Jens

Drew, Did you have a computer when you fell in so you could even post on various climbing websites from the bottom of the crevasse?

Does anybody have any experience with clipping two screamers together in a row?

Jim's book is very good.

I've got insommnia tonight and figured I'd post a bunch.

Ouch dude! That's the worst I've ever been flamed on cc! ------------------ How about an ice festival in state that doesn't really have any non alpine waterfall ice climbs (save a freak winter blast for a week or two) every now and then? How about a Phoenix ice festival next.

I'm curious how it was. I had an old rock climbing partner that climbed it this time of year and said he had a blast. The rangers told him he was crazy when he registered. He liked climbing choss and was an expert ice climber though. I know the first ascent was about now. Anyone venture up on the route just to get a different experience then the standard late spring early summer outing that we've all had?

And if you are really bored... to add to it, if you want, chime in how many times you've fallen in a real crevasse and held people falling into real crevasses (cascades only for this thread). I want to see where I stand.

The raptor bolt on thing is 170 bucks for something that is really cheap and easy for BD to make. Any engineers care to way in? I bet it costs BD about 7 bucks to make a pair of these things. Cool piece of gear but not much to it to warrant the price.

Camp Five? Kapowsin? (near my old stomping grounds) Somewhere way past Ravensdale or Hobart? Roy?

I saw two bears a little over a week ago when I was climbing sahale.

From least dangerous to most: (in an average weather year and note differences between high volcanoes and north cascade peaks) I'm only talking about crevasse falls. Not serrac collapse, avy, or the like. Any thoughts: safest to least: August- safest Sept July April March October May February June January November December (most dangerous) Please argue or disagree I know there are a ton of regional differences. Chime in with your two cents!

Great post and thread. ---------------------- How bad can HACE kill brain cells? When I was a little kid, I was like this child prodigy- I.Q. off the charts, playing Beethoven piano sonatas, winning national awards for writing literature, & lot of other stuff. When I was in my early teens, I raced up Mt.Rainier and got really really sick (bedridden for a week- & had to see a doctor!) and I've been as dumb as a brick ever since. This ain't a joke. Is this possible? I can't even think my way out of a tic-tac-toe match! And you guys have seen how bad I write! ----------- The funny thing now is that I'm super super strong above 20,000 feet. Maybe I killed off a bunch of grey matter and have some room to expand inside my empty skull?

Some of the BC folks that I've climbed with have told me that when the ice comes in, they read cc daily and then taper off for the rest of the year.

I saw em' in a shop for 29 bucks yesterday. I played with it for a while. It looked cool. Anyone use one yet? How is it? Have you tried all the functions drawn on the back? It's to bad simond gear is so hard to get around here. It is better than Black Diamond. They have a hugely comprehensive line of gear and they sponsor the best climbers in the world.

I've used it for both but only overnighted with huts. It allows your shoulder blades to swing ice tools nice and allow high-step rock-overs on rock. It replaces my Lafuma Patrick Gabarrou signature extreme model. (also better than any US or Canadian pack in my humble opinion).

Thanks. That's about what I figured.

Is it the northwest mentality? Like Mariner fans compared to Yankee fans? ------------------ "Northwest No": Uh....maybee....Ok....sometime......yeah.

Any guesses? A lot of my climbing partners have never posted on cc. Any guesses as to what portion of the climbing community post or read? At the climbing gym, a lot of folks that I climb with have never posted but read this site about once a month. Some of my older crusty alpine buddies never post also. Anyone math geek stat guy want to take a ballpark stab at this? Is this the largest local area climbing web site in existence?

I bought a Millet Mygal 27 pack this summer over in the alps and must say that is by far the best piece of gear I've bought in ages. It's the best pack I ever worn. I've used on several big routes of rock and ice and will be buying another one if and when it ever wears out. It's better than any other pack brand and is under a 100 bucks. If you are between 5'6 and 5'11 it should fit you well. Check it out if you've been shopping. I'm sure you can get one online.

When I heard about the deal pending several weeks ago, I was told that the first change was that the ice wall was going to be torn out. The emphasis for Everett was that it was going to be remodeled to be the premier bouldering mecca? As for the gri-gri's, I like em' for the top-ropes because I often grab a newbie I've just met to belay me for Tr's. As for leading, you can use anything you like and I only have my buddies belay me. Dueling gym threads don't serve anyone well but I must say that VW has a deep base of people that climb all styles from the highest mountains to the crags and the VW kids their have proven their meddle on European soil against the best and perhaps climb harder than any adults here in WA at onsighting. Picking a gym may be like apples and oranges for you. It's all about fun!

I can't stand daisy chains. I only use them on walls.

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Nice wayne!

Screw you. Parsifal is performed like once a century in most major cities.

I guess I missed this one the first time around Samuel Barber Dimitri Kablevsky (sp?) Charles Ives A.Bruckner Opera: Parsifal- By Wagner