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Jens

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Everything posted by Jens

  1. "You'll be going up all right, just a bit higher than planned". Or something like that Don Whillans to some Japanese climbers heading up the Eiger Nordwand in a storm.
  2. I'm still going with the water being diverted or farmed on that pic. Even a small drip can make a phat falls.
  3. Funny Pics! It has been my experience to steer clear of Korean, Austrailian, and Irish climbers. Many haven't a clue and are dangerous to those around them. As for the sweet pic with the falls, how did the water get to that notch? It looks farmed? Anyone agree? It ain't a natural watercourse but it looks like a sweet route!
  4. Any thoughts on whether or not to try to keep your finger pads from pruning up in the water? One climber I know has a phobia of getting his fingers wet for more than a few minutes as he thinks he'll be toast on his routes. ---------------------------------------------- Any thought on fingernail length? Shape? My thoughts: Short nails are better for crimps and pockets whereas longer nails are better on slopers.
  5. Sweet. No more going down to the village to link up mountains. 3 and a half golden gate bridges long is pretty wild! The environmental impact looks like it will be minimal also. ---------------- As a sidenote, Mt.Daniel here in WA would be the perfect ski resort. It has the perfect layout and a flat valley bottom for a village and would be world class. -------------- Blackcomb on a good day is as fun as any type of climbing.
  6. I'll admit, 38 is a choss pile but it has routes just as hard as index's hardest (mid 13) and it has had way less chipped hold monkey business than index. 32 is way better.
  7. Even before this thread, I've decided to move away from the ultra skinny slings (edelweiss, mammut, etc.) that I've been using for a while now. The weight is trivial in comparison to slightly wider sewn slings. I frequently hang a long sling to reduce rope drag on a sport project and the really skinny ones don't hang with the gate oriented the way you want. The slightly wider ones hang with the gate the way you want. It is way over my head but take a look at the fixed slings on routes like Rude Boys at smith if you want an example. I held 5 ultra skinnys in one hand and 5 slightly wider slings in the other and the weight difference seemed to be less than one 100 calorie packet of GU. Plus the ultra skinny ones cut over sharp edges way easy. just my two cents. And for ice and alpinism, the water absorbtion seems to be about the same.
  8. Your crux will certainly be not having stuff stolen from your vehicle. Squamish is the worst for that sort of thing of any climbing area I've ever been to. When I come back from lift skiing at Whistler, I'm afraid to even stop for a few hours with all my ski stuff in my vehicle. The local law enforcement is pretty incompetent on this issue.
  9. Thanks guys, just the info I was looking for. ----- Glue got me through the sharp pockets and edges on Latest Rage yesterday.
  10. What do you like for finger pad treatments on multi day rock trips? Super glue seems slightly slicker to me than crazy glue. I've heard everything from they are both fine to they are super toxic. Anyone in the know? I've used both for quite a while.
  11. This is the BEST all time imax. awesome everything Soundtrack by the greatest band of all time=QUEEN Unreleased soundtracks from Brian May solo= greatest rock guitar player of all time. Awesome watching Robert Jasper climb. awesome alpine climbing, sport climbing, and AT skiing shots -------- Sour grapes though when the 40cm of new snow and unstable weather thwarted my attempt on the North Face when I was over in the alps climbing this summer.
  12. Jens

    Discuss!

    I'm an M's fan. We are off to a great start. Any cc.com posters play at the higher levels when they were younger? high school, community college, etc? my thought for a few keys to our year: *Turn off the radar gun display when Felix pitches. He peeks at it and then overthrows. I think they had it turned off some last year for him? *Beltre needs to stop trying to pull the ball. He seems to have all the power he needs to just clear the fence in right center. When he went off the juice a few years ago, a lot of his deep drives that used to be dongs turned into warning track shots. * I am 90% sure the A's were stealing signs consistently from us last year. Go M's
  13. I can't believe what I'm reading. You just don't steal draws on someone's project. No matter what kind of climber you are. It is just not done.
  14. Alain Robert is amazing.
  15. You can't tell me that a couple of people getting shuttled up are going to spend more than a few token dollars at Copper Creek or Alexanders. I know the businesses are hurting. My folks live down near their and go up a lot.
  16. The thieves will certainly have some bad climbing karma coming! If you are reading this and have the draws, wait until you are six feet out from one of them and remember this thread. You'll blow the crux thinking about my post even if the draw or biner doesn't break over an edge that time.
  17. I'm game. It should be good weather though. Can I pay someone to carry my DH boards to muir? They'll drag in the snow if I lash them to my pack.
  18. Did I hear some rumor like "VIP's" are getting shuttled up by car to paradise for recreational climbing, skiing, and other recreation? Perhaps the shuttling is going on up the westside also?
  19. In addition to bees...Watch out for toy rattlesnakes in the walk through grotto to sunshine wall! --- The rainshadow for Vantage today started about 1 mile west of the climbing area. Everyone else in the state got soaked. 70F and sun in the afternoon at the climbs. It was sunny for us last weekend too. ---- Noticed a lot of newer really mediocre routes that have been thrown up in the last 7 years or so near the gullies west of sunshine and jigsaw. ---- Here is a surprise: Vantage's Balls Wall gets my vote for the most sandbagged sector in WA. The times i've climbed their (today included) the ratings certainly felt stouter than index. The routes are awesome though.
  20. I climbed it exactly that way once. We went that way when we came up and found zero ice in the runnel section that would lead to the second couloir.
  21. Have a fun time all. I was just down in Vegas climbing. Don't forget to spend at least one day on some of the Vegas Limestone. It is awesome!
  22. I've climbed shirtless and then been buried with snow 24hr. later this time of year. Just be well prepared if your headin' up the big stone.
  23. Would the NPS ever let us revive the silver skis race from Muir to Paradise? I've seen some of the old footage and it is a hoot! I don't know that my thighs could stay in a tuck all the way to the parking lot but it would be fun to try!
  24. Ouch man! Where's the love? Whether a ski, crampon, rock shoe, etrier, or mt. boot is underfoot, you are outta your league dude.
  25. I used skateboard deck tape for one season and then this season went with the petzl/charlet stuff and found it better.
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