pope

quote: Originally posted by iain: I liked it when Twight came to talk at that church in Portland and was swearing up a storm from the altar! Then he finally askes, does anyone mind if I swear? Some lady raises her hand and Twight responds "TO F'ING BAD!" The lady gets up in a huff, much to the chagrin of her husband who wanted to stay for the rest of it. Not sure what to make of this.....I mean, you really didn't "like" it in the sense that you approved of it or look up to the guy, right? How difficult is it to have a foul mouth in public these days? What's so bold or original about it? Why is anybody impressed by it? How can that Howard Stern feller be so successful? It seems that all you have to do is talk about tits and farts and drop the F-bomb and you're a media sensation. It's one thing when you're hanging with your buddies or chatting on spray-heavy site, but in church? Mark will grow up one day and realize he isn't very clever for pulling that stunt (he's just an ass).

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Art imitates life! Dru envies Trask.

quote: Originally posted by Colin: I had to leave some pins and 60m of 6mm rope! I self-belayed at one point, but the rope snagged when I tried to retrieve it I'm thinking you'll be leaving equipment on every climb you do from now on just in case somebody decides to question your integrity.

The Narada Falls toilette is a great winter biv-wack.

In certain specialized applications a short rope is kind of cool. Another solution (when you're not absolutely sure you won't need a longer rope) is to tie to a long rope, then coil about 10 meters on each end. When you've shortened the rope to your satisfaction, tie in again with a bite. You get most of the benefits of being tied to a short rope, but if you need a long rope for a particular pitch, you're already tied in and ready to go.

quote: Originally posted by Noway: Don't question whether he completed this magnificent feat, but why he felt the need to post his manly summit? Any serious, hardcore climber doesn't usually boast about his or her accomplishments. If you go back to the top of the thread, you'll notice that Colin was asked about which route he was on when he saw the snowmachines. Somehow I knew this would happen....after Colin has his integrity questioned by a couple of guys who were eager to condemn him, another chump gives him shit for boasting. Really classy, gentlemen. I think it's clear that he did climb the route and that he had no intention of spraying about it.

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Nothing gives a 20 year old disgrunteled gym employee more joy and satisfaction than failing an old-schooler on his belay test, especialy because they never heard "take." (blah blah blah)My personal favorite was when a guy tried to give me a hip belay...ohhh that made my day! I'm pretty sure Dwayner had heard the word "take" previously, and I'm also sure that hearing his evaluator utter the word "take" was Dwayner's first sign that the gym rat wasn't qualified to be evaluating Dwayner's skills. Hip belays make you laugh? I saved Mike Massey's life with a hip belay (a fall of over 100 feet). BTW, I like your thread, although I think a more appropriate topic title might be something like "Gym Etiquette". You married yet? Just curious about whether you were able to employ all of my ceremonial suggestions (groom meets bride under arch of ice axes, unity candle lanterns, bride feeds groom Power Gu (he reciprocates on honeymoon), etc.)

quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Topic: Gym Climbing Ethics ----------------------- Oxymoron: A rhetorical figure in which an epigrammatic effect is created by the conjunction of incongruous or contradictory terms. Examples: airline food * sanitary landfill * Amtrak schedule * cheerleading scholarship * comfortably dressed * educational television * french deodorant* instant classic * non-alcoholic beer * climbing gym ethics * Nice...don't forget "sport climbing", which might very well be defined as that brand of climbing from which sporting elements (adventure, route finding, risk) have been filtered. One time, me and my buddy Dwayner was over to the climbing gym in Ballard see, and they wasn't going to let Dwayner do any rope work in there (since he was a guest of mine, not a regular) unless he passes a belay test. Anyways, Dwayner's been climbing for a couple of decades and has instructed professionally under Big Jim DeWeeWee and so forth, and this gym rat feller is axing my buddy to take a belay test. Now Dwayner is understanding of liabilities and agrees to take the test see, and things is going pretty well until the gym rat decides to simulate a situation requiring tension. He axes Dwayner to "take" and Dwayner just doesn't respond, and so the gym rat axes him again and then 'splains to Dwayner that "take" is a request for the belayer to lock it down. Now Dwayner at this point has had enough and splains to the rat that he doesn't operate under those commands, and that "take" is a bastardization of the command "tension" and that perhaps the gym rat should be the guy under scrutiny.

Agent Orange, Maybe the wind came up in the night and covered their tracks with snow (as it sometimes will). Maybe the light was playing tricks on your eyes. Who knows? Colin says he's got photographs back already, so I would imagine if it's that important to you, you could figure out a way to check out the facts before going onto a message board to slander him.

Will, nice work sticking up for Lambone there, my friend (in that "Boot RURP" thread, now closed). I think Lambone's got a couple of redeeming qualities (at the moment, I must confess, they escape me), although he never hesistates to pick on the "old fuckers" and scrutinize their posts for anything he can conjure to be an ethical contradiction (in the sort of abrasive way that must be funny to somebody of a generation other than my own). And as long as you're criticizing one of my contemporaries as being a "has-been", I should note that a Leavenworth local reported to me that he saw you struggling on a top-rope which should have been well within the abilities of such a big-talking climbing authority.

One winter when I was really out of shape, I approached the Tooth with Colin, and I can tell you, the guy is a track star. The approach was the typical treacherous snowy talus, and I think we got to the South Face about noon or 1 p.m., with maybe three or four hours of light. The face was plastered with loose snow (I've climbed the Tooth in winter more times than in summer, and these conditions were about as bad as I've seen). I talked him out of climbing it, figuring we'd probably aid a fair amount of it and end up spending the night out. He wanted to try it anyway. The guys got ambition and he's quite fit. I believe his North Ridge story.

What? What is this I hear? The self-proclaimed bolting authority using 2-ply? Gotcha, Mr. Pope. If you were so concerned about the environment, you would use single-ply paper. Anyway, who cares about a few holes in the rock when folks in the CD are getting harassed by the man!

I prefer 2-ply, the kind with the pillowed texture. How 'bout you guys?

quote: Originally posted by chucK: But Mattp perhaps you are missing the twist! You see, mayhaps, Pope was actually clued in to his inconsistency by the heel nippers. He then felt bad that he might be contributing to the degradation of a fine area. The obvious easy way to undo any possible environmental damage (AND not give in to the heel nippers and save some face) was to now lie and say the trail doesn't exist, it's just a joke. Food for thought? Speculative. Hike up there and see if YOU can knock 17 minutes off your time. There is no trail. There is no damage. quote: Originally posted by mattp: isn't it also kind of obnoxious to deliberately post false beta on a board such as this? Is it really all that funny if some poor sucker reads your "beta" and misses the opportunity to undertake their dream climb of Outer Space on their one and only day off all summer? Thanks, Dad. I’m sure you’re right. I’m an A.H., and your scenario has such a high probability of transpiring that I feel awful. quote: Originally posted by willstrickland: Looks like reason and logic just took the last plane out of SeaTac[/QB] Please explain, Will. quote: Originally posted by Bronco: I also think pope's original post was a nice troll and he did an efficent job of running with whatever you goofballs gave him (and keep giving him) That was the intent, but some mad bolters let their guilt get the best of them and tried to find a character flaw in Pope. When you stick your head up, somebody is going to try to cut it off. Lambone’s got a sense of humor, and I kind of like the lad. A couple of other whiners on this board have volunteered for some kind of Pope Editorial Board, but most of them are sore that Pope has an issue with bolts. At least one of the guys who continually corrects me, who has been looking for contradictions and who has called me “dishonest”, is a guy who has retro-bolted a number of climbs, even without first consulting the guys who pioneered the route. He's the guy who inspired my 1000-word confession, telling Dwayner at Pube Club that Pope needed to 'fess up. Maybe we'll see him in Confessional. Look, my friends, it’s been nice. I don’t have the time. The useful information is sparse, as is the funny business, and the tension is high. See you in the hills.

quote: Originally posted by CAMAZONIA:

Absurd. You may catch me contradicting myself some day; I'll let you know when that happens. Sorry about the name calling. Occasionally you're not all that boring. The "convenience trail" is a joke Dwayner and I thought of when it turned out that our overland route took hours of scrambling over tangling brush and fallen/burned trees. We thought it would be funny to report the hike as a new and faster way to the wall. Nothing could be further from the truth. Nobody is ever going to use the route, and if they do, we will have a good laugh. That said, a new trail to SCW isn't a terrible idea. The existing trail is too steep in sections and prone to erosion, kind of like the old Castle Rock trail.

There is no trail. After a two-hour struggle through awful terrain, Dwayner and I said, "Let's put this on the net and tell everybody it's a short-cut."

Great title for a troll. I once had a thread called MEET MORE BABES. The content was nothing special, but the title suckered 'em in. It was hilarious to watch all of the action on "Who's On Line"!

quote: Originally posted by Lambone: Pope, So more bolts are bad...but more trails are ok??? There is your contradiction. And I didn't use a single "four letter word" in this thread until now...prick. Prick is a five-letter word. Also, there is no trail. Has reading comprehension always been so challenging?

There is nothing contradictory here, just a couple of chumps with reading comprehension limitations. When Limp Bone quotes me as saying that bolts are bad for the environment, I think he should clarify what he means by "bad for the environment." There don't seem to be any ecological consequences; it's not as though bolts disrupt the food chain. What I'm saying instead, and quite consistently I might add, is that bolts are ugly and alien to the mountain environment, and while they are justified in a few special circumstances, the degree to which modern climbing "culture" is willing to spray them all over the rock is bullshit. By this I mean that climbing to me is a wilderness experience and I wish to see a minimum of human traces when I climb. This is the content of the quote that JayB just pulled up. I've never said bolts are "bad for the environment", and I think I was right to correct Lambone in this misquote. Also, this Pearly Back Door thing has gone far enough. Limpy, JayB: YOU GUYS ARE BORING! JayB, you don't know don't know how to catch a guy in a contradiction, but you do a fine job of making an ass out of yourself in the process. Lambone, your greatest proficiency is in employing four-letter words to advance your imbecilic opinions. Guess what: there is no Pearly Back Door. There is no trail, the route is not fast. This is a little hike Dwayner and I did on a showery afternoon, through an obstacle course of brush, talus and fallen/burnt trees. If anybody wishes to hike this route, I can assure you he will do no environmental damage and that he will need two hours to approach SCW. I have no idea what a KTK is and I can assure you that I'm not associated with it/them/whatever.

Alpine K is OK by me. I have seen his "crowbar". Look out Lou!

What's all of this talk about leashless tools? Did Larry get loose again?

Nacho outnumbered his guests and a good time was had by all.

Charles, check your PM's.

quote: Originally posted by Charlie: Does anyone have a topo for Orbit that they could post on here or email me? Chuck? Of the 3 guidebooks I have covering this climb, the page is missing in all of them. Thanks In the long run, butt-wipe is cheaper than guidebook pages.