Jens

Nice ski! The mental fatigue musta been off the charts. Not to many ski lines require that concentration level for that duration of time.

Spring is here and cragging time it be. You know your new crags that have a couple of lines on em? The ones you've put a bunch of work on and debated on telling more than just your circle of friends? How about sharing the love with your fellow cc'er? Come on folks, let's even hear some rumors. The slightly more traffic will clean em' up.

The 404's aren't death traps like you are starting to believe. I've ridden 404's for over a decade and even done some jumping in them -and lots of extreme skiing. I've had em' release a lot of times and never been hurt.

I like to do weekend fun up north with Saturday at Blackcomb and Sunday at Squamish. The only problem is I hate leaving expensive race skis and boots in my car while I crag. (I've had two different friends get their stuff jacked in squamish lots). If I had crappy ski gear I wouldn't care. Any ideas? Would any store let me throw them behind the counter? Any other ideas? And nothing against squamish, I don't even like to leave my ski gear in the car when I'm at my local crags.

I have some boot driers that plug in to a wall outlet that I throw in my ice boots on trips multi-day trips to Banff and such. They work great but get pretty warm. Should I use em' on thermoflexible liners for ski boots? Or will the heat ruin my custom molded fit? Ski boot liners seem to take forever to dry.

skiiers and ski mountaineers.... Speaking of goggle lens tints and colors: Whattya like for different conditions? Fog? early evening? bright? flat light? rain? snowing? Watching world cup racers on TV not even agree what color to use on a given day is interesting. Coaches are putting lots of googles on the racers before the start. Some go with yellow,others purple, orange, and even blue. Any opinions? I have mine, but I want hear others.

A guy told me that the Cinch gives absolutley horrible feeds.

Anybody know if this is effective today or at the start of the next year? I was at a state park today with a self pay station and all the signs were still up- The ranger is there every day and he could take the signs down in minutes if he wanted to. _ Great work. Hopefully the trail park pass will be next.

Here is justthe beta you are looking for: Rappel down your project with a roll of aluminum foil, a tape measure, a bucket, and pen and paper. Stop at each hold and make a mold of the hold with the foil. Toss the mold in a bucket and measure how far it is to the next hold. Do this for the whole route. When you get home, take the foil molds and make homemade holds for your home wall with the distances between each hold measured. After a few months, send it. Make sure you follow my directions very carefully or it won't work.

Matt, long time no see. (i've got a torn A2 pulley right now. I figured you'd know if anybody would. I'm foggy on the details but this guy who was describing the area was talking it up nearly as much as swiftwater. Who knows.

Yah, I know. Dumb ass thread.

On the worst days I have had drive times for a Leavenworth cragging trip pretty darn near close to an index trip! (i-90 speeding vs. US2 ugliness). I live fairly close to the i-90 sunset onramp in Issaquah though.

I'm bored... Stuff I don't like that other people do: hand jammies(aka spyder mitts) soccer George W. columbia sportswear subarus guiness mountain hardware gear mounties tequilla wired hexes poodles vantage darrington arc'teryx sushi telemark "racers" small town cops brussel sprouts bouldering ratings gear prices here in the states malt-nut powerbars gloves that cost 180 bucks Tim Eyeman snowboarders sitting in liftlines blue water ropes Rock slippers that cost 140 bucks poor customer service

A guy was telling me a description about a really cool sandstone bouldering area on hill right above the town of Roslyn, WA. Anybody have any more specific rating, F.A., or approach details? __________ After getting rained out a bunch, This could be a great resource and an hour closer than Leavenworth or Vantage for most King County residents. I wouldn't normally make a post like this but in my experience, traffic can really clean up a lot of our grainy sandstone formations and their is little private land in this region. (I know I'm about to get flamed)

What auto locking belay device should I buy to use on skinny cords? (It would most be for sport climbing, belaying other hangdoggers, and new routing)? The gri-gri certainly shouldn't be used on lets say a 9.1mm and I've heard that the brand new trango version (the brown one that I think is called the cinch) gives horrible feeds. Doesn't cassin or somebody make one? Anyone try it? Any other advice? I you were using a 9.1mm single cord what would you recommend? Are the European devices even available in the states?

Climb: Guye Peak West Face Ski Descent-West Face Date of Climb: 3/12/2006 Trip Report: On March 12 Jeff Hansel and I skied the West Face of Guye Peak. While climbing Guye in a previous winter, I noticed that a series of improbable steep ramps dissect the west face of Guye. The ramps looked much smaller from Alpental Road than they really turned out to be (most people driving to Alpental would not think of the west face of Guye as being a ski possiblity). Jeff and I accessed a right trending ramp that began approximately 75 yards climbers left of the start of the "Improbable Traverse" Route. The ramp angled southward across the middle of the west face and was directly above the large roof hovering over the improbable traverse route. When the ramp ended in vertical terrain in the middle of the west face, a narrow ice step with rocks led up to an improbable looking left leading narrow ramp. At the end of the second ramp, a rib was crossed and a leftward traverse was made which led to a steep gully that eventually led to the summt. The ski decent off the summt and into the upper gully proved excellent although exposed skiing. The upper ramp featured turns at the edge of the steep wall of the west face. The crux of the ski decent was the narrow ice step with rocks near the ramp transition at the center of the face which had to be skied with care as a several hunderd foot free fall lurked directly below. We were both very scared- (I was more scared than I had been in quite a while). The greater than normal snowpack this year and good snow conditions allowed us passage. The drive back and to the sasuge-fest was a blur.- Jens Klubberud Gear Notes: skis, axe, crampons

I'm looking for some feedback here: So how cool would it be to have a huge cc party (possibly the fall ropeup) at the large dirt parking lot for punk rock? The one on the ridge crest high above midnight rock. It would be the ultiamte spot (or at least the best I can think of in the state). The huge dirt parking lot that is flat- Ample camping. White granite with routes 5 minutes from the party spot. No rangers, no public, nothin' we could have a huge fire in the middle of the dirt lot and be as loud as we wanted. Those with low clearance cars could leave their rigs at the valley bottom and shuttle up. Any thoughts anyone? ________________________________________ This memory may be a bit foggy but-An older climber told me of how once they hauled a keg to the top of the first pitch of godzilla at indexand had a fixed TR to get drinks.

amen to that

Edelweiss has an excellent reputation. They are much better than say a blue water (shitty) or beal (good but quite soft). I picked up a 70meter 9.9mm dry edelwiess for $130 with no tax and free shipping last summer. My moto with ropes buy cheap and buy often.

I stopped buy a few weeks ago when I was in the area on business after not climbing there for years. The place does have a tradition that goes way back and in its heyday it had nearly as many (and as strong) of climbers as the UW rock did at the time? Sadly, I noticed some climbers had written some graffiti with paint to mark bouldering. That is something I have never seen before. If you live in Pierce county it will definitely give your footwork the sensation of climbing on slicker texture (as featured in many WA areas) a feel that you can't tune up for the spring season at a gym.- I also noticed that the huge fir tree on the south blew over in the latest windstorm, giving spire a longer season and quicker drying time- something that always plauged it. If I lived in pierce county I'd climb at the place.-just my two cents.

When I drove by peshastin on Friday, it was dry and my car thermometer said 45 degrees.

I have no idea what the current policy is but... a while back it used to be that all REI house brand products (jackets, gloves, etc.) were guaranteed for life but nothing else was? So for example, if you took a Petzl item back after several years of abuse, REI wouldn't give just you a new one. Not to drift threads, but I once saw a guy with an early 80's tent stuff sack demanding a new tent because the stuff sack had a small hole in it. The guy was going apeshit. I couldn't even see the hole (although I was a few feet away). --- Did anyone see the article in the paper yesterday about REI's record profits for the quarter? They are making some bucks!

Anybody else getting tired of minimart owners, shop and store owners looking at your twenty dollar bills, marking them, holding them up to the light, and scrutinizing you?-- Jesh I'm even have them looking at 10's. It never happens when I'm coming home from work wearing dress clothes. Some of these guys are really obnoxious about it. I know there are crminials out there but it seems like almost every transaction now!

I'll be there. The later the better for me. I'll referee any push-up or arm wrestling contests. I'll put a sharp broken beer glass under all the contestants.

Climb: snoqualmie pass fun-assorted chair rotues Date of Climb: 2/20/2006 Trip Report: I drove up to the pass for some fun by myself this morning. I was itchin' to try some old welsh tools that a buddy let me borrow. I walked in to chair peak (thanks weekend folks for putting in a nice bootpack). At the basin, I noticed that ravens were circling and eyeing other people's packs. I made sure not to leave my car keys for them to play with (although cascade ravens seem less bold than their Alaskan and Canadian brethren)? At the approach col I noticed a wine cork so I figured their would be other cc'ers on the mountain (oh wait us cc'ers drink wine from twist off bottles)! I found nice conditions on the NE buttress and encountered 2 other parties on the route-- cc'ers but I forgot their names. I summited & descended back to the basin where the skis were and decided to climb the North face. The route was in good shape. I encountered 2 more cc'ers on the N.face. I was about 25 minutes on the NE butt and about 30 on the N.face. Back at the skis I busted my Randonee' boots so I decided to the cancel my plans to ski over and climb the NE slab of the tooth after lunch. Alpental was open (unusual for a Monday). On the ski out I almost accidentally ran over a dog that wouldn't get off the ski track. Gear Notes: no flotation needed on approach. Approach Notes: -nice boot trail put in -low avy hazard -both routes are in good shape -no ice in descent gully (snow only)