Jens

A pigeon did that to me at the exact place you speak of. A footaball size piece of choss free fell and missed my head by about 4 inches. I didn't even hear it coming. And I don't wear a helmet at cragging areas.

We've got more running water and vertical than the other guys but sadly we haven't had the cold much in a long time. Give us the cold like we saw when I was younger and I'll never leave WA to ice climb. I remember living in Ellensburg and the national news had our town as being the coldest spot in the country for 5 days straight.

As my brother would say "excuses are like assholes and everybodys got one." If you weren't there: My points sheared through the "foam" while busting an upside down rest. ___________ Kudos to the cascade crags staff for the whole excellent gala and to Wayne for shredding!

Why do I always find myself (and see almost everyone else in the PNW) trying to be a season to early for everything? Case in point: *In about October everyone is (myself included) waxing their skis and sharpening their ice tools . One poster said they were hyped for ice by the chill in the air on sept. 20 (not even autumn yet). * Icicle creek canyon is packed with climbers seraching for dry rock in march but in June the place has really cleared out (of climbers at least). * Alpental is almost a ghost town some march days- but packed with people hiking the snow covered stumps in early Nov. *My partners are uninteresed in alpine rock in sept (perhaps the second best month!) There are dozens of other examples. Why do we all do this so bad here in the PNW? I'm just a guilty as the next guy.

Man, way to rub it in. Some of us WA folk with families have to wait for Lillooet. ____ And dru, do know the approx. elevations for most of the Phair creek gems? I've always wanted a USGS style map for all the Lillooet canyons but never been able to find one? Anyone have any ideas? (Other than driving to Vancouver.)

Wow! This is one of the best threads in a long time. ______ As someone earlier said, after people hit the 5-7 year mark they usually tend to be lifers beause climbing is a metaphor for life. _____ I don't have any research to back this up, but the vast majority of people that I have known who have quit climbing were spending most of their time bouldering and sport climbing. I'm not saying anything bad about those activities as I consider myself a sport climber. ______ I go through 2-3 year phases with my climbing. I may really get hooked on ski mountaineering for a couple of years doing it tons then almost cease the activity and move on to aid climbingand walls or "V" plastic pulling . Climbing is so diverse, you can "quit"part of it but still be climbing in some way shape or form . Thanks for all the great posts. Ireally enjoyed reading everyone's stuff.

A welcome alternative to a tent, maybe. But hunkered down in a foggy, damp, dark frozen cave with 4 inches of standing slush on the floor isn't my idea of enjoyment. It's certainly great to have it available as an option, and it may even save your toes in bad conditions, but winter climbing on Rainier is very different from summer. Unless you've been on Denali, you'll never know that kind of cold. I promise you that. I guess I should have used another word as winter mountaineering would seldom be called enjoyable when you are really cold. As for the hut, the real pain for me seems to be other climbers snoring and stuff. P.S. Thanks for the beta. I've summited Rainier in Winter and Denali

Gib ledges. If you go Sunday- Monday during a weather window, you might even get lucky enough to find some steps put in. And I've found that sleeping in the Muir hut in winter can actually be enjoyable when no one else is up at muir.

Was climbing up the 5.11 pocket route at the now defunct Ted's Wall at Fossil rock and shoved my fingers palm out into a undercling drilled pocket. I cranked back on the pocekt and heard the pocket creak like a piece of wood. I felt something fuzzy and looked in to see that I had shoved my fingers into a little bat! It didn't bite me though.

Saw the very first cc sticker on a car recently!

If the only thing you lack is avy knowledge..... If you have any backcountry ski buddies that know avy assemsent, teach em' crecasse rescue and take em'. Chances are they already in good shape, know how do deal with Cascade winter storms, know how to self arrest, and are not afraid of steep snow. good luck.

Alex and Jason did a first class job on the guide and definitely did their homework. I wonder how they got Jeff Renner to talk about what makes good ice conditons? I know Jeff has done some climbing-- perhaps a cc'er has tied in with him. Ps. Tom Brokaw and the Pope are or "were" also climbers.

I'd say yes under the conditions where this shortcut is really practical. In early season conditions no napalm/agent orange is needed. Later in the season you've probably got more to deal with than what a near-the-road defoliation session can address anyway. Yes, for much of the climbing season my brush is a non issue. As for taking the lower swithcback down the road as was mentioned by Phil, you can avoid much of the brush taht way but it is a slower route time wise and it always seems like such a psycholgical drag to start hiking down hill AND down a road away from the route to start your climb. I don't think we need to clear a short path but if everyone starts cutting in at the same spot (by a little clearing where people often pitch a tent), this will soon become a non issue. (Flagging tape anyone?). ------------------- The 37 switchback trail is one of the flattest anywhere.

Dad was afraid of heights but would still belay me. In my midteens I climbed Rainier with him and made fun of how slow he was going for most of the way. I'd sprint and then wait, sprint...then wait. After awhile though, the tables began to turn. He only seemed to get stronger as I got progressively more wasted. Never count dad out!

I wish.... that we could all get together and clear the 300 yards of annoying brush that goes from the parking lot upper picnic table to the clearing for the climber's route to Cascade pass. It is so short and it would be absolutely zero envornmental impact. It is such a drag to suit up for 10 minutes of burly brush and then strip down after entering the clearing. Anbody else do this different then I do (after all the snow is gone)? Would the park service ever sanction this? --------- PS. For those that think that everyone should stay on the trail all the way, there is , old pieces of cable, and ancient mule trails all over up there (mostly between 4,000-4,800 ft.) - so the impact of taking this shortcut is neglible. The tourist trail is ridiculously slow (37 swithcbacks). __________ perhaps this post will direct more traffic through the bushes and clear a path? ___________ Any thoughts? What do others do? The clearing can be accesed brush free from the lower hairpin but it is slower. ____

If you just want to get pissed on, just go to index. It seems like one little cloud has always hung over that place. Start watching Renner's little doppler blip. Clear state but sprinklin' at index. Stays wet way more days than N. Bend. Did they ever get rid of that REI storm simulator to test new rain shells? Did they ever actually let anyone try it?

My fav to. Castle Rocks!

What's your favorite crag? Not necessarily the best crag, but the one that you consider your "special place" here in the PNW. I don't mean area, but instead crag. Jens Klubberud

The partner who always wakes up in time, showers before a trip, tells good stories in the car, speeds when its his turn to drive, offers to carry the rope, likes wc forged friends, never complains, carries and shares a thermos of coffee, shares food, gets up any pitch, postholes more than his share, shares batteries, never makes you wait, gives you soft catches, never shortropes your clips, surprises you with beer hidden in the nearby creek at the parking lot, and helps you stay awake when you're driving home and haulicianting in the middle of the night even after no-doze and espresso. And then mails you double print pictures of the roll of film he shot!

Speaking ofPark and rides. What are eveyone's favorite secure meet spots to leave a car? The malls and grocery stores tow cars. I like park and rides. cracked Maybee I'll get to climb with you at Roundup. I think I'm hitting castle rock all day Friday and then hitting the Beer on Friday evening.

In my limited expereince, it seems be instead age dependent. It always seems to be the younger climbers that stand you up or make you wait an extra 45 minutes at some park and ride at 1:30 in the morning. While you are waiting for your slacker parnter you often see some funny sh*t going on at park and rides at 1:30 am on a Saturday or Sunday Morning! The older partners tend to be more dependable with times, places, alarm clocks and dates. _____ Close your eyes and imagine: You've been preparing for the last 3 days for your 23.5 hour car to car uber blitz. The weather looks great and then...... Your 20 year old partner shows up an hour late at the park and ride. Upon getting in your car, he announces that he needs to get breakfast and that he has a hangover and the stupids from earlier in the evening. Upon reaching Marblemount, he then tells you he needs to sort gear and pack at the trailhead and that he forgot his crampons and the only piece of gear you specifically asked him to bring over the phone. Been there....done that.....

I hope your friends can get their gear back. You may want to strike the word "booty" from your post . Most climbers refer to "booty" gear as stuck gear that other parties were unable to clean or get out. The gear is then open season to anyone willing to try to work it out. It does the environmnet and climbers good. Now if your partners just inadvertantly left a bunch astuff at the base, disregard my jabbering spray.

That is true, Harry. 50,000 square feet for parking alone. I would like to know which roof or other rock formation would make the best living quarters for homeless person. It is hard to take picture of roof that shows scale. Here is one of the smaller roofs at Lion's Head in Ontario. Largest roof I dealt with in Washington is Mastodon Roof. Speaking of Mastadon, did you lead with your feet or head? I tried this route many years ago (before I knew Leavittation) I got spanked really bad, and couldn't even finish it --even with hang dogging! The grade seemed stout? As for big cellings, The roof that Ride of the Valkyries or early morning overhang is pretty hurking. But I know we've got way bigger on some of the metamorphics of the high North Cascades my memory has left me. Anyone?

Cool, you are going to my favorite WA cragging area. Best Trad: Midnight and Castle Rock. Best sport: Rattlesnake Rock. Best easy to find and access bouldering: Swiftwater picnic area. All of these formations are found in Tumwater canyon off US highway 2. With the exception of perhaps Snow Creek Wall and the Givler's Dome area, rock climbing in Tumwater Canyon is much better than rock climbing in icicle creek canyon (A big plus when you've spent 2.5 hours in your car going over from Seattle). Plus it is often dry when the icicle is seeing light drizzle. Also most of the best routes are pre 1989.(even sport routes) as most of the newer routes are short scrubbed slabs or very short one half pitch cracks in obscure locations . Have fun. Hope I din't sound to opinionated

I bought the REI pants made from Schoeller Dynamic fabric you are talking about 5 months ago. They were on sale for 69 bucks. I love em. They have been light enough to wear sport climbing and have still worked great in light snow on Rainier. Cloudveil is selling the exact same pant for $165. I am pretty sure some sweatshop is ordering the bulk fabric from the Swiss and then sewing pant orders for various outdoor brands as is the case with most of our clothing. My only complaint is that the zippers on the pockets seem to work their way open while I am climbing to let snow in. Does anyone know how I can keep them closed without sewing them shut?