fredrogers

Any of you happen to look at the N. Buttress Coulior on Colchuck? I know the NE Buttress is out for the year, but am thinking about heading back for a re-match if the weather holds. Cheers. Fred

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Shouldn't you be looking for a job rather than cyber slacking? Not while I have 6 months of unemployment left...

Doing some spring cleaning and came across three slightly used Clog cams- 1/2", 1" and 3" (lt green, lt. blue and black) that I would be happy to part with. $20 each. Also selling a used pair of 5.10 spires, brand new resole, men's 10.5. $25. PM or email db_climbz@hotmail.com

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Look for the only cloud in the Cascades this weekend and it will be over my head. Thanks for all the replies. Everyone have a fun and safe weekend. Dude- shouldn't you be working rather than posting on this site?

quote: Originally posted by Juan: Everyone: If you go out with Tim, it will rain. Trust me on this. Cheers, John Sharp I second that. Rained on us at Colchuck on Monday. Bring your gore-tex.

you've ever heard some one talk about "gym climbing ethics".

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: [QB Gym Climbing’s leading Ethical Debates, Should you… 1. …eventually throw those rotten shoes out, just because your partner keeps bugging you about it? Make them buy you new ones if it's such a problem for them. 2. …try to look experienced by leaving all your quickdraws and cordellets attached to your harness..? only if the price tags are still attached. 3. …tell a route setter that there new climb sucks cause it’s a reachy sandbag? yes, but expect to be told to go fuck oneself. 4. …bring your barking dog to the gym with you..? only if attacks the kids in the birthday party. 5. …bring your crying baby to the gym with you? only if it gets attacked by the barking dog. 6. …give the birthday party kids more sugar? i've found that they like speed better. 7. …convince birthday party kids that they are going to die? well, it's inevitable, isn't it? see 6 above. 8. …convince birthday party kid’s parents that their children are going to die? definitely. that way they won't come back. 9. …pretend that you know how to belay if you just learned in the car? belaying is for sport climbers. 10. …use the wire toothbrush or the nylon toothbrush on that new Pusher sloper? "Pusher sloper" sounds like a disease. Use whatever it takes to get rid of it. 11. …steal the gyms rental chalk bags while no one is looking? it's called "loaning" damnit. 12. …steal your partner’s chalk when they aren’t looking? only if they stole their chalkbag from the gym. 13. …use the gyms finger tape instead of investing 1.50 on your own supply? that's what the $50-70 a month membership fee should buy rather than some shitty muzak system. 14. …sneak that one extra move above the bouldering height limit? only if you fall on a birthday party kid or a crying baby. 15. …wear that new tight spandex even though you just began your diet program? if wearing a thong, it's perfectly okay. 16. …force your kid to “make it to the top or else…!”? tough love is what today's whiny little anklebiters need. 17. …look bored when belaying? After all, attention while belaying makes the gym seem like a dangerous place. I thought that was part of the gym culture. 18. …carry a selection of colored tape on routes with you? Never know when you might need another hold… perfectly legal. 19. …leave your rope and other gear on the floor for the staff to store in the lost ‘n found for you? You’ll be back in two days anyway right… the staff should be able to keep whatever they like, then give the rest back. 20. …pretend that you know the local old school cascades hard men/women to impress your girlfriend? have you ever read anything on this board? 21. …should you throw your newbie boy/girl friend on your latest project just to show them how hard you climb? only if you set the route. 22. …rat on the staff because they are bouldering or reading magazines while you need help? why not. you guys are highly paid, right? 23. …leave any slack in the TR. This may force a climber to climb a move twice while 'working' a crux. slack is for kids. 24. …complain about the music again? see #13 above. 25. Finally, should you spin a hold after a route has been set? Changing the landscape of the climb to fit your needs is both unaesthetic and indicates that you will stoop to over-wrenching rather than rise to the challenge of the climb. it's a fucking gym climb man. it's all artificial. Let us know what you think, Lambone + glen[/QB]

quote: Originally posted by DLunkman: Yeh! Who was it? NOLS? The Boealps? The WAC? The Access Fund? Mariners Fantasy Cruise? It was the Eastern Omakian Rim Runners Club.

quote: Originally posted by erik: this stems from a couple posts from today....... also on the garbage note, while specialed and i were answering the booty call(stuck gear, not each other) over the weekend we found lasrge amount of trash and litter all over the place, we atargeted the learning cliffs....and i know that there were classes out there from a certain local outdoor club.....if i see that much trash again from a reconized group i will talk to local agencies about it....... Erik- TimL and I picked up the trash after we finished giving the area a once over- I've already sent a message to the trip leader from this past weekend regarding the amount of crap that was left behind. It's bad form for anyone to litter, let alone a group engaged in teaching people about the outdoors. - fred.

quote: Originally posted by pete a: Hi all, Yesterday was my first trip out to Leavenworth for the year, and I went over to Bruce's Boulder to set up a toprope and do a few easy warm up climbs. I hiked around to the top, and much to my suprise, all but two bolts had been chopped, and those bolts remaining had the hangers removed...I know they were there last spring....Does anyone know whats going on? Any reason for someone to chop the bolts? just curious...I did a search to see if this topic had been brought up before, but nothing came up. I still managed to get a t.r. set up using pro and a few slung boulders...but it would've been nice to just clip the bolts and go. Most of the hangers on the right side of clamshell cave are missing as well. The theif had the courtesy to leave the bolts and nuts, so bring some hangers of your own. The hangers on the left side are all intact, since they've been epoxied into place and are apparently not worth the trouble of removing. The hangers are also missing from the big boulder with the 5.7 handcrack. Bring some huge ass slings for the tree if you plan on running any of the problems on it.

I used a Voile split decision 173 for an attempt on S. Sister this weekend. I found it rode fairly well as a board, but doing anything other than climbing on the skis was incredibly difficult- the 6 mile ski out was miserable. Not to mention they felt VERY heavy. The binding and board set-up seemed to be a bit rinky-dink- glad I wasn't trying to re-assemble the board in sub-freezing temps. Has any one out there had any experience with either of the Burton split boards and binding systems? Can you compare to the Split Decision? TIA. Fred.

quote: Originally posted by rayborbon: Maybe not the worst but a huff and puff off the beaten path is Toketie Creek drainage............ Check it out! Amen, brother. Amen.

quote: Originally posted by Jman: So what's the ideal base layer? I'm confused by the seemingly contradictory propaganda by manufacturers. For example , Smartwool says that synthetics fibers "do not breathe" but can "only 'wick' moisture away" or "only transfer moisture and have no ability to evaporate it." Whereas their garments, because of their "natural breathabilty, will evaporate that moisture quickly." Yet, Smartwool "wicks moisture off the skin’s surface 27% faster than any synthetic" while it also "can absorb 30% of its dry weight before feeling damp." What's up with that? Doesn't sound too comfortable - cotton breathes and absorbs quite a bit of moisture too, but it doesn't mean I'd be comfortable in it. And then, it supposedly insulates better because "each fiber creates millions of microscopic air pockets that give it “loft”." Well, I really don't feel a need for insulation in a base layer - that's what insulation LAYERS are for. OK, so now how about Capilene? They state that other untreated polyesters are hydrophobic or water resistant. But in Capilene the surface of each fiber "has been chemically altered to make them hydrophilic" or water absorbant and hence "moisture lifts, spreads and disperses, evaporating into either the air or outer layers." [sorry, I originally had my fact confused and hence edited the post.] What does everybody else use/prefer? Do you want a fabric that absorbs or repells moisture to be comfortable? (Note: I'm not interested in this for insulation capabilities. That's a whole different topic and a completely different fiber for a completely different purpose.) [ 03-25-2002: Message edited by: Jman ] Jman- It is really confusing. I worked (no longer doing so) with SmartWool for about a year- writing copy among other things- so I got to study all the technical stuff that we never wanted consumers to try and sort out on their own. To better try and explain how wool works at evaporating moisture, it 'uses' body heat to begin the evaoporative process while the moisture is contained in the fibers of the fabric themselves- rather than waiting for the moisture to be transported to the exterior of the garment and then evaporated as with synthetics. It simply beings the process a little earlier on... Wool will also keep you warm when it is damp or wet- something I have found synthetics not to do as well (I have Capaline, Polartec, Lifa and Hot Chillys own blend). To SmartWool's major credit- it does not absorb or retain odors as well as synthetics. I've used it for 4-5 days in a row and found it to be a little ripe, but nothing compared to poly-pew-palene. Even more so after a wash. It does have its limitations: their current product offering is more like 100 wt fleece than a base layer IMHO. Not great for areobic activities in anything but cold (20F or lower) weather. Perfect for stop and start activities like skiing though: I wear their zip-neck long sleeve with a shell for snowboarding and find that it usually about all I need. The cut of their current garments does leave a little to be desired- kinda formless and the natural white sure leaves something to be desired (get the olive or the black). The sleeves also tend to bag a bit when they've been stretched out. It's also twice as much $$ as even capaline... a hard swalow at first, but worth it. They will be expanding their product line this fall to include some mid and outerwear (scholler with a wool liner), as well as a lightweight series that I hope is more like a baselayer. The early product samples I saw were quite promising. Jim Nelson has the best selection I have seen in the state- and cheaper than REI.

quote: Originally posted by climberbro16: Winter/Spring mixed climbs. For conditions this month and next.. Well, it ain't mixed, but the S W Ridge of Red Mountain is a nice day climb- 3-4 miles from Snoqualimie Pass up Commonwealth Basin. Did it a cople of weekends ago in 5:45 RT. Wished I'd brought my board. Other climbs: N Face of Chair, NE Butt of Chair, S Face of the Tooth, NE slab of the Tooth, West Ridge of Thompson, NY Gulley on Snoqualmie. Check Neslon and Potterfield's Select Climbs Vols. 1 & 2 for more info.

quote: Originally posted by CodyICE: My girlfriend and I climbed chairlift falls at alpental saturday, March 9. They have formed even more since the last report. The batteries in the camera were dead so I have no pictures. We also climbed up to Hubba Hubba. It was practically gone. The hike up kind of sucked. Cody I'm not an ice climber so take this with a grain of salt, but I was up at Alpental today and the same pitches are much fatter and thicker than in these photos. Granted, with the 3+ feet of powder, I wouldn't approach these on foot. It was deep and schweet.

Slappy- Send me an email or a PM. Now have state-sponsored time to help replace those shitty anchors at Vantage. All else- donations accepted.

quote: Originally posted by Fromage: My tall, tall friend is looking for a used Dana Arcflex pack size XL frame. If you have one that you would be willing to sell, please email him: seano@interfluve.com I was just in the "attic" of REi tonight. Brand new Dana Arckflex packs in Xk size for cheap. something like $230- but don't quote me. 2nd floor of the main store, inbetween socks and customer service.

quote: Originally posted by Michael Lane: _____________Michael LaneOmega Pacific[/QB] Michael- Thanks for having the balls and the fortitude to represent your company here. As a fellow "marketing" professional, I'm glad that at least one person (as opposed to the TNF), has at least stood up to represent their own company. In full disclosure, I do have some of your gear, but certainly do appreciate both the quality and the price. Ethical decisons aside (did I mention I'm in advertising? ), at least the inmates are working.

quote: Originally posted by kevin page: Marley Crags are a blast and an especially good place on a hot day and you're very likely to have the area to youself. Hmm. Thats funny. I made the long trek up there once and was not so inclined to return. I guess if the Icicle/Tumwater is crowded and it's either that or mini-golf, sure, go fer it.

Okay- with the help of my fellow CCspraymongers and the Joshua Tree favs thread, I've got that part of my roadtrip planned out. So now let's hear some Red Rocks faves, preferably 5.10 and below, sport or trad.

quote: Hmmm...interesting. The Toketie route actually looks like the "easiest" way in besides going over Prusik. I'm curious as to whether you go off trail regularly or occasionally, because "single-worst heartbreaking POS" sounds pret-ty bad. Someone just PM'ed me that that way was NOT that bad. [/QB] Allison- as of last September, there's not much of a "trail" to speak of- just a shitty loose climbers path that heads straight up through an old fire burn. If you guys aren't carrying a ton of climbing gear- which it sounds like you won't be- may it won't be as bad as it was for us... I thought the approach into Challenger was easier and more pleasant, if that helps. (Although that was 2 years ago and painful memories do fade).

If it look like we can't get in that way, any one been in to Lost World Plateau via either the Rat Creek or Hook Creek drainage? They both look heinous on the map! Oh, and thanks so much for the advice on packing my pack.....I couldn't have done it without you.[/QB] Allison- I went in to the Lost World via the Totekie (sp)? approach last year. It is the single-worst, heart-breaking pieceof shit death-hike I've been on. Don't go that way unless you like steep, lose and dusty remnants of climbers paths. I've been told by knowledgeable sources that there is a better way in by hooking a right at Nada Lake and going in via the Temple drainage. Or, if you don't mind the mileage, go through the lower Enchantments and ove Prussik Pass. The Lost worl Plateau is one of the most beautiful areas I've had the good fortune to visit. And hard enough to get to that it we didn't see anyone else the entire time we were there.

Yet another thread degenerates into spray.

As a recent celebrant of the post-.com economy, I suddenly find myself with a lot more spare time on time on my hands and the need to phone in weekly in order to get a check sent from the unemployment security department. I took this to mean only one thing: road trip to somewhere warm and climbable. I'm headed down to JTree and Red Rocks in the first or second week of April. Anyone have any route (5.10A or below. I'm a wimp on the sharp end) or "how to live cheap" suggestions for either area? Also- if anyone else is headed down that way around that time, I'm already driving and happy to drive another for a gas/beer/green share.