fredrogers

quote: Originally posted by Jens: Fred, I sure hope you are just f8*&^%ing! with us. If you are serious, this really blows. The Leavenworth rangers seem to the most clueless idiots of all the forest servcie rangers. (no bridge foot traffic?) I smell another motive here. I wish I was, Jens. I wish I was. It's on official letterhead and all. Closed to foot traffic is probably only during the day, unless they have some of those dickheads from Ameri-Trails (or whatever that runs the campgrounds in the Icicle) on duty. Those fuckers blow.

quote: Originally posted by Jens: Fred, I sure hope you are just f8*&^%ing! with us. If you are serious, this really blows. The Leavenworth rangers seem to the most clueless idiots of all the forest servcie rangers. (no bridge foot traffic?) I smell another motive here. I wish I was, Jens. I wish I was. It's on official letterhead and all. Closed to foot traffic is probably only during the day, unless they have some of those dickheads from Ameri-Trails (or whatever that runs the campgrounds in the Icicle) on duty. Those fuckers blow.

Just received a letter from my dear friends at the LW Ranger station. Apparently the two bridges to the Stuart/Colchuck Lake TH have "exceeded their useful life" and are closed to vehiclular traffic for this season and most likely into next. This is closed to all traffic- foot or vehiclular- for the whole season- effectively shutting down access into the Enchantments from this TH. The good news is that they have the funding to replace the bridges- something I guess we should be greatful for in this economy.

I'd be real careful about possesing leafy combustibles in Mexico. We got tagged when I was in college and were looking at 5-7 years in a Tijiuana prison before we were able to pay a "fine" of $1,000 to be set on our merry way back to States as fast as we could make it. I also had a friend who bought a sack while he was in Cabo and then got turned into the federales by the same guy who sold him the bag. The Cehnehdiehns are so much more understanding.

A big thumbs up fpr SmartWool. Their current "next to skin" is a bit heavy as a baselayer (think 100 wt fleece), but not bad for cold weather stuff. They'll be releasing a whole new batch of lighter weight and better/more styles this fall along with outerwear.

A friend and I bivvied by the side of the road in Squamish one night. It was pouring rain all night until the early hours of the morning. After I woke up, got out of the truck and walked around to the front, only to find a brand new, completely dry Club magazine. Needless to say, we took this as an omen and took the ladies where ever we went for the rest of the trip. They even summitted Glacier Peak.

quote: Originally posted by todd: i double-checked for you fred - $74.11 is the price. Damn. That's a hell of a deal- as is the Maxim bi-color. Thanks for the info guys.

I'm looking to replace my 60M alpine/lead rope and have found both ropes on sale on a couple of web sites for approx $120-$130. I was wondering if anyone has positive or negative feedback on either brand. I have a Maxim 55M wich I love but is relegated to TRing and Blue Water 60M which sucks... don't think I'd buy another Blue Water.

quote: Originally posted by ScottP: Six days into a trip into the Southern Picketts, I was awakened one night by something tugging at my hair. I have no idea what it was, but it must have liked what it tasted because it kept coming back. Was it Becky?

quote: Originally posted by specialed: Yeah, buried under about twenty feet of snow. There is a trail, though not that direct. Check Peggy Goldman's "75 scrambles in washington state" for info on Daniels and TriCounty/Granite peaks (by Tuck and Robin lakes).

wow- nine posts and no one has bitched about snowboarders ruining things... you guys are letting me down.

quote: Originally posted by bobinc: The truly frustrating thing about snowboarders is that even with all the stupid, ignore-self-preservation-instinct stunts they pull, their mortality rate is still many orders of magnitude below the rate of entry of new snowboarders into the mix. Unless we take action, this trend will continue and with it will come the final depredation of all that is decent and good about sliding downhill on steel edges. There's plenty of punk ass kids on skis nowadays, too. Their shit stinks just as bad as your run of the mill punk snowboarder- or crusty old, close-minded alpine skier. Sorry to hear that knuckle draggers infringe on the purity of your 2 plank schuss. Sad thing is, if weren't for the increased number of snowboarders, there are number of ski resorts that would have gone TU in the mid to late 1990's becuase of the decline in skier visitation. Can't we all just get along?

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D-Squared- All the Mountaineers bashing aside on this site, I recommend the Mountaineers crag climbing course. No, not the basic course, but the crag climbing course. It's much smaller (24-30) students with about 1 instructor per 6 students (or more) and focuses on traditional gear placement for crag climbing. Many hands on field trips in Leavenworth (or other climbing areas), where you learn to place gear on TR, build anchors, place gear, get yourself out of the system for self-resuce, and then lead single and multipitch trad climbs. I took it about 4 years ago and volunteer teach frequently now. It's the best program the Mounties offer, IMHO. It's cheap, but does require some time comittment. Look up their web site or call for registration info. I also have a much of wired hexes for sale, cheap. Send me a PM in you're interested. Short of that, find some one and follow them for a year. Yuo'll learn how to clean and place gear. I'd advocate Leavenworth over Index for learning- grades are a little softer and there is much more in the sub-5.8 range. Check Roto Wall, Mountaniers dome, clamshell cave, Barney's Rubble, etc.

The dumbest mistake I ever made was when I went to climb the Mole with TimL and Air Barker. Well, it was a series of mistakes. The first was disregarding a grade IV approach from Jim Nelson. The second was missing the climber's path from the Snow Creak trail and having to buskwack up steep, old fire burn in 90 heat (although TimL will deny that we got lost. It was so heinous he's blocked it from memory. But I have photographic proof.) The third mistake was not camping at Toketie lake and carrying the 2 1/2 miles to Mesa Lake. We wake late and stagger to the start of the climb where we realize that we're late and running out of time. Air Barker nobley offers to not rope up, and in fact hike back to camp and sherpa our shit to Toketie lake. TimL and I start up the climb and quicky realize that we have just abused ourselves badly for the equivalent of the Tooth with two short 5.7 sections (although no Mountaineers). Mistake number four. After managing to squeeze my fat ass and a rope on my back through the squeeze chimney, I adjust my harness at the belay before the second crux. Mistake #5. TimL leads off and eventually I follow. I decide to tackle the hard layback, because, well, hey, I'm on top rope. I manage without falling, but thinking, well, gee, I'm glad I didn't lead that. I arrive at the last belay and Tim blasts off towards the summit. It's a beautiful day and I'm enjoying the view of the N Side of the Temple range, the Icicle Valley, the Edward Mesa. Tim hits the summit and I take him off belay and start to get ready to follow the last pitch. I then look down at my harness to realize that I've not bothered to double it back. After nearly vomitting at the stance, I buckle my harness and head to the top. Given the remoteness of the Mole, if I had fallen and slipped out of my harness, I shudder to think of what could have happened.

quote: Originally posted by mvs: Hi folks,Has anyone been up there? It doesn't seem quite as difficult as the main peak (Beckey calls it a "taxing workout", which is better than a hazardous enigma any day). But it sports a south face route that ascends clean slabs, this sounds pretty interesting. It was first climbed in February! Thanks all,--Michael Michael- I was up there this weekend, but not close enough to give any beta on the route. Check Phil Fortier's site- I know he did the main peak last year and he might be able to provide additional beta.

While at the evil empire the other day I was checking out some of them there Superfeet insoles. They seem like they'd work, but are they worth the $30+ tax ya need to part with for them? Any one have any experience with them? Thums up or down?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Ooooh oooh! I want em Hey TimL- go get a job. Cavey- send me a PM or an email- I might give you a special Y2002 deal.

quote: Originally posted by offwidthclimber: I think you're refering to the Black Cliffs on Hwy 21 near Lucky Peak on the way to Idaho City, not McCall. There's only 1 local guide book called Boise Climbs. Not a whole lot of info here, but its the site for the guide: http://www.boiseclimbs.com/ There are a shitload of trad and sport climbs, pretty much all 1 pitch, up to .13d or .14a. Fairly similar to Vantage in a lot of regards. Another good place to climb is up at Table Rock (the butte with the cross above town). There are sport, gear, mixed and top rope routes and some great bouldering on quarried sandstone. Between Table Rock and Hwy 21, above the river is a place called Valley of the Trolls, with good bouldering and a fair amount of potential. You have to cross some private land, so be stealth. There's some information at that boise climbs site. At Swan Falls, on the Snake River, out of Boise is a bunch of bouldering. Same goes for the Birds of Prey area outside of Melba. The area is called Halverson Lake and there are a ton of basalt boulders. Up near Bogus Basin ski area, there are some trad and sport climbs on Mores Mountain, but the area's under 6 feet of snow right now. Have fun. Lots of rock in the area. If you want more specifics, just email me. [ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: offwidthclimber ] OWC- Thanks. You're right it's on the way to Lucky Peak. I'll see if I can track down a book. Any good route reccos at .10a or under?

Just got back froma trip to Boise to celebrate Christmas with my girlfriend's folks and had a chance to check out the climbing area right outside Boise (on the way to McCall). Looks like columnar basalt- a mix of sport and trad. Since I'm sure I'll be back in Boise and looking for something to do : Any one ever climbed there? Have route recommendations? Is there a published guidebook?

Ditto the recommendation to take three days to do the climb. We did the Emmons last year, with an overnight in Glacier Basin (?) at 5,500', then up to Schurman at 9,500, summit and back to the car on the third day. We actually had a 4th night booked at Schurman, but wanted to get off the mountain and away from high camp... Also, leave yourself enough time to get up and off by noon... Due to the conditions on the route last year, we left at 12:30 and returned by about 11.

quote: Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: Hey Fred, I might be able to fit you into our apprentice program. Experence in drinking, skiing and belaying are pre-requesites. Well, I used to ski, but then about 15 years ago I fell victim to this passing fad called snowboarding. Lots of experience But I'm no belay bitch But I'll be your neighbor...

quote: Originally posted by slaphappy: Hey Freddy!Unbutton your sweater, bend over and grab those tennies. You be taken it in the arse just like the rest of us this year! * Snow has been damn fine so far, not a bad winter to be unemployed. Slappy- I'm hoping for the layoff. Don't like the job much anyway. Damn good snow year and a damn good time to be unemployed. I just need to learn how to make my own beer... Terminal Gravity, any suggestions?

Last year a got a $500 Christmas bonus, 2 weeks off, piad, at the holidays and an all expense paid trip to Steamboat Springs. Welcomed in the New Years sitting in a hot tub at Mt. Bachelor with my girlfriend and good friends. This year? 10% paycut, no bonus, very little time off and the prospect of a layoff looming large in January. But the snow is sooo much better... I guess it all evens out, doesnn't it?