Jens

Thanks exit 39. ----- My preferred training method is the 12 ounce curl preferably the PBR or Miller High life variety and instead of Oprah it's Dr.Phil.

Agrees to your route and style shows up on time shows up already have eaten and gotten coffee and brought some for you. Drives Shows up with a full tank of gas Shows up having taken a shower and brushed teeth has an up to date trail park pass Got more sleep than you Has a massive collection of CD's for the car Is a good listener Speeds at least 20mph over the speed limit all the way to the climbing area Doesn't need to make any stops after picking you up Made 2 photocopies of the topos and laminated them at Kinko's Agrees to use his or her rope (which is brand new) Agrees to your rack NEVER suggests carrying hexes or heavy biners Carries the rope Carries more weight then you goes first in the brush Brings a digital camera Agrees to your organization and size of rack Climbs alpine style Postholes most of the way for you Has a photographic memory and a great sense of direction Hands you a piece of chocolate or cheese at a belay brings a thermos of coffee on ice trips Doesn't disagree when you decide to pass all the other parties doesn't have flatulence Doesn't trundle anything on you Climbs fast Solos the easier terrain with a pack and boots on Never short ropes you on a clip gives you soft catches when you fall If it is a new rock route, does all the scrubbing, buys the hangers and lets you have the first redpoint attempt. Likes to sign summit regiters Agrees to downclimb as much as can be imagined Hikes out fast doesn't need to stop to treat the water before you drink it Mysteriously has an extra bar for you on the way out Agrees to a beer at the local bar afterwards and listens to your chestbeating Tells you a climbing story or some cascade folklore that makes you laugh your ass off! Picks up the beer tab Has a well stocked cooler in the car Lets you sleep all the way home as he or she drives Drives at least 20mph over the speed limit all the way home If it is a new line, does all the writing and documentation Agrees to your next adventure the next weekend and repeats all of the above and shows up with that polypro shirt that you left in his or her car. Hands it to you washed. ------------- I wish that I could aspire to do half of the above

The system isn't perfect for Cascade routes but it works. A Euro "ED" style system may be a bit better. I personally don't care for traversing a bunch of summits or enchaining a bunch of Cascade routes just for the sake of calling it one "big new route". That being said, I love doing alpine enchainments though, but am hesitant to give them one grade. Somewhere in my head, how many hours I spend actually doing the technical climbing portions factors in. Not to chestbeat but...For instance, I've spent about 4 hours on the technical portions of the NE butt of Slesse which has been called VI many years ago and about 15 on the techincal portions my "CK" route on Johannesburg which I call grade V. I kinda liked the system Jeff Smoot made up for his cascade volcano guide- A 1-5 system that took in many factors. The way he had it presented in the front made perfect sense to me. I guess I've always really liked his guidebooks.

After just getting back from Europe and climbing with a bunch of Europeans, here are some of my obseravations about what our brethren across the pond are using (for alpine routes): * lots of softshell pants but almost no softshell tops. Everyone wears a hardshell top. Didn't see a softshell top almost the whole trip. * Millet gear is everywhere (packs, clothing, boots) * Pins are carried on every alpine route * GUs or bars are rarley used. Real food is eaten instead * Not much black diamond stuff is used * They carry way less stuff in their rucsacs than us. * wands aren't used anywhere * Gaiters are not as common * Soft pitons are preferred (even on granite!) * GPS units are more commonly carried * Ropes used are skinnier (but often in better shape) * Cams aren't common on alpine routes (it's pins and nuts) * Perrier or SanPelligrino is the hydration of choice!

Is it safe to have your body weight make huge swings during the year? I do all the areas of climbing and ski mountaineering, but try to drop weight fast for sport climbing. When I get hurt I put a ton of weight on fast.

Why do I get a serious finger injury about every 5 months? I stretch, climb smoothly, take glucosimine, and don't boulder much. My last one was at the Vertical World summer slam a month ago and is still bugging me bad. Here is my life: Train hard, eat brocolli, climb hard, get hurt, get fat- can't climb harder than 5.10, get well, train hard, eat brocolli, climb hard, get hurt and so on. This never-ending repeating cycle has been going on for about 10 years. Is it just a fact of life?

Ever notice how the lighter and more watery the beer, the tougher the climber or person drinking it is? The toughest dudes (climbers and non-climbers) I've known all my life were exclusive Miller High life, or Budwiser drinkers. Whereas many of my friends that are Seattle metrosexuals like the porters, ales, obsidians, and the like and scoff at "johnny-cash beer". -Dumb post but I'm bored and have a tweaked finger from the gym.

The only conglomerate I've bolted has been at fossil rock. We'd bolt the largish rocks not the "stuff" holding the cobbles together. A geologist told me that fossil wasn't welded tuff. When I climbed at maple canyon in Utah (cong.) I noticed the locals had done the same thing.

Just be aware that screeners are taking away ropes. I had a brand spanking new one thrown in the trash a few days ago. I won't bore you with the details, but I went through a huge ordeal and after playing all my cards, in the end, I had no recourse or other options. They were also going to take my harness and draws! -------------------------- I've had checked luggage lost and insurance is a racket, so I always try to carry-on as much "safe stuff" as possible. Perhaps not anymore.

Dude. ouch. I knew the guys working on this thing.

I owned a 9.8 new england rope about 10 years ago. I loved it and put a ton of sport falls on it. My mantra for ropes is "buy cheap and buy often"

How about "High Ice" - the 70's major hollywood motion picture filmed on Whitehorse mountain.

It could be urban legend, but about 10 years ago I heard through the grapevine that several eastern washington climbers had been working on a 5.12 route on Stuart. The route utilized bolts and was a work in progress that was a group effort over several seasons. I am probably way off on my details but I believe the route was named the "frog route" or some such business and was on the western aspect of the mountain. Anybody have any more info on this? My facts and memory could and probably are way off, but I know that such a project was being worked on.

Yes

For a couple of years, I only really read and posted climbing stuff in the climbing sections so I never really understood what happened to all those fellow climbers that fell off the radar or were banned. Kinda sad to see people come and go. caveman, adamson, dwayner, erik, etc.

Yes, anger management may help. How about a designated day where everyone who ever posts on cc chestbeats for a day in the spray section? "cc chestbeating day" Imagine all the craziness!

Way to get after it guys!

Nice job guys! I hope the "pu" came out of the pants in the wash. I'm trying to talk a dude into base jumping the route. I'd like to watch from the lake. Or even cooler would be watching a landing on the lake when it is frozen.

These and the Charlet Nomics may just be the ticket. I don't care what anyone says, the old Quark Ergos and the BD leashless tools suck on ice and don't swing worth a darn.

The Chimney would be 5.9 in Yosemite. The traverse pitch under the roof is much easier if you are under 5'9. Sure the CBR pitches would be down-rated if they were at the lower town wall but the ratings at index are different than the rest of the United States west of the Mississippi.

Kat, that is my leg exactly. Today the bruising appeared. It isn't on the front but instead on the back (where the rock didn't hit) It is about half the size of a soccer ball and totally purple.

The left option for the start looked like it had some water seeping down it.

I accidently left my sleeping bag on the approach to the curtis ridge route on Mt.Rainier. It is a red moonstone. If you grab it, I will buy you a beer.

On Johannesberg Mt. this week, I got hit by a large rock on the shin. It isn't black and blue but if I even bump it on something it feels almost electrical and is the worst pain I've felt in years. It has been almost a week now and the pain is still insane and hasn't gotten any better. For example, if I am getting in to my car and my shin touches or kinda bumps the car, the pain is debilitating. Is it just a bruise and I'm a wussy or could it be anything else? I wouldn't have posted, but the pain is bad.

Climb: South Face Direct- Forbidden Peak-South Face Direct Date of Climb: 8/5/2006 Trip Report: After a failed attempt on the first winter ascent of the south face direct route on Forbidden Peak with Pax a few years back, I came back to make a summer climb of the route. Greg Carter (a buddy from the Seattle Vertical World) and I left Seattle at 1am and eventually slogged to the base. We climbed through the overhaning band via the right hand option mentioned in the Nelson guide. A blue green streak marked the start. After a while, we reached the fixed belay high point from my winter attempt. After several more hours, we reached the final headwall below the summit. The 1977 route finishes on an easy slab that ends a few feet west of the summit. Just for kicks, I lead an overhanging corner a few feet to the left for a top out for a more demanding finish. The rock down low on the route was awful but up high it was awesome. In these modern times, the route was not difficult, however due to the mandatory 40 foot runouts on 5.9 friction face climbing, a winter ascent (without a lot of ice formed) may be at least a decade away in may humble opinion. The crux pitch as described in the guidebooks went at about 5.10a/b. On the way out, Greg spiked himself pretty bad with his crampon but managed to hike out without a single complaint. Today he got stitches! Other than the wound, It was a fine day out in the hills. Greg Having fun! The overhanging 10c pitch (just for fun) Gear Notes: No bug spray needed. Water available everywhere. Cascade river road is due for a grating.