Jens

I Picked up a 3 pack of these at big lots for 5 bucks. They are about the same weight and size as 3 packets of GU. The seem to keep the mosquitos away a little bit. We clipped em' to our packs. The emit a super high pitched tone that is created by 1 aaa battery that mosquitos don't like. For the price, weight, and size, definitely check em' out.

Thanks for all the help with my post yesterday. I did elect to descend in tight rock shoes (Eric Gratz & I climbed the West Face today). Current beta: Drinking water is available up to halfway up the approach gully. We heard running water near the bench below the face but didn't see any. The mosquito and black fly season is in. There was one footlong section that was damp near the top of the first 5.11 pitch that we were able to easily hand jam around. The rest of the route was bone dry.

If you have just a couple seconds, I'm looking for a little help. If I climbed the west face of Colchuck Balanced Rock, would I be able to decend to my pack at the base in a pair of rock shoes? Anotherwards, how long is the descent, is it steep or long? If I were to wear rock shoes, could I wear my really tight rock shoes down or would have to wear a huge comortable pair of rock shoes? Is it say longer or shorter than getting back to the packs after climbing snowcreek wall? Is there a chance I might need an ice axe this time of year to get to the route or to get off the summit? thanks so much

This is my first order with these folks and they've been slow. I ordered a shitload of bolt hangers about 2 months ago and still haven't received them. Any other experiences with these folks? They were nice though.

I will be over there then. Anyone gonna be there and wanna climb? anyone have a friend of relative that lives over there that wants to climb?

That's an uncanny match! Very cool.

I will be over there these dates and am looking for partners. Even if you can't go, if you have any friends over there, let me know. I'm a normal guy.

Take a spur that goes under some powerlines (if my memory serves me correct) Make sure you start switchbacking up toward the clearcut in your vehicle.

38 tends to be soft 32 is right on the money (at least for the harder routes)

Anyone? "We were here first!" "Get off my project!" "That's the 3rd piece of gear you've dropped on me!" "We're using our rope to go down now!"

Anybody else have these fall apart on them after minimal usage?

This really sucks. With this development, the numbers between the bivy area and skull hollow will certainly even out a bit. It will now be a bit of a wash, Skull hollow = fires, but drive .....Bivy area= showers & no drive but no fire (or partying) I guess the no fire thing keeps the noise down for sportos trying to get a good night sleep to redpoint their projects.

The Beckey's 23 Psalm gave me the loudest laugh of the month!!!

I'm still slow and weak but now that I am single, I'm starting to creep back into the kinda shape I was in 10 years ago.

Climb: Sherpa N. Ridge & balanced rock 1st free ascent- Date of Climb: 7/11/2006 Trip Report: After recenly meeting Scott GG, we decided to climb the north ridge of sherpa peak in a day and along the way, try to make the first free ascent of the sherpa balanced rock. Scott picked me up early in the morning and we started up at the stuart lake trailhead at 4:45 am. Scott passed my litmus test for new climbing partners which states that they must like either coffee or beer-at least one of the two. People that dislike both scare me. We trodded in and eventually thrutched up a dirty chimney where Scott tied the rope around his waist and placed a piece on his way to the notch. Once on the north ridge, we put the rope away and soloed the entire route to the summit (The final steep rock above the final tower puts the climber in a spectacular position). After summiting, we went over to have a go at the balanced rock. I had climbed it several years ago and new how much fun it was. I climbed up on the east side of the balanced rock where a short section of overhang with very thin face climbing led to a small ledge. If you were to slip at this section, you'd break both your ankles for sure. You have to commit to the move. I traversed right and jumped for a small edge and managed to stick it. Scott followed the pitch. We descended down the east and decided to descend the NE couloir. We had tennis shoes with crampons strapped on so down climbing the thing was quite slow. We reached the basin and hit the creek and eventually reached the car that early evening. beta: The mosquitos are really bad right now. Hopefully Scott will post some pics. Summary: Sherpa- North Ridge & Sherpa Balanced Rock FFA 5.10c, Jens Klubberud & Scott Gg. - Gear Notes: Bug Spray Mosquito headnet red bull for the drive home

Sounds like the keystone cops making excuses to me as this has been going on badly for years. -granted us WA plate folks get hit harder.

Agreed, It is real slap in the face to the local squamish law enforcement, rcmp or whatever that they havesuch a rampant problem. Even if you are only able to catch one of the local kids doing this if you nail em' hard and prosecute to the fullest extent of law, the word may get out. We have a huge problem in King county here with car thefts. The prosecuters have just cahnged thair tactics and bumped up jail time (even for minors) the word is out and the number of cars that are stolen in King co has dropped in the last few months,

Rank the parking lots that your are most likely to have your stuff jacked from your car in. 1st place- Squamish Apron lot 2nd place- Squamish Chief parking lot 3rd place- Squamish campground parking lot 4th place- exit 38 trestle parking lot 5th place- exit 38 far side lot 6th place- snow creek lot 11worth 7th place-index? 8th place?

So who's gonna ski off the rim and drop into the crater this winter!!!

For those of you getting into the sport of climbing, It is an amazing lifelong passion. Just a quick note- that when you see fixed quickdraws on a sport route, they are there because someone is working on it. Although this is common at many crags in the US, here in WA is relitevly rare (except for at exit 32). The draws are to stay fixed even if there are only 2 or 3 draws on hanging on a really long route (they could be for hard clips). Novice climbers may find themselves rapping down routes with fixed draws. Please leave them and enjoy your day of climbing. (I've had draws taken off 2 different routes here in WA in my life)- don't ask me for where, when, and whatnot so this doesn't turn into a sprayathon.

Any solid climbers interested in either smith, squamish, or WA pass? Jens Klubberud

Of the 6 cascade routes that are included in Steck & Roper's "50 classic climbs of north america" Which one would you vote as being the best? My ranking: Best- Liberty Ridge 2nd- Slesse NE Buttress 3rd- Stuart North Ridge 4th- Forbidden West Ridge 5th- Liberty Bell Liberty Crack 6th- Have only been on the lower flanks of the Price glacier so I am not qualified to vote on this one.

With all the dangers of having a rope even near a car battery..... I got to thinking the other day, I frequently lug around extra batteries for my Bosch in my backpack stacked on top of my rope and harness. Should I put the battery packs in plasic bags? -Or am I just being a worry wart?

When are the newest even skinnier mammut slings coming out?