fredrogers

quote: Originally posted by payaso: How much do you usually pay for resoling rock shoes? Think it's about $45.

quote: Originally posted by slothrop: Eh, Clog cams aren't that bad. Granted, the placement of the sling is a bit annoying (it lies right where your thumb wants to go), but they are decent for my purposes. Maybe I just don't climb hard enough... oh, and thanks for the #4, Fred, it was just the piece I needed while climbing at Smith last week Slothrop- The #4 felt the most solid- I ended up with doubles in the 3" camalot and unemployed, that's why I sold it to you. I mangled the 1" pretty badly just getting out of Karate crack (thanks TimL) and have also managed to do a number on the 1/2"- I've had my BD's for 4 years and they're still in much better shape than the Clogs, which are less than a year old and placed less often. Glad to hear it's getting used though. I hate to see gear sit unused.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Meg er en smart Normann. Unfortunately, Dr. Flash Amazing's knowledge of Norwegian is limited to phrases similar to that above, and only useful for playing The Dozens with kindergarteners or the mentally deficient. Jeg er en lutefisk. Well, you should do just fine on this site- or in Oslo.

Craig- My experience has been that Metolious cams are much better in the smaller sizes- under 1/2" (either TCU or FCU) than the Camlots of the same size. I bought the .2, .3 and .4 and have had a lot of trouble with the .2 and .3 getting stuck- even without falling on them. They are harder to place in than the Metolious TCU's and are more expensive. Get the Metolious cams for the smaller sizes. I was lucky enough to prodeal BD cams from the .5 to the 3", so that's what I started with. From using using partner's racks- I don't like the bigger Metolious cams (over 2")- as they tend to walk and just don't feel as solid as BD's in comparble sizes. They are lighter and cheaper, but I'll suffer the weight for that "dry and secure" feeling. I sold all my hexes- and do regret it. They do work better in some places (like the Tieton) and are much lighter for alpine stuff. Whatever you do, don't buy Clog cams. I was suckered by the price and have either sold them or given them away. That's my $0.02

quote: Originally posted by lizard brain: quote:Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Jeg er en fiske puhler. ...og et stort drittsekk. Hvad er det med Normand? Kan i ikke vare sod mod hinadanen? Vaere rolig, i to.

quote: Originally posted by JuanTwoPunch: Copy that. Hell, I'd take my loafers to the guy. John Sharp If I owned any loafers, I'd take them there. I had one pair of climbing shoes resoled by Dave Page- never again. 8+ by Ramuta and no problems.

quote: Originally posted by trask: I'd like to help but I feel a turtlehead poking out, and he's waving and grinning and spitting-up corn. I best be off to the crapper. Thanks for taking it to a whole other level Trask. LMAO.

quote: Saturday morning after a false start, Fred forgot the topo in his car, he headed of the Leavenworth and made the hike up to the Pearly Gates. [/QB]Um, who lost the 2 copies given to him already... Hmmm... could it be TimL? Maybe? Great. Okay. Great.

quote: Originally posted by wayne1112: vol 1;33, vol 2:7(alpine) Kearny:23, 50 classics:12 It seems Kearney did all of his selected personally, is that biased then? I just got the book for my birthday and, thanks to on-going unemployment, have read it cover to cover. I dont think it's based, just a different take on the climbs- I think the personal narrative adds to the route description. All I can say is that the Tuning Fork on Mt. Bardean and the S Face of Inspiration have been added at the top of my list- right after Challenger. Those look like amazing lines. Now I just need to get the set of Alpine Balls I put on my Christmas wish list. I don't know if Jim or Peter did all the ones in Select Vol. 1 and 2- I suspect more in Vol. 1 since more of the photo credits appear to be Jim's. I've done a bunch of the climbs in Vol. 1 and Vol. 2, and have generally found those in Vol. 1 to be of better quality. Anyone else have the same experience?

quote: Originally posted by rodeo: Looking to do something, anything this weekend. I was thinking Kyes Pk or something like that. Maybe even Baker. Any takers? (--Climb on,,, "Sure it's legal..." The approach to Kyes is fun. Nothing like high angle bushwacking. We didn't even come close to climbing it when we went in (tried to do it in a day in June)- the snow finger leading to the rock was steep and with a really bad runout (you fall you die). Were I to go back, I'd take a couple of pickets (maybe screws this late in the year) for running belays. But I don't think I'll go back... there's better rock to climb than the Monte Cristo area.

quote: Originally posted by michael_layton: Thanks guys! Check Burdo's N Cascades Rock Book for beta. There are two routes on Cedar Creek Wall documented in his guide. Both circa 12-14 pitches and 5.9+. I think the book may be out of print, but I saw a bunch of copies at Second Ascent not so long ago.

.[/QB] You've never climbed alpine "rock" in Oregon have you? You'll note that no where did I say there was no better climbs out there, just that I enjoyed this one. Hell, I plan on doing it again someday. Of course, YMMV.[/QB] Actually, I've climbed Broken Top, North/Middle Sisters and Mt. Washington. You're right- the rock on E. Wilman's was much better. I'd forgotten what true choss is... I think it would be much better in early season- the steep snow and coulior would add greatly to its appeal.

quote: Originally posted by rbw1966: quote:Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by fredrogers: Not much to recommend, unless you like large talus fields, shitty, wet, loose exposed approach gullies and loose, crappy rock all the way to the top of the climb. What's no to like about that? This is cascadeclimbers.com and that sure sounds like the Cascades to me. I personally liked the diversity of the adventure: long drive (I'm in Portland), followed by car bivvy, followed by alpine bike ride, followed by lovely hike, talus scramble, sketchy approach and crappy weather for the actual climb. Yup, its the cascades all right Wow. You drove from PDX for that? Sounds like a rationalization to me... just kidding. Yes it's the Cascades, yes, it was an alpine adventure, the whole package was kinda cool, yes I'm glad I did it, but I'm of the opinion that there are much better climbs out there. Like the Tooth, Cavey's favorite.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: quote:Originally posted by mattp: quote:Originally posted by fredrogers: Not much to recommend, unless you like large talus fields, shitty, wet, loose exposed approach gullies and loose, crappy rock all the way to the top of the climb. What's no to like about that? This is cascadeclimbers.com and that sure sounds like the Cascades to me. Thats what I thought as well. And what a great experience it was! I think the approach gulley would be fun in early season but it was a bit sketcky yesterday. Great views of all the surrounding peaks. I bet there are plenty of great winter climbs in that area. I think the best part of the trip is driving out on the mountain loop highway and seeing a rabbit in the middle of the road jump vertically 3 feet in the air as we passed. It was really funny. Guess you probably had to be there to get full value. Adventures in snafflehound land!Ah, how quickly the memories fade...

I take by the recommendation of E Wilman's Spire. Not much to recommend, unless you like large talus fields, shitty, wet, loose exposed approach gullies and loose, crappy rock all the way to the top of the climb. You will find a lovey 1 nut rap anchor at the top of the gulley, a half-assed Abakolov (sp?) down from that and some nice old slings for the last rap through the waterfall at the base of the gulley.

quote: Originally posted by Juan: I need ideas for a weekday day trip this week. Alpine to mid-fifth. Don't mind hiking up to 8 miles each way or so. Help me out guys and gals. I'm having brain lock and can't think of anything original. Sharp E wilman's spire (headed there tomorrow with Tim L), Vesper peak N Face, Thompson W Ridge, Ingalls Peak N Ridge and S Face (do both, otherwise the walk is too long), Kangaroo Temple N Face or SW Face, Liberty Bell NW Face...

quote: Originally posted by plexus: That was nice of them. How long did it take you from car to summit? Beckey says 6.5 hours and I have a hard time believing that. Maybe 5-6 hours? I don't remember. We knew that it would be crowded and were in no hurry to get stuck behind a large group. I wouldn't make that hike just to do the N Face again (2 pitches, maybe 5.4?), but it might be worth it to so the NW Face, the N face and the little tower across the way.

quote: Originally posted by Gary Yngve: My parents are visiting in two weeks, and I'm taking them backpacking through the Enchantments (if we can get permits). They got $50 from a friend to purchase gourmet camping food. I've never bought the stuff because it's just too pricy for me... I stick to the couscous and HC. Anyone have any favorite entrees? Doesn't have to be MSR... there's also Mountain Gourmet? Alpine Aire Sierra Chicken, Backpacker's Pantry Lasange and Black Bean Tamale Pie (good, but tough on the gut the next day), Mountain House Honey Lime Chicken and Chicken Pot Pie. Ditto the thought that it actually serves one- but I have found that trading halves with some one else makes the meal more palatable. Try also buying ramen and adding freeze dried beef and your own spices. Lighter and cheaper but more time consuming. Lipton makes lots of really easy freeze dried noodle dishes (garlic, stroganoff), that are pretty tasty when combined with a little cheeze and/or freeze dried meat. My latest discovery is Idahoan freeze dried potatoes- butter/herb and four cheeze are the best. Serves two heaping helpings for each package.

quote: Originally posted by TimL: At Index try GM pitch 2 & 3 both 5.9. Try Damnation 5.8 at Castle Rock in Leavenworth and Hidden Crack 5.8 at Givlers Dome. The Flame 5.8 at Midnight gets wide as well and is really fun with a setting that can't be beat. There's a 5.9 OW on Madsen's Butress in the Icicle as well- can't remeber the name- but it's to the right of Cucaracha. Bring a couple #5's for that one. Flake Crack on Snag Crag (by Duty Dome) gets wide at the top and goes at 5.7 I think. Forking Crack 5.9+ on Icicle Buttress- that and ditto on Hidden Crack. Both kicked my ass.

quote: Originally posted by plexus: Lizard brain, What way did you go up The Temple? We put off the climb until Tuesday cause I saw the Mounties were going to be up there and also saw the weather forecast. Instead we went and saw the movie "Signs" good but not nearly as good as "Unbreakable" Funny. TimL and I went in to do the NW Face on the Temple and ended up doing the N. Face- first pitch on the NW Face looks rotten and crappy. Ended up sharing the raps in the start of the rain with the Mounties- who graciously let us use their double ropes for the last two raps. Started up the pinnacle across the way when the thunder started. Found a sweet cave under a huge boulder to wait out the worst of it...

Jazzy Document, 5.9, Duty Dome in Leavenworth (it's the one on the cover of the guidebook).

Any one done the route and want to share? How's the descent? Good old Beckey 4th class or mellower? TIA. Fred

Anyone have any reccos for a single person tent- super lightweight? Headed out on a 6 day solo trip and I'm not sure I can stand a bivvy sack for that long. Cheers. Fred.

quote: Originally posted by Matt Anderson: Absolutely the best place I have found for shoe repair (rock and otherwise). The owner's son is a climber, the whole family is super nice, happy to speed things along when you need something sooner than usual. Fantastic attention to detail. They deserve all the business we can throw at them! Matt Hell yes. I've had them re-sole various shoes 5-6 times and have been very pleased with the results. Much better than Dave Page for rock shoes, IMHO. You can also drop your shoes off at Vertical World- Ramuta does all the re-soling for them.