Jens

Amen.

In reality, the odds are slighlty in favor that this route may not ever get removed (or at least in it's entirity). I guess guys like me and many others that make a stink on this website so that when the new or aspiring climber does this route someday, they will have a bit of knowledge about the controversy of this route. As time goes on and generations pass, the negative history behind this route will never be completely forgotten- Long after web pages and cc.com archives disappear. If you are a newbie wondering what all the fuss is about, realize that their is indeed food for thought. peace out dudes. I'm done with IB spraying.

I think a guy I know at vertical world climbed it in under 60 minutes? ------------------------------- Infinite Bliss has got to be the most controversial route in WA history? Even more than all the bolted on river rock hold routes at fossil rock placed in the eighties.

Anyone have any advice on when to replace the super skinny slings? --- After about 5 years of using the super skinny ones, I'm going back to using slightly thicker sewn slings.

I think their are some very knowledgeable folks on this website that have put many more years on glaciers than me that hopefully will weigh in. --------------------------- Here is my two cents. Some Europeans I have climbed with view skis as almost -but not quite as safe as a rope. -------------------------- I have both fallen in and caught people that have fallen in crevasses on foot but have never known anyone personally (myself included) that has had a bridge break under them when they were skiing down. The key is to hit em' perpindicular even if you can't see them beacause they are covered- read the terrain. That being said, I HAVE had friends crash on skis and slide into crevasses though or misjudge jumping them on go in when on skis. -------------- I'd say have at.

change the word "photographer" to read "friend" at time of ascent

I like the PBR picture. ----------------------- Just to throw this into the mix: What do you all think about photographers at the top of the cliff with bights of rope ready to toss down to the soloist if they start to sketch? And for roped leading, the British gritsone climbers are notorious for this when they are trying to headpoint such routes.

I love playing his minute waltz even though I butcher it bad.

sporto pitch for lounging with your friends- 34 meters

I've seen that maneuver at quite a few sport crags. Sadly, it is non-verbal language that "I am the honemaster and I don't want to wait for you". ---------------- Interestingly enough, it seemed like it used to be considered cool to be as rude as possible if you were a high end sport climber at any major sport venue like smith and the like in the 80's and early 90's. Negativity was the inspiration for many a redpoint. I'm glad that trend has mostly disappeared.

How do you guys draw on a picture like that? Despite the patterns being a little different, I'd draw in the approx.line Loren and I took through the serracs last year.

skiing and piano for me

They dropped the ball on dishing Ray to Boston.

What other pursuits do you do that you are waaaayyy better at then climbing? I'm not counting anything relating to your work/profession or your supposed prowess with members of the opposite sex. Music? Wine tasting? Chess? Salsa dancing? cooking? fighting? We've got a lot of posters and about half of WA's climbing community as lurkers on this site so we should get some good responses.

Can you recommend an excellent recording of Grieg's piano concerto? Bonus points if it comes with Schumann's piano concerto. I bought a CD many years ago and never got into it and have determined it's because the recording sucks (based on other works I've replaced). It's taken me a couple of years to learn to hear the difference in interpretation, and figure out what I like. Come over to my house after a pub club and I'll play you the first movement of either the Grieg or the Schumann piano concertos on my piano!

Thanks for the beta. I'm going in some November just before the road closes. If any or you cc'ers have an old copy of that infamous paperback MRNP water ice guide from the 70's, i'd love to take a peak at it some pub club -Raindawg? Off topic, but has anyone ever skiied from Unicorn all the way to Packwood?

Cool pics and TR. Does anyone know..... I have always thought that the basin where the first picture with the tent is would have some sweet water ice lines in the winter. As you head toward Unicorn around the lake on the right their are a lot of cliffs that have a lot of water spurting over them. It is at a fairly high elevation and due to the basin and aspect, gets very little sun. It looks like you could go in for a day in say February and tick a bunch of sweet water ice routes?

These are great cams. ------ I did buy some of the new version of WC forged friends about 2 years ago for retail price of $29 though with no tax or shipping. And I seem to remember the 80's REI catalogs had em for in the 20s? --------- Anyways these are solid units and the triggers are nice to have extras of.

111, It is always fun to find a new area (especially if it is close to where you live). I might be wrong, and I think, you'd have to ask one of the moderators at a pub club sometime but I think that in the history of this site, we've seen some rangers, landowners, and other officals, make masquerade posts like yours to find out who, what, where.... Like "I heard that their was some new development going on at this one general area, does anyone know anything?" and then.... Anyways just a bit of silly trivia happy climbing

I was taught that if it your route, you have the rights to tinker with it as you see fit as long as you aren't chipping, carving holds, or other such monkey business that landowners look down upon. I've added bolts to some of my routes that I've already redpointed.

The overall trend for many long time cc'ers is to write fewer TR's on this website anymore. Instead this website has evolved and is more for fun surfing, spraying, and other climbing banter and fun. That is ok.

Man that's me right now!

Very interesting for sure.

So if it has been established that this station was in place before 1980 (put it during the 70's). Again, quite possibly older than the person that chopped it. --------------------------- The lower town wall crag is kind of weird. I've never seen so much ego, wiring of routes, attitude, and sandbagging of any other individual Washington cliff. Many folks seem to only climb at this cliff (albeit they clmb quite hard) and feel fiercely territorial of this small section of index. ------------------- Leave history as is and have fun climbing.

Neat article. The shade offered by the crater is giving this new glacier life.