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Jens

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Everything posted by Jens

  1. Jens

    Other talents?

    What other pursuits do you do that you are waaaayyy better at then climbing? I'm not counting anything relating to your work/profession or your supposed prowess with members of the opposite sex. Music? Wine tasting? Chess? Salsa dancing? cooking? fighting? We've got a lot of posters and about half of WA's climbing community as lurkers on this site so we should get some good responses.
  2. Can you recommend an excellent recording of Grieg's piano concerto? Bonus points if it comes with Schumann's piano concerto. I bought a CD many years ago and never got into it and have determined it's because the recording sucks (based on other works I've replaced). It's taken me a couple of years to learn to hear the difference in interpretation, and figure out what I like. Come over to my house after a pub club and I'll play you the first movement of either the Grieg or the Schumann piano concertos on my piano!
  3. Thanks for the beta. I'm going in some November just before the road closes. If any or you cc'ers have an old copy of that infamous paperback MRNP water ice guide from the 70's, i'd love to take a peak at it some pub club -Raindawg? Off topic, but has anyone ever skiied from Unicorn all the way to Packwood?
  4. Cool pics and TR. Does anyone know..... I have always thought that the basin where the first picture with the tent is would have some sweet water ice lines in the winter. As you head toward Unicorn around the lake on the right their are a lot of cliffs that have a lot of water spurting over them. It is at a fairly high elevation and due to the basin and aspect, gets very little sun. It looks like you could go in for a day in say February and tick a bunch of sweet water ice routes?
  5. 111, It is always fun to find a new area (especially if it is close to where you live). I might be wrong, and I think, you'd have to ask one of the moderators at a pub club sometime but I think that in the history of this site, we've seen some rangers, landowners, and other officals, make masquerade posts like yours to find out who, what, where.... Like "I heard that their was some new development going on at this one general area, does anyone know anything?" and then.... Anyways just a bit of silly trivia happy climbing
  6. I was taught that if it your route, you have the rights to tinker with it as you see fit as long as you aren't chipping, carving holds, or other such monkey business that landowners look down upon. I've added bolts to some of my routes that I've already redpointed.
  7. The overall trend for many long time cc'ers is to write fewer TR's on this website anymore. Instead this website has evolved and is more for fun surfing, spraying, and other climbing banter and fun. That is ok.
  8. Man that's me right now!
  9. Very interesting for sure.
  10. So if it has been established that this station was in place before 1980 (put it during the 70's). Again, quite possibly older than the person that chopped it. --------------------------- The lower town wall crag is kind of weird. I've never seen so much ego, wiring of routes, attitude, and sandbagging of any other individual Washington cliff. Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index. ------------------- Leave history as is and have fun climbing.
  11. Neat article. The shade offered by the crater is giving this new glacier life.
  12. This move makes no sense from any standpoint.... style, ethics, traffic, crowds, or visual. Again, like the jg station that had to be replaced, this belay station (location not hardware) could perhaps be older than the person that chopped it!
  13. And a bolted crack as the guidebook cover shot.
  14. I'm back from my 3 hour surgery on my calcaneal fracture (broken heel). They tell me that the surgery was succesful. Since it is my right leg I can't drive for a few months ---------------- I'm eager for visitors and I might even divuldge secret new route opportunities from my "little black book" to those who come over and can tolerate my chestbeating. ----------------- For any kind soul so inclined, I'd reall enjoy a lift to any of the upcoming pub clubs and or cc.com events. I'm in Ballard and my house is easy to find. thanks for all responses to helping me know what to ask the doctors take care Jens PS. As soon as my energy returns, I'm also looking to carpool with anyone to the Seattle Vertical World so I can play on the hangboards and lift weights. If anyone is coming from the north, I am about 1 mile from the gym and just a dash off 15th.
  15. Jens

    I'm drunk

    Cheers Kurt!
  16. Jens

    Your ideal town

    Drew, you are the master of talking out your ass.
  17. Jens

    Your ideal town

    Towns around here I'd live in. Mazama Seattle (my home and paradise!) More climbers per capita than any other city in North America including Canmore, SLC, or Boulder? Leavenworth Vancouver, BC Winthrop Twisp Whistler, BC Squamish, BC (although smith has better rock climbing, cool mts. are up in the squamish area!). Ellensburg Ashford- This place is gonna boom someday! Love the Highlander bar! Lillooet, BC- maybe (I've never been outside of ice climbing season) Bellingham -------- Climber towns that are Nos for me personally: North Bend-to much rain! double the amount of annual precip of Seattle. 100+ inches some years. Tacoma- to sketchy for crime. My brother lives down in the area and tells me plenty of stories. Portland: No ice climbing or serious alpine Yakima: scary
  18. Midway 5.5 and Outer space 5.9 are some of the best multipitch routes anywhere. -------------------------- And to throw this in: Washington's best multipitch trad route: Leavenworth's Outer Space Washington's finest trad climbing: Leavenworth's- Midnight Rock Washington's finest granite sport or face climbing-Leavenworth's Nason ridge (It ain't gneiss). Washington's finest alpine rock route: Leavenworth's Colchuck Balanced Rock Washington's best bouldering (defined as having the most areas that are clean, with good rock): Leavenworth (various-spread out) Washington's finest ice climb: Leavenworth's Drury Falls Washington's finest individual trad pitch: Leavenworth's ROTC Washington's most historical rock route: Leavenworth's Midway
  19. Troll? ----------------- I'll bite.... I haven't heard. Rumor has it that a number of climbers (including some highly respected members in the climbing community that are actually sport climbers!) have contemplated removing the bolts and returning it to the state in which is was originally climbed (Or at least 80% of the same line). Why people drive out to climb this route is beyond me. ----------------
  20. Years ago I talked to a climber dude when I was a teenager who raced the bikes you describe for a living all over the country. He said if WSP is chasing him on the freeway and their are plenty of exits into residential neighborhoods, the cops had no chance and would freqently just give up. He'd frequently engage them in the middle of the night for fun. It was a dirty little secret that all cops knew that would never make the news. Not like the typical thug who steals a cadilac escalade and gets chased. He told me some crazy number about how his bike could go from 0-insane in just seconds. These things go way faster than any law enforcement vehicle and start, stop, and turn on a dime. Didn't Jerry Moffat race bikes?
  21. Cool pics guys! It looks like you had fun. That route is awesome!
  22. Man they had more troopers out over the memorial day weekend than I have ever seen. ----------------- When you go to court, bring visuals; posters, maps, diagrams, etc. I'm told judges view you as someone who is serious about this. ---------------- And for the future: Here are the type of climbers that don't get tickets- drive a pickup, have no ear piercings, have short hair, be wearing a baseball cap, drive an american made vehicle, have no tattoos, no bumper stickers, don't have a license plate frame that indicates you bought your car in Seattle, have all your paperwork out before he even shows up, have your hands on 10 and 2 the whole time and look him in the eye and dont' stutter or argue. Many groups of people customarily argue with law enforcement and thus more often end up with a poor outcome. I had an old clmbing buddy from texas that met all the above critera and had pulled over 14 times by WSP and never got a ticket.
  23. That thing is gnarly! Pre-reqs: high pain tolerance, tape, long lock-off ability between pods, wire brush. Go get it Ben! That thing has gotta be 5.13?
  24. Does the access fund have the political clout to lobby for the permanent removal of the gate at Bridge Creek Campground that blocks the road to the north side of the Stuart/ Colchuck area for much of the year? Could it be made a priority? I can make a very convincing argument (offline) that such a move would; have zero environmental impact, cost the forest service virtually nothing, wouldn't give the forest service many headaches, and would vastly increase the access for a variety of winter users.
  25. *Broke my heel bone bouldering and banged up the other leg pretty good. *I am housebound and no climbing for at least 2 months. *No driving for me
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