Jens

I predict that in future years (if it stays cold) that this line will become the cult classic for cascade hardmen.

He did awesome and far better than I would have done. I don't think I would have been able to stop that fall with all that shit coming down- Brand new 9.5mm skinny line with a teflon coating.

My whipper on the ice with Tvashketarkena today was bigger and upside down. See ice forum.

Pulling out after a roof today on mixed pitch I speared a chunk of ice. I heel hooked above my head and then Bang! about 250 pounds of ice slid off the rock (the part my tool was in) The ice went straight for Tvashtarkena coming down on top of him as I sailed through the air completely upside down seeing the trees behind me. Tvash someohow managed to arrest me and survive unhurt aided by a tangle that jammed in the belay device after the barrage ended. I fell the full length of the pitch from the 6th bolt to the first and was face to face with Tvash when it ended. I didn't touch a thing. He gets hardman points for surviving unhurt and not letting me hit the ground! With all the monkey business the last 3 months, this has been my luckiest/unluckiest? ice season of my ice career. We decided it was time to quit for the day and drink beer!

Tuesday is the better day if you are doing a Friday start for your psycho weekend route.

What you speak of is good, but that is quite a strrettttch of a statement.

Gary is probably one of the best climbing photographers in the PNW!

Rumr's 7 year old has even climbed Full Japanese Gardens clean! ----- I like this thread. ---- I'm guilty of all of the above at the gym. ----- Rumr, when are we gonna wrestle?

Great post kurt! Virtually nothing is plowed in the winter in WA. As a result, most of the best climbers in the cascades just go to Banff, Lillooet, or lift ski. I'd love to see a few more forest roads plowed. As for ice farming though, I've talked to a couple of "farmers" and as mild as our winters are it would have to be like at 7,000+ to be really good. Leavenworth is having an OK ice winter but it will proabably be shit for next 10 years like it usually is. What is everyones dream three roads to be plowed?

Pax & I tried for the FWA of the South face but got shut down.

Sweetest pictures on this site in ages!!! I must do this route! Eurostyle climbing!

What is the area testpiece?

Sweet pictures!

I hope your buddy is doing OK now.

Dudes you can't plan a pub club and then give folks only a few hours to find out about it!!! If I wear my trucker hat, puma jacket, and shave, I can pull off a younger Sigma Nu.

The petzl ropes are cousin "COOO-sin" ropes (they bought the production line) always known for a nice hand. Millet "Mee-ay" ropes are rad- Millet is the best softgoods gear company in the world by a mile.

It is really good!!!! Hopefully the brush can be kept at bay by more traffic. The brush was winning last time I went.

I don't know how the core shot occured. I've proably taken whippers on 30 different blue water ropes so it ain't a bad batch. I won't pontificate any more but it isn't just a durability issue. Handling, kinkage, lying aobut diameters, poor weaves, inconsistent lableing, sheath slippage, flat spots right out of the bag, and a whole lot more. Don't buy one.

I didn't hear about this! Let's plan the mother of all pub clubs in a few weeks and we'll all pledge to coax 2-3 of our luker climbing partners to attend- (You know your partners that read this site every day but only post like twice a month). Someplace empty with a couple of huge tables. Let's shoot for 40+ folks- It could be done. We could scare off everyone else from the bar with all our route beta.

sweeeet!

nope.

What is the status of Zodiac since the cleanup a few years ago?

Thats Tavsh...not me Ironically, we saw KC hitch-hiking no less than 4 miles from marble canyon ice the next afternoon. He was wearing the exact same outfit he'd had on the night before. That's at least a 25 mile walk from Lillooet? Lillooet has a enough volume to even survive a long February heat wave.

The Asolo Ottomilla 8000's are probably the best plastic boot made. I've never worn them but that is what friends tell me. All Koflach boots suck bad and are exclusivley for gumby snow sloggers.

After years of swearing off Blue Water ropes (many bad experiences with em' in the 90's-they suck!) I was a sucker and bought one a couple weeks ago. I ordered it because it was on sale. I got a core shot in the first 4 hours of climbing on it. I wasn't abusing it at all. The rope is toast and pieces of core are bulging out from a blown sheath. My last expereience in the 90's was almost as bad. Friends don't let friends use bluewater ropes. (I've climbed on a lot of them and know what I'm talking about!)