jshamster

Tanks. Did you guys climb CBR yesterday?

No big gear or bolts necessary! Secure left leg belay all the way up the wide crack. Maybe some other part of that pitch is 5.9, but not the OW. Cheers. Jimbo

Not that it makes a big difference, but it was a red tcu. Still on my aid rack, just kinda bent.

Ashford = Scale burger Hwy. 2 = AlpenBurger in Startup Hwy. 20 = Good Food or Buffalo Run in Marblemount Hwy. 542 = lot of options between Glacier and B'ham. Northfork Beer Shrine is my fav. Hwy. 90 = no idea. I don't ever drive it. Cheers. Jimbo

Check it yo. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/800451#Post800451

38 yrs. young. 1 child. I climb by myself at least a few times a year. Sometimes on a rope (aid), most times, not. I can only think of one climb that I have solo'd that I climbed beforehand. Diedre in Squamish. I definately keep soloing well below my roped free climbing limit. Hardest prob. around 5.8. I generally don't talk too much about solo climbing. My freinds and family know, and are okay with what I have done in the past. I have never felt the need to spray. I like moving quickly over rock/snow/ice. I like climbing with minimal gear and maximum peace. My favorite is having a general plan and moving forward as long as I feel comfortable. I have never felt bad about turning around because it was not the right time/day/climb to be on alone. My 2cents. Cheers. Jimbo

Fun times! Thanks fer writin' it up, Sol. Cheers. Jimbo

Cool. Thanks.

So has anyone used one of these puppies in COLD weather? I'm talking 20F or less. I have had very little success with canister stoves of any kind when it is actually cold outside.

When leading with the SP, I pretty much always use a rope bag at the belay to stack the rope. I do use backup knots most of the time. Probably not necessary, but gives me that warm, fuzzy feeling. I have never heard of an SP failing, but there are documented cases of GriGri failure with backup knot saving climbers ass. On another note, while I have heard that after 1/2 to 3/4 rope length of climbing the rope weight can cause slippage through both SP and GriGri, I have yet to have this happen to me. There are numerous discussions on variuos rebelay techniques to combat this problem on Supertopo and rocknoob.com. I'm too lazy to search and link right now. Cheers. Jimbo

Oh yeah. While I would love for the road to reopen, (planning on Jberg this year,) this may do a good job of weeding out a lot of the larger groups that tend to populate the area all summer. I have no problem walking farther if this is the case.

Der's also the Sibley Creek Rd. access for Eldo. MP 9 turnoff I believe. Fer Boston Basin, just walk or ride a bike. Cheers. Jimbo

As snoboy referenced below, libremapproject is the best thing I've found. USGS is public domain, and these folks have taken it upon themselves to get the whole country on the web.

I love my Silent Partner, but it is really not made for solo top roping. Works great for leading! For solo TR, I would go with minitrax or ushba.

I recently talked to a Petzl employee while climbing in Indian Creek. I asked about the recall of the Sarken because I really love them, and there is no replacement. Said Petzl employee said not to worry, only a couple/few had been returned prior to the recall, with one very vocal complainant. He also said that Petzl is extremely quality sensative, so they thought the recall was the best thing to do. Bottom line, no way am I sending my Sarkens back. Cheers. Jimbo

Down and right for sure. Took a few to figure it out, but it's all there. A most excellent route. Cheers. Jimbo

Sickness boys! Jimbo

The Russian Big Wall Machine keeps on rolling! Pretty amazing climb, but I hope not the winner of the next Golden piton/axe/schlong award. Obviously lots of room for improvement left for Steve, or any of the new breed of alpinists.

I love my Arcteryx bibs! Yes, they are freaking expensive, but I don't get wet in the wet Cascade snow anymore. As far as the sweat factor, I consider pretty carefully what I wear under them. Lift skiing I use a midweight layer, touring/climbing I use lightweight or silks. Cheers. Jimbo

Kinda funny. In the couple hundred times I've driven through there, I never did stop. Usually to freakin' hot! Do tell if you check it out. Where ya headed? I might be able to offer some suggestions. Cheers. Jimbo

I was going to say the moment I shut the front door, but I'll go with what Dru said. Cheers. Jimbo

It's not so much that the Sabertooths are bad, although I don't like the fit on my current boots. The Charlet Moser Sarkens are just so much better. Lighter, stronger, and more versatile for all alpine formats. The BD's are fine for glacier slogs, but I went beyond that pretty quickly. My 2 pesos. Cheers. Jimbo

I used this combo for a few years with no problems. The updated toe bail will probably solve your woes. That said, I will never use Sabretooths again. Cheers. Jimbo

Golden Road. .11+ Open for bidness. I know of at least three parties, including the FA, that have done it. Sounds 4 to 5 star. Cheers. Jimbo

Nice TR! Random beta spout out: the approach to Torment Basin is pretty chill. Did it last year, and came down Boston Basin trail. Starts somewhere near a bridge, an outhouse and picnic table. Cheers. Jimbo