Jens

I'll tell you my Oregon Jack story if I run into you at the Reynold's Bar this ice season.

Great question. My two cents for winter/ mixed If you use a cam, go with a cam that has teeth (like Wild country friends). Also the bigger sizes are better. I've fallen on big cams though on mixed and had em' pull. I personally don't care for Tri-cams, but many good climbers like them. Pins and pounded in stoppers rule. LA's are a great size but they are so heavy for alpine routes. Buy a couple of Knifeblades and a couple of angles and you are good to go! Happy trails

Was it me, or where their a lot more trick-or-treaters out and about yesterday? --- And If you were the superstitous type and had to pick the local climbing areas that would most likely to be haunted, where would they be? Mine: (not that I am superstitious) Oregon Jack, Lillooet BC (area said by the natives to be haunted -historical records say). Plus it had a blood streak on it that never seemed to go away fast after an accident Johannesburg, Mt. NCNP-secret cabins, a dark vibe, and it tries to kill everyone. Peshastin pinnacles on a late fall day with no other climbers or farmers around. Fossil rock-Ted's wall or fern gully areas (Jurrasic type landscape. I heard some really weird noises after dark) The climbs that approach through the ghost town of Monte Cristo. Tieton- "The cave" area for reasons that I can't divulge on this website. Unicorn Peak, MRNP Anyone else care to chime in?

I don't need em'... but folks those are awesome boots.

Wow that grasslands story sounds more like an ice trip! When I am onsighting at my limit, why do I have trouble reading the tuff with my eyes when it is sunny? Does anyone else have this problem? Is it a depth thing? Just for curiousity's sake, What rock type climbs the most similar in warm or cool temps?- Sandstone? Quartzite? Anotherwards- you can send when it is hot or cold?

Wow! that sounds wild! What kind of forces do some of these swings we've been talkng about create on ropes, harnesses, and anchors? Is it not much, or iis it enough to really stress gear?

What are the lower offs that have the best potential for huge rope swings? The scarface one at smith looks cool but is way outta my league to get it set up. Others the Drip wall at leavenworth has an awesome one as do both the world walls at 32. Any other really good ones? The grandaddy of them all would be to fix a huge one just for fun on the lip of the roof on colchuck balanced rock. I heard their used to be one on the visor up the icicle.

I can't go but I'm sure it will be fun.

Dude, where did you find "High Ice"? I'd love to watch it again. For those of you that don't know, It's filmed here on whitehorse mt.

Are those the same thing as my "man-pris"?

Thanks for all the insights.

I just saw some prettty good sized runnel routes (thick enough for screws) on the flanks of Whitehorse and one up in the Colonial cirque.

whatup ice ninja eric Yes a purchased day pass would work at all four locations.

I'm looking to make a couple of trips (two) to Canmore before mid December (because we have ice to climb around here by then). I'd like to make 2 trips in november or one in november and one in early dec. I've got one or two people that have given me maybes but I'd like to nail something down. I'm interested in like little 4 day trips. My car is dying so if anyone is interested and has a good vehicle that is what I am looking for. I'll give you gas money. If you can swing leads or follow WI5 that is a plus. Anyone interested? If you work Monday through Friday, you can just take two days off work and have a sweet 4 days of climbing. That is what I do every year. My main partner, ice ninja eric8 is pretty busy with school this ice season and is out of comission. ----------------------- One old climbing friend made it to Banff from Seattle on snowy roads in less than 9 hours once! And I heard he wasn't driving crazy.

I went into the little mazama store yeterday (the place that sells gas) and thought it was just about the coolest little shop/store aywhere. They had a lot of patagonia stuff and the place had a really cool overall feel. I wonder how many people take time to leave highway 20 and drive a minute to stop? _________ How does real estate in Mazama compare to say chumstick canyon out of Leavenworth?

Can I drill through carbon fiber? I want to modify some gear.

I am not trying to rile anyone up or be mean at all and I am sorry if I offend anyone with this question. ______________________________ Why is the skill level of climbing leaders, instructors, and trip leaders for the Mountaineers Organization so low (wheter it be rock, ice, or alpine)? This seems to be across the board for all the groups (Seattle Mountaineers Branch, Tacoma Branch, Everett Branch,etc.). I've been at this game for long enough and had enough encounters to accurately make this correlation. I probably shouldn't have made this post as it is imflammatory in nature but the correlation is so strong that it does make for very interesting food for thought.

I've got some VHS climbing movies to trade. we should all bring em' to a pub club

Anyone interested in trying and driving for a little trip I've been planning? It would be to climb every single route 5.10 and under at all four vertical worlds in a day. It would have to be on a Tuesday or Thursday for the the 6am opening and be sometime in Dec. when I have one of those days off. 6am start at Seattle gym, 10:30am hit Redmond VW. Drive north on 405 to Everett VW, arrive at 2pm Leave at 5:30 drive south on I-5 to ferry. Arrive at Kitsap VW at 7pm climb till close at 10pm. Ayone want to talk about details? Flame away!

I want to make a short (30ish minutes) video of climbing with a soundtrack. Should I just find a buddy with a camcorder and go to it or should I try anything else? I've filmed climbers on routes before but it never seems as exciting at home when you are watching. I'd like to have a little editing done and have the filmer above me or using a tripod off to the side. Should I just purchase a VHS tape and try to find somebody off this site and pay them 50 bucks? Is anyone interested in filming? I was thinking of more of a rock climbing film with some stunt work (I'll do the climbing) anyone interested? I'll drive, buy the tape, take the falls for the film, and buy the beer. Anyone interested? -proceed to flame away!

Good post and good food for thought. Sadly many "sponsored" climber's compsensation is just 6-7 pairs of free shoes a year.

Since this is a chestbeating thread... Lib Ridge Willis Wall J-berg solo bolted lots of koool sport routes Colchuck Balanced Rock w. face Sherpa N.ridge & bal. rock FFA Free soloed a 5.11a Lots of Routes in Europe sahale south face of Forbidden and lots more

Thanks guys for tips.

That is a classic outing. I did the very link-up you describe in 92' or 93'.

If you don't find anybody to climb with, I'll bet Castle Rock up tumwater canyon would probably have the most cc'ers.