fredrogers

quote: Originally posted by tivoli_mike: Anyone familiar with Ocun? These guys have coils of 10.5 X 60 for $79... sounds good. http://www.overstock.com/cgi-bin/d2.cgi?PAGE=PROFRAME&PROD_ID=35726 Not their ropes, but I have a really cool rope bag they make- rolls up into a back pack and features a zipper pocket- very handy on multi-pitch stuff. I've thrashed it and it's held up well. I think it's a Spanish brand.

Stolen from Tom Patey, I think: Alpenglow: Feeling of contentment and inner warmth induced by liberal doses of medicinal brandy. Alpenstock: limited number of shares in mountain real estate Alps: cries for assistance, most commonly heard in alpine areas of great Britain. Artificial climbing: knack of appearing to climb by talking about it. this technique is best employed far from actual climbing areas, which tend to be hazardous. small taverns and pizza parlours with an impressionable clientele are excellent sites for artificial climbing. Ascend: the part of a mountaineer opposite that on which the head is located. Balling up: (1) transforming crampons into short skis. (2) fun and games at increasingly higher altitudes. both are possible at the same time, but difficult. barometer: scientific instrument used to locate mountain taverns. see brake bar. Bashie: climber who pendulums out of control. bearing, true: opposite of bearing, false. blood: substance commonly used to mark a climbing route. Boot-ax belay: highly developed technique for ruining an ice ax, destroying a rope, and shortening a climbing day. Bar-tacking: sideways veering when approaching or leaving a mountain tavern. binding: discomfort caused by tight undergarments. blaze: unexpected result of overpriming a white gas stove. bong: sound made by a climber at the conclusion of a fall. boulder: place close to the ground to practice falling. when climbers aren't climbing, they like to sharpen their skills by bouldering on large rocks located in places frequented by impressionable tourists. because bouldering is done without protection, the rule is never to climb higher than you'd like to fall. that is why so many climbers stand around discussing boulder problems instead of climbing them. brake bar: tavern near a climbing area where everyone stops after a hard day climbing. see barometer. bugaboos: inordinate fear of mountain insects. buttress: outer garment specially designed for a woman with a large posterior. cache: (1) pocket money. (2) frozen assets. carabiner: oversized safety pin to hold up a diaper seat. clean climber: climber who doesn't smoke or consume hard liquor, and who changes undergarments daily. cold front: acute discomfort caused by an unzipped trouser fly. communication: following are the terms most employed: command meaning (climber) "on belay" "do i tie in with an overhand knot or a clove hitch" (belayer) "belay on" "i'm not ready yet" (climber) "climbing" "i'm having second thoughts about this" (belayer) "climb on" "i'm still not ready" (climber) "slack" "what do you think i am, a eunuch?" (belayer) "slack" "did he say tension?" (climber) "don't give me no slack!" "falling" (belayer) "what?" "did he say more slack?" (climber) "tension" "i'm climbing up the goddamn rope" (either) "shit" "shit" cornice: snow waiting for a climber to step on it before becoming an avalanche. deadman: climber (male) who forgets to knot either end of a rappel rope. diaper seat: article of climbing used by novices who are still learning self-control. el capitan: expedition leader in a spanish speaking country. essentials: everything you left at home. expedition: highly organized way to spend a great deal of money in a relatively short period of time. the best are those in which your time and someone else's money are involved. exposure: result of answering the call of nature during a climb. fall: good time of year for climbing. falling barometer: barometer that has slipped out of a pocket when climbing. final pitch: act of throwing down a rope without securing one of the ends. flake: weird, erratic climber. fluke, snow: unexpected happening on a glacier. foot jam: offensive accumulation between the toes, caused by wearing the same socks for several days. free climb: climb done without expensive equipment. there are cheap thrills, too. friction: what often develops among members of an expedition. front points: forwardmost extremities of a female climber on a chilly morning. goose down: a way to get a slow climber to descend quickly. gorp: mealtime sound made by a hungry alpinist. handhold: what two climbers do during long bivouacs on narrow ledges. hardware: metal which when draped around the neck gives a musical accompaniment to a climb and provides ballast to regulate a climber's ascent. heading: going to the latrine. headlamp: lantern left shining at night to mark a latrine. hero loop: aerial maneuver performed by a valiant climber. hip belay: belay by an unsquare climber. hoarfrost: icy stare given by a coldhearted woman of ill repute. hold: what you try to do when you wake at 4am after having overrehydrated yourself. horn: malady brought on by being too long alone in the mountains. ice screw: drastic cure for a severe case of horn. igloo: (british) latrine for igs. J amming,nut: very painful way to climb. not: configuration often discovered in the middle of a rappel rope during a rappel. known point: (navigation) figment of the imagination. landmark: visual pattern similar to a water mark, only dry. layback: what a climber looks forward to at the end of a day. line of weakness: long involved explanation for not attempting a route. lunge: skillful or desperate move, depending on who is doing it and why. mashies: reconstituted freeze dried potatoes. matterhorn: trumpetlike musical instrument favored by swiss mountaineers. mohair: hair of a mo. see scree. mole foam: frothy exudation that appears on the lip of a furious mole. moraine: forecast for an extended period of wet weather. myth: accounts of adventure related by a mountaineer. navigation: science of becoming temporarily disoriented. because instruments don't lie, and because art is truth, mountaineers are never lost. off width crack: remark made in a smartass manner. organized: state of complete chaos. orienting: preparing for a trip to asia. picket, snow: rank and file member of union internationale des associations d'alpinisme publicly protesting grievances in the dead of winter. piton: antique metal work. rainfly: pesky insect that only appears during wet weather. rock band: enthusiastic group of musical noisemakers. rockies: very small stones. runner: very fast climber. rurp: sound made by a climber after downing a hasty lunch. scree: sound made by a mo when its hair is being removed. see mohair. shock: large fish that can bite your leg off. chiefly of concern to sea cliff climbers. shawangunks: gunks that belong to shawans. ski mountaineering: simplified way to move fast, fall a short distance, and remain uninjured. usually. sling: versatile strap dating to biblical times. when david the israelite descended into the vale of elah, after a hard day of climbing, he used a sling to slay the philistine goliath. smear: long, vertical mark left on rock surface by a climber whose friction move has failed. smokies: little cigars, cigarettes, etc. snow bridge: card game played on a glacier. as in other alpine endeavors, tricks are common, and there is always a dummy. stance: pose struck by a climber when an appreciative audience is watching. sun balls: painful affliction common to male alpinists who climb nude. terminal moraine: the last glacier you'll ever climb. unzip: simple yet spectacular way to remove protection. vertical feet: what a mountaineer has on the ends of his legs when lying flat on his back. waist band: group of paunchy musicians. water knot: rope configuration used by sea cliff climbers who tend to fall a lot. watershed: small, rustic shed used to store water. walking: uncommon means of mountain locomotion. see fall, glissade, etc. webbing: rope that has been stepped on so many times it is flat. wilderness: archaic word used to refer to the space that once existed between urban areas and which is now used as a proving ground for 4-wheel drive vehicles. wilderness act: short theatrical performance done in the backcountry. wilderness travel: art of avoiding snowmobiles, four wheel drives and oil wells. wind pants: short, labored breathing. yeti: (also called abominable snowman, bigfoot, sasquatch): large upright creature that roams the high country. because no anthropologist has ever seen a yeti, its reality is discredited by science. on the other hand, there is no evidence of a scientist ever having been seen by a yeti, which makes the former's existence equally doubtful. zip: placing protection while climbing. compare with unzip. zizz: sound made by a rope running without restraint through a braking device during a free rappel. the sound changes markedly when joined by a piece of clothing or hair (see scree).

quote: Originally posted by iain: jon will appreciate this one: Fuckin hi-lar-ious. the photo, not that the dude died. That sucks.

I think this is courtesy of John Long, stolen from some site in Sweden: For your next trip to any rad sportclimbing area... Here's a brief list of terms to allow you to converse freely with the species known as the "sportclimber"! (some of these were plagerized from the Sport Climbing Connection) Onsight Free Solo Angus MacGillicuddy has never been to Mt. Hogwash. Walking along the base, Angus spots a line of bolts up an overhanging schist intrusion. He fancies the look of the route, laces up his boots, blows his nose, chalks up and gapes at several girls from the Swedish Sport Climbing Team, who are limbering up and changing into bright-colored tights. Psyched, Angus winks, spits into his palms, then solos up the schist intrusion. Free Solo Angus has been to Mt. Roughage several times. On two occasions, he's climbed The Watercloset, a difficult route that follows a basalt intrusion via chancy dynamics. Angus has it in mind to solo The Watercloset. Now at the base, he laces up, touches his toes, exhales hard, then solos the route. Worked Solo Angus has been coming to Mt. Peatmoss for 11 years. He's lead Compost 50 times, toproped it 70 times, and, also on a toprope, has worked the crux bit over and over till he knows it better than the hair on his palms. Now he plans to `solo' Compost, an intricate razor job up a monzonite intrusion. At the base, he flexes his guns, flexes his back, flexes his loins, jumps onto Compost and solos it in six minutes. Onsight Flash or A Vue: climb the route without any falls, without having tried it before, without watching anybody do it, and without any special knowledge (beta) on how to do the moves. Angus has never been to Mt. Basura. One route, The Offal, takes a loose line up a steep albeit trashy intrusion. Angus racks up and leads The Offal straight off, placing all the gear. He takes no falls, nor a single rest on the line. Beta Flash: no falls, without having tried it before. Usually with some knowledge of the moves gained by watching people or instructions on how to do the moves. 3. flash with running beta: no falls, first try, but with somebody telling you how to do the moves as you progress. This is Angus' first trip to Mt. Gismo. At the local pub, Angus runs into Jack Nastyface, the local hardman. Since Angus is buying, Jack describes down to the last pinky lock the sequence for climbing The Honest Indonesian, an improbable Mt. Gismo test piece following a sketchy dun intrusion. With the sequence memorized, Angus flashes the route the next afternoon. Deja Vu It's been some years since Angus was last at Mt. Tallywhacker. He remembers trying the Chamfered Luby -- and failing miserably. The successive lunges along the scarlet intrusion notwithstanding, he remembers little about the route. But Angus is a better climber than he was 7 years ago, and the next morning, he manhandles the Chamfered Luby on his `first' try. (all three flash terms can be applied to a toprope ascent, but the terms below apply only to leading) Red Point: lead with no preplaced gear (other than bolts or normally fixed gear like pitons). Usually this implies that it's not your first try, falls were taken, etc., but no gear was left in place to assist the lead. Removing all the quickdraws (especially the top one) is often time-consuming, so if others are waiting to do the route, pinkpoint style (below) is often used (and some people inaccurately call it redpoint also) Angus has tried to climb The Widget on Mt. Sputnik for five years now. He's aided it, toproped it, studied it from a helicopter, on jumars, with opera glasses. Finally, he leads it, no falls, placing the gear as he goes. Pink Point: lead with preplaced gear (usually quickdraws clipped to the bolts). The rope is not left in place after falls -- it is pulled through the gear, which is reclipped on the next attempt. Sometimes the quickdraws are placed by other people and left in place for many weeks. Angus has been trying to climb The Bullwhip on Mt. Maplethorp for 10 years. He's gotten close, and after hosing the Windgate intrusion with Gumout, squeegeeing it clean, then buffing each hold with 600-grit sand paper, he wants to try the lead once again. But first, he raps down the route, places all the gear, then flashes the lead. Yellow-Point - A no falls top-roped ascent, or Yellow-Point - A climb where you were so scared you almost pee'd your pants. Brown-Point - similar to Yellow-Point except for more severve consequences. Brown Point Angus has never tried Intelligent Gas From Uranus on Mt. Bachar. He starts up the blank face between the two brown intrusions full of intentions to make a flash ascent. Things go bad in a hurry, and Angus soon is hanging from the cord. He's quickly on a toprope, pulling through the first two grim bits. Later, stumped at the crux, he incorporates a side rope, one etrier and a `come along' belay. This makes Angus feel like he's got the strength of 10 men as he works out the crux. Within hours, he stands on the summit, ready to rap down and place the gear for a `pink point' ascent the next day. Other Techniques Yoyo: preplaced gear; the rope is left clipped through [most of] the gear after each lead attempt. Other terms can be used to describe non-free ascents. For example, hangdogging There are other procedures that Angus sometimes employs in his quest for the summit that are worth mentioning. For instance, he's been known to `hangdog.' That is, after he falls off his lead attempt, he won't hesitate to hang on the rope, rest, then carry on fully refreshed. When Angus first went to Mt. Pipedream, he didn't have time for too many shenanigans, but he did want to bag The Tiajuana Virgin, a nearly non-existent line of pockets along an ivory intrusion. To save time, he rapped down to the crux, worked it out on a toprope, then rapped to the deck and `red pointed' the route. Thus, Angus had `speed dogged' the route (also known as `greyhounding'). Also at Mt. Bachar, Angus took a liking to The Pipefitter. He did not, however, like the looks of the first bolt, which was 30 feet off the talus. Angus needed a `coon dog' to go up and fetch him that first clip. Shawn had already mounted The Pipefitter 69 times before, and gladly `coon dogged' for Angus. He clipped the first bolt, lowered, then handed off the blunted sharp end for Rover to take over -- in relative safety. Angus encountered a similar situation at Mt. Hamstring. The Rocky Mountain Oyster followed an overhanging intrusion, and the first bolt, way the hell up there, already had a quickdraw on it. Nobody's fool, Angus took a long bight of rope, twirled it over his head like a lariat and hurled it at the in situ quickdraw. The bight of rope hit the dogleg carabiner at the gate and with a click!, Angus was clipped in! He named this method the `rodeo clip.' Rodeo-Clip - While hanging off of a bolt you pull up a bunch of rope and flip it up to the quick draw clipping the rope through a biner. Angus certainly is not one, but he's known a few `dog's asses.' These are craven swine who cannot accept defeat and alter an existing route to make it easier for them to scale, placing additional bolts, chiseling holds, etc. Starvation, thirst and financial ruin to them all. Terms like redpoint are used to give additional details on what tactics were used to free climb a route. For example, was the route done first try with no falls, or were several attempts/practices required? The purpose is to shed some light on the abilities of the climber (at least on that day); in contrast, the difficulty of the route stays constant and is reflected in the rating. involves practicing the moves of a climb and resting or aiding on the gear instead of lowering to the ground or to a natural rest after each fall. Of course the latter never happen on sport routes since they are always so safe. Gee wiz all those bolts nice and close together. Alpine route - Anything out of earshot of the car radio. Auto Beta: When a belayer or observer starts giving you blow-by-blow descriptions of the route and how to climb it when you're already on it. "Shut up man.. there you go into auto beta mode again!" Bagged: Short for sandbagged. Cheese: Adjective for an easy route.. "That route was cheese!" Crater: To fall and hit the ground. To take a fall to the ground; i.e. "He cratered." Dirt Me: Lower me to the Ground. Dog It: Hanging by the rope to rest then finish the route. Gush: See Crater. Essential Rack: A Daytimer and the keys to the Saab Turbo. Honed: Excellent muscle definition... climbing well. "Dude you're Way honed!" Heinous: Either way hard or way bad.. "Oh man that's Heinous.." or "Oh man that's a heinous approach!" Pumped: Forearms bulging.. visibly pronounced blood vessels. Toasted: Way past "pumped" take a rest day. Offwidth: A crack too big to jam, too small to chimney. See "Heinous" Peel: To come off.. fall or slip.. "Watch me dude I'm gonna peel!" Perfect Belay: The front bumper of a Ford F150. Pig: The haul bag. Puke: See offwidth. Run-out - The bolts are more than 5 feet apart. Screamer: A BIG whipper See also Dave Roberts classic piece "Bad Day at Practice Rock". Talus Food: A climber who has cratered. See Crater. as in "...Dhude...blow that clip and you're talus food..." The Tree: J-Tree national monument The New: New river Gorge The Forks: Paradise Forks Trad: Traditionalist. Places and removes all gear on the route (unless fixed- bolts or pitons). Too much work for sport climbers. Wank: See hangdog. Wanker: One who engages in the practice of wanking. Whipper: A long lead fall.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Lost a red REI trekking pole on 8/13 either in the approach gulley to Sharkfin Tower right off the Quine Sabe glacier or at the base of the SE Ridge. If anyone happens to stumble across it please email me at Lucky14956@aol.com. Thanks in advance. Tim Good riddance. Those REI poles blow ass. I have a spare Leki Makalu I got from Air Barker if'n ya need one.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: quote:Originally posted by fredrogers: A little too ghetto bling-bling with the bright red, but that dulled considerably with trail dust. Fred Rogers aka the mountain pimp daddy If'n I iz the mountain pimp, you be my ho', biatch.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: quote:I sport climb and I trad climb. I like both. but "the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear... Here, let the Doctor spell it out: it's S-A-R-C-A-S-M. Well here, let me spell something out for you: Sarchasm- the distance between your humor and the intended audience...

Ended up buying a pair of the Trango S's. Put 8-10 miles on them with no blisters this weekend. Very light- almost like a high top- and climb very well. If you buy these boots, do yourself a favor- replace the shitty factory insoles before you hike 100'- I didn't and was sorry. A little too ghetto bling-bling with the bright red, but that dulled considerably with trail dust. Picked them up at Second Bounce- they have a few pairs in stock still.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: It's basically the accepted means by which one progresses in sport climbing, as the emphasis is on pushing ones physical limit, not the technical mastery of quickdraw placement. /QB] I sport climb and I trad climb. I like both. but "the technical mastery of quickdraw placement"? It's either left clip or right clip. Not the same as plugging gear...

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: Yes, I did have the advantage, but I may have missplaced it. The Towers ROOOOOOOCK!! Okay, so I've called around and have apparently missed out on the Towers (can't find them in my size and they've been discontinued). The Garmont Ferratta was suggested as an alternative. Any one have experience with these boots or have a recommendation for a mid-duty boot for some one with wide feet (Sportivas are out)?

quote: Originally posted by MATT B: I keep hearing of people being described as “experienced” climbers by the media and other climbers. What does this mean? If I read something in the newspapers about an experienced climber it could mean anything. I find that most reporters are clueless and will label anyone that has been up more than one mountain as experienced. If you where to label someone as experienced, what would you mean? Umm. Graduating from the Mountaineers basic course?

quote: Originally posted by Nelly: Sunday we're heading up to try the "Flycatcher" route (east buttress)on NEWS. Anyone have any beta or words of advice to offer. I don't, but if you can get your hands on a copy of Burdo's N. Cascades Rock, it has a *seemingly* really good topo and route description. I've had my eye on that route for awhile. Please post a TR when you get back. Good luck!

quote: Originally posted by sayjay: Hey y'all, I'm recovering from surgery and can't yet return to technical climbing but I'm dying to get up in the mountains... and I need to get myself back in shape! Looking for a good day hike. Don't need to reach a summit, but a good amount of altitude gain and a view or two are required. Anyone out there have a favorite -- within a couple hours' drive from Seattle but NOT Mt. Si or Pilchuck!-- to suggest? Mailbox Peak- 4,000 gain over 3 miles. Mt. Tenerriffe- next to Si- is about the same and 14 miles, but all on old logging roads. You'll have it to yourself though. Both on the I-90 corridor and less than an hour from Seattle. In spite of the crowds, I do like the hike up to Lake Serene at the base of Mt. Index- 3500 feet or so and 6-8 miles. That plus a stop at the Sultan Bakery make for a nice day trip.

Baker via Colman Demming isn't a bad idea. Saturday drive (3 hours from SEA) to TH, hike in and bivvy, Sunday climb and out. Or do it in a day. Mailbox Peak, while not a "climb" is a nice way to gain 4,000 feet over 3 miles. Do it with a pack for extra! fun.

Dr. Sniff and the Tuna Boaters (Index) Cunning Stunt (Index) Spermburpers from Fresno (Tulomme) Urine Too Deep (Squish) The Bong (Josh)

just getting this back up in the top 40. BTW- Elysian brewery gets the Best Belgian Ale for their "Bete Blanche." Smooth, sweet and dangerous.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: Tell the ranger you are with the Mountaineers and he will understand why you have a huge pack for a day trip to SCW. "A Thermarest is the 11th Essential, I swear!" That would mean that there had to be at least six of you together though... And I thought the thermarest was the 12th essential, right after the REI insulated altte mug.

quote: Originally posted by Greg W: What type of gear? Softgoods or hardware? : Sorry, should have been a little clearer. Specifically interested in your opinions on softgoods (apparel, sleeping bags, tents, boots, packs, etc.)

I'm doing a little research project and need some input from all you spraymeisters. Who do you think makes the best gear and why? Who makes the worst? Who sold out? TNF? Marmot? Arcteryx? Mountain Hardwear? Moonstone? Sierra Designs? Helly Hansen? Cloudveil? Mammut? Wild Things? Jagged Edge? Solstice? Others? TIA for your thoughts. [ 07-03-2002, 10:12 AM: Message edited by: fredrogers ]

Also- watch as you come out of the trail into the Snow Creek Parking lot. I've had some close calls with the Rangers checking permits (and parking passes)- so if Freddie's there- move quick to the car and haul ass out of there. It also helps if you don't look you've been in *overnight*- put your thermarest inside your pack and say you were up at Snowcreek Wall.

quote: Originally posted by Dennis Harmon: Darn it, I've always wanted Mt.Goode myself, but I was never privy to the 'Information Super Internet" in order to scope route info on the mountain. Why don't you just go and try to climb it? If you fail you fail. But if you succeed, you might actually have something to feel proud of. Just a suggestion. Dennis Dennis- you forgot to mention something about bolts or Gen-Xer's in this post. While the 'tude is still evident, you're letting your fan club down.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Beckey Phrases Which Indicate Sandbag: Class 4 with aid moves Obvious gully Interesting and delicate climbing Mixed 4th and 5th class Class 3 with exposure and looseness Shoulder stand Bolt ladder (now freed) Protection sometimes difficult Locate trail and hike Trophy size rodents Freed after some preinspection and preplacement of gear Time: a long day Dru- you forgot "a nice alpine outing".

quote: Originally posted by Dru: quote:Originally posted by Terminal Gravity: I liked the TR so much that I acctually read it 3 times; start to finish. I even read it backwards! you guys are merciless, but funny.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: Wow.......the status of alpine buddy has been awarded to me! I feel so honored! Matt - Thats 4 children and one on the way. What do you think happens on rest/weather days! But I'm going to need some help taking care of the all those little shits. Hence, I'll need Cavey to teach them how to drink. Mike Adamson to teach then how to kick ass. Erik and Matt to teach them how to smoke out proper like. Dru to teach them how to spray. Fred Rogers to teach them how to milk unemployment. Crazy Jamie to teach them ...... we'll get back to this subject later. Really, it was a fun weekend. Cavey and I busted up Angels Crest. Good climb and great position. Fun tree climbing as well. The Law Goddess cranked hard for her first time at Index. Sorry about the sandbag on P1 of Jap Gardens. Its to nice to be typing at the computer so I'm gonna go for an enduro hike with Fred Rogers. Maybe he can be alpine buddy next week? Tim- you forgot the 3 kids from your three wives in Utah. That makes 7 that I know about. Don't you think it'd be nice if you didn't name every one of them Tim, though? Oh, that's right, you just use their last names.

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: Thanks for the info. I must buy a few more smellmegood trees to avoid the stench in TimL's auto and some for FB's on the way back if I be sittin round I'd be more worried about Tim's car... at least you won't get stopped. No way they're going to search it once they get a whif of the Yosemite death smell.