
Jens
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Everything posted by Jens
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I've got like 18. I'll give you two if you frequent Seattle Vertical World. Pm me and I will tell you where I'll hide them in the gym (above rafters, under carpet etc.)
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bugaboos [TR] Bugaboo's Canadia - Various 9/27/2012
Jens replied to linkalpa's topic in British Columbia/Canada
I love that place. -
[TR] Johannesburg Mountain - NE Buttress 10/7/2012
Jens replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Nice TR. Great photos. Checked out that website. I think I've climbed more routes than anyone on that hill. The three pitch overhanging headwall close to the lot tantalizes the sport climber. I wonder how much a Bosch would echo....troll. -
Deep Water Solo cc.com party next August anyone? Cheaper than a flight to Thailand!
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Went south to Fossil from Seattle. The area is temporarily closed for extreme fire hazard. Hopefully the rain will end the closure. No cranking on overhanging welded tuff right now
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Tom, If your partners bail, pm me. When I attempted the F.W. ascent of the South Face of Forbidden, I scoped the traverse. It would go in winter. I'm not a fan of traverses but this could be a fun diversion from waterfall climbing and bolt clipping.
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Agreed. I've tired of bushwacking 9 hours to get to typical cascade 6 pitch ridge climb that I will solo in 12 minutes.
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Gotta look to the Euros.... On a sidenote, Just to play Devil's advocate, one could argue that Cascade alpine climbing from May-October is dead. If the weather is good, the outcome is pretty much predicted once one reaches the 5.12+ standard and WI6 in the skill department. I think that where our range will really shine someday is on the big steep chossy faces that feature Scottish style mixed winter climbing from November to March. Take the scrappy low altitude north face of Mt. Snoqualmie for instance, it is a glimpse into the next chapter. All the May-October plumbs in our range were picked a long time ago and only table scraps have been left for quite awhile. Traverses and linkups are lame in my book. A lot of us go to places like Smith for the weekend as we know we'll get our ass handed to us and have to push through mental barriers in a different way. Or we get on flights to bigger ranges. That said, the Cascades are beautiful.
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[TR] Mt. Stuart - Girth Pillar via the Lower N. Ridge 7/29/2012
Jens replied to telemarker's topic in Alpine Lakes
I can't believe those things are still hanging there. -
Seeking Tieton camping and climbing info
Jens replied to brucemaclachlan's topic in Rock Climbing Forum
Don't leave a single item of value in your car and if you have two cars, take your crappy one. Squamish and Tieton are the two most car break-in prone climbing areas within 500 miles of Seattle. -
Does one throw away the Futuras after going through the first sole? (about 3 months for me, and about one month if you are a Smith local). I can't imagine anyone trying to resole that design successfully.
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I was going to throw a deep water solo party earlier in the month but my plans fell through.
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Heaven's Gate descent is pretty easy.
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What's the best tape for a tape glove?
Jens replied to A_Little_Off_Route's topic in Climber's Board
There is an article on how to properly tape in one of the latest mags by Pee Wee Oulet (mid 5.14 crack climber and one the best in world) on how he tapes up his hands for his crack climbs. -
Messner was the best and most technical rock climber in Europe and then went on to be the best and most technical ice climber in Europe, and then he set his sights on the 8000m peaks. He'd outclimb the Poles whether he was wearing crampons, rock shoes, mountain boots, or ski boots. He was as strong as they get above 8000m
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Go to Fossil Rock.
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If Jim Bridwell is tough enough to use tape, I'm with him. This is a dumb thread.
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Lower town wall bias on that list. LTW areas makes up about 20% of the quality stone at index.
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Keep em' coming Dawg... best posts of the month. Those pics never get old. Can we photoshop the via ferrata dude onto Infinite Bliss or Vantage and change the face to Liberace?
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No time to type right now, but lots of gear pulling over the years at Vantage. Basalt shattering around placements, you name it. You are better off clipping bolts and trying to catch some rays at Vantage.
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Partner for guided climb of Shuksan Price Glacier
Jens replied to sapphari's topic in Climbing Partners
One of the most classic climbs in the range! Including making the 50 classics of North America. -
Smith......
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Amazing Redpoint! ------- I've always wondered if starting really young gives you a good base of finger tendon and ligament development? I started rock at age 9 and ice climbing shortly thereafter, and have managed to forgo a lot of the finger injuries that my sport climbing partners have that started climbing in their 20's and 30's, despite the fact that I flail on routes these days. I think the name eludes me but I listened to this Brit named Adam W. explain this notion once in the early 90's if my memory serves me. He dirtbagged a bit at Smith.