are daler

The Petzl hand drill is supposidly the lightest. But they have the tendency to break...read that story about "The Flame" in Pakistan. I have the Hurricane for aid routes. Pretty bomber, works good....kind of heavy, but what isn't. Bring 1/4" for lead and 3/8" for belays. Just depends on how much time you are willing to spend drilling. Then again my buddy in Montana just carries his Bulldog into the Alpine. But he is burly like that.

This is pretty funny, since just before Christmas you and about 10 other people were telling me that I'd be wasting my time driving to Lilooet... Like you said about Shriek of the Sheep, it is amazing how much conditions can change in just a week or two.

Yeah dude, looks sick, a mini Fang. The approach doesn't look too bad. Go send!

Nice TR, carefull with the Road Pops though, I got stopped at a road block getting on HWY 1 just north of Sumas. Mounties were looking in my rig for empties...I had to explain to them what Red Bull was

Wow, those photos are great, but this page is kind of a pain to discuss routes on! Anyway, it was weird...Three Ring Circus looked better before Christmas than it did afterward. Hey, Since we are talking routes in that area, does anyone know about the striking pillar up the hill and across the river past TRC, just before you get to the first bridge (Snychro parking area). It is right about when you crest the hill and start going down. It looks like some WI2 pitches up to a 50ft free hanging pillar that has touched down. Looks sweet! Seems like you could approach allong the river from the bridge.

Don, looking forward to the new book. Every time I have been to lillooet at least one party has asked me if I have the guide, and where they could get it. Regarding the first statement, is this season more like a typical season in the past, i.e. is it better than usual or just better than it has been the past few years? Second, Winters Edge sporting goods store in Lillooet is selling that paper guide for $5 CD I believe.

strictland, whats up this this statement,"...was on Dec 5, so technically that ain't winter"...? Since when is early december in Canada not winter? whats up with Will not updating his web site in a month...sheesh what a slacker. he must be off climbing somewhere...how dumb

yeah this is true...good luck!

hey, before you come here and start cally people dipshits...try looking around before you ask. About 3 or 4 threads have been started on Gorge ice in the last week. yours is yet another.

RE: Synchro ramp rappels... I'd recomend not rapping the rock face from trees. We didn't make it and were left dangleing in space in the darkness, had to unclip on some sketchy stance with no belay...it was fucked. Maybe we did it wrong, but I won't make that mistake again!