Jens

Climb: South Face Direct- Forbidden Peak-South Face Direct Date of Climb: 8/5/2006 Trip Report: After a failed attempt on the first winter ascent of the south face direct route on Forbidden Peak with Pax a few years back, I came back to make a summer climb of the route. Greg Carter (a buddy from the Seattle Vertical World) and I left Seattle at 1am and eventually slogged to the base. We climbed through the overhaning band via the right hand option mentioned in the Nelson guide. A blue green streak marked the start. After a while, we reached the fixed belay high point from my winter attempt. After several more hours, we reached the final headwall below the summit. The 1977 route finishes on an easy slab that ends a few feet west of the summit. Just for kicks, I lead an overhanging corner a few feet to the left for a top out for a more demanding finish. The rock down low on the route was awful but up high it was awesome. In these modern times, the route was not difficult, however due to the mandatory 40 foot runouts on 5.9 friction face climbing, a winter ascent (without a lot of ice formed) may be at least a decade away in may humble opinion. The crux pitch as described in the guidebooks went at about 5.10a/b. On the way out, Greg spiked himself pretty bad with his crampon but managed to hike out without a single complaint. Today he got stitches! Other than the wound, It was a fine day out in the hills. Greg Having fun! The overhanging 10c pitch (just for fun) Gear Notes: No bug spray needed. Water available everywhere. Cascade river road is due for a grating.

Cool Pics!

I thought you said your box was going to be air conditioned!

Here's a fantasy solo Start 12:01am: Solo eve dearborn memorial route on index-(AI4?) -chopper pickup at summit 20 minute chopper flight to prow on climber's right of base of drury falls. (It's a big enough spot for a drop off) solo Drury (WI4)-Descend via standard descent to base prow pickup point for chopper pick-up. 10 minute chopper flight to Colchuck Lake Drop-off point arrive at 7pm. Solo triple couloir by headlamp. Arrive at summit at 11:59 to meet your support team on the summit of Dragontail where they have a hot cappucino waiting for you. This enchainment is within the realm of possible, it would be very expensive though.

Yes, the pictures of the fresh snow are barely visible on my picture of Cascade peak in the gallery section.

Can we have it at 8-mile campground instead so we can have climbs within walking distance and have more comradery among cc'ers instead of everyone disappearing for the entire weekend and then showing up about 10pm to drink some beer. I'll bet we get more people attending becuase of the familiarity factor with 8-mile. We could take over 8-mile rock and have drunken laps by headlamp.

That sound's like a cool outing. I've never heard of anyon doing it that way, but I'd like to! I love the J-berg pics!

Climb: Johannesberg-CJ couloir & mixed to east ridge solo Date of Climb: 8/1/2006 Trip Report: J-berg is a mountain that stirs the passion for high places in me. Today I decided to get out for some peace and quiet and enjoy the voyage solo. I was contemplating the Northeast buttress but I wasn't in the mood to bushwack up the mountain. I left the car at 3am and began to breathe and get into a rythmn up the c-j couloir. The clouds were in thick. Eventually I reached a large section where the couloir had melted out for about 500 vertical feet. A short mixed section above a bottomless moat at about 5.8 led off the couloir to the right. Excitement factor was high as the rock was wet and loose and crampons were on. I reagined the couloir and climbed through a section of ice to reach the col. Freshly fallen snow was all around making Cascade peak look like a miniture Dru. The east ridge climb to the summit was enjoyable. Their was one other party's entry this year. Upon return to the col, the clouds were so heavily socked in that I could not see 20 yards ahead. I opted to return down the CJ and to the lot instead trying to feel my way to Doug's Direct. Ibailed on my plan to continue on to Cascade, triplets, and mixup due to visibility. I'll try to post some pics tomorrow morning. Gear Notes: Simond axe steel crampons bugs were not bad at all. Approach Notes: One big Icefall came down the C-J couloir (didn't hit me!)

Tons of bouldering potential. More than any of the casinos or theme parks at Vegas. Fake Limestone throughout the zoo. The goat area had tall basalt columns so real I had to do a double take (you can't get inside the goat area though). I was scoping the tall walls the orangutangs would have to climb out of to escape. Proabably 5.14 but climbable. In the zoomazium there is a huge wall photo of colonial peak that is proabably 30 feet across. Next time you go, wear your sticky approach shoes.

That Ballroom place in Fremont had tons of empty outside seating we could take over and is somewhat centrally located. Maybe somebody could boulder the fire pit brick stucture (V0?)

Anyone that lives in King county looking to go up to WA pass Mon-Tuesday (camping Monday night). I'm looking to do some more challenging routes (tooth & claw, east face of lexington, or check out the new monkey business on the east side of s.early winter spire). I might be game for some newhalem craging or bouldering on the way out if my finger that is hurting right now gets better. I'd prefer a cc'er that I've met at a pub club or the like. Anyone looking to get out?

Looks good to me!

I'm not the authority on this but my buddy's subaru used to spin out and get stuck in places where my old cavalier used to make it. (we'd follow each other)- Plus the type of people that drive rus usually drive them poorly. Go for a 4wd with clearance (a truck or suv) and throw studded tires on them. I currently have AWD and don't like how much gas it sucks down. Good luck and be safe- getting home from the climb can often be the most dangerous part.

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97mph

I want one!

If you want new fun, go straight up a ways and see what you bump in to.

Anyone?

Bouldering on plastic tears me up. ______________________

They did say that my device does little (that implies "a little") so let's say if I get 15 bites on a trip instead of 19, I'll take it!

As a die hard mariner fan, what I am seeing at home games as of late is sickening me. At any given game in any city, their are always gonna be travelers or whatever that like the opposing team. A safeco though, visitng fans are getting more and more brazen. In any given section these days on any given night at safeco, their will be at least 15-20 people in one or two small groups dressed up in the opposing teams jerseys standing up and cheering at every play or out made by the opposing team. People are cluing in that we are just to nice here in Seattle. A friend told me that in New York or Boston, they'd get beer, seeds, batteries, and other shit thrown at them and probably get beat up if they kept standing up for every out or hit that the opposing team scored. At last night's Toronto game, a huge section could be heard chanting for toronto all the way across the stadium to our seats (which were on the opposite side of the stadium). Shit, the last time the Yankees came to town, every third fan walking to the Safe had a Yankees Jersey or hat on. We are just waaaaay to nice in this city (I'm guilty myself). And we are a baseball city- so let's work together on fixing this. Pass the word at work watercoolers, etc.

That area is so cool and quinessential north cascades. I'm surprised it doesn't get more traffic as close to the highway as it is.

The number one critera for me for a harness is that it must stay off the jewels. I even have been know to cut back portions of the inside of the leg loops to keep the jewels happy. Ever talk to an old dude who has taken a winger in a Whillans harness?

I hiked the same trail a week before and the bugs on both trips were bad. On the second trip they seemed less bad when I had my device on my pack and the seemed just as bad when I left my pack to get water or the like. Who knows, maybe they don't work, but for the weight and size of 2 packets of GU, what the heck.

I'd join you guys again but I want to rest for the vertical world summer slam that is the next day.