pope

quote: Originally posted by allison: quote:Originally posted by pope: My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead. Hmm....gee, I don't know, Pope, maybe because it's FUN, and it makes us HAPPY? Here's to appropriately placed bolts, preferably of the FAT variety! Are we confusing happiness with narcissism? You'll get equal pleasure, adventure and sense of accomplishment from a toprope, without the mess left on a typical sport route.

Another cool problem is on the bunny slab, canal side. Ascend the right edge of this slab, using only the 24-inch strip between the overhanging Tales of Power wall and a linear concrete feature on the slab. Pretend it's an alpine ledge high on the Eiger of whatever. Harder when snowing.

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: Does everyone know Coach Crack? It's the good hand crack on the water side, furthest east wall. Layback the left side, features only for feet, no crack for feet. A good one! V4? This is known as "Satan's Layback". I showed it to Eric Winkleman and he cruised it like it was 5.8. Coach is a cool guy and part of the "culture" that makes the UW rock my favorite bouldering haunt. Screw you guys for chastising him. Another great problem: the roofy finger crack on the west end, no rocks/no crack for the feet. Check out the guide by Scotty Hopkins and Erik Wolfe for some great problems. Most impressive high-ball I've seen: on the Stadium side of the tower, the left side of this face (between widening crack and left edge), no rocks for the feet!

When's the new Leavenworth guide coming out?

Red Hot Tower! (while Coach throws the Death Asteroid at you and encourages you to climb faster because you're 40 feet out from your last RP, you've just dropped the rack, Johnny Bachar is climbing up your ass, there's a thunderclap threatening, and you're belayer is smokin' out!)

quote: Originally posted by sexual chocolate: BTW, damn good climbing. Haven't tried it, but it's the tips crack out in the desert that goes at 12d? I guess, but it felt like 5.11b by Joshua Tree standards. I'm sure it's quite a bit harder to lead. We also toproped Baby Apes which at 5.12c could have been 5.13 as far as I know. That mother is a bear, a brown bear. Couldn't even get the move.

quote: Hah! You're back! How did the sw(?) face of half-dome go? ....[/QB] With only six days and feeling a little out of shape, I went to Squamish instead. Fun in the sun rock work/hiking. Some little puke made a mess out of my door lock one night.

I'm glad I missed this one! Mentioning....well, this has nothing to do with whatever this thread was about. Anyhooters, I just picked up Beckham's Squamish guide and noticed that in his preface pages he admonishes climbers who toprope a classic climb to death (his example was Flying Circus), stating that excessive travel and sloppy bootwork make these routes slick. I never thought about this, but I tend to agree. When I started climbing, if there was a classic pitch that I knew protected well but that was out of my range, I waited until I was pretty sure I could lead the damn thing in good style. To TR first and lead later was like having the answers handed to me, like paying a girl to be intimate. It is amazing how many climbers I meet who will toprope the mystery right out of a climb and then come back to lead it later. Dudes, you're really cheating yourselves of a thrill, and according to Beckham, you're damaging the route. As an anecdote, I should add that I once toproped Equinox in Joshua Tree. Given the grade and my mediocre abilities, I assumed I would never be able to lead it and that toproping would be a huge struggle. To my surprise, I got that thing first try, and I noticed that the gear was superb and easy to get. I'll probably never lead it, but I kick myself for not trying to lead it on sight.

quote: Originally posted by Dr Flash Amazing: Dr. Flash Amazing will likewise avoid the time-wasting sport/anti-sport with you, and instead go home seeking alcohol.[/QB] CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION CAUTION.....Sport doggin' and booze hounding don't mix! You'll get fat, son. Put the six-pack back and get your six-pack back.

quote: Originally posted by erik: pope good one on dr sniff....awesome route....i get inside that thing...it turns into like preprogrammed fingers with some chimmeny technique....and a bit of thrutch bob's your uncle is the one at vantage you are thinking about..... You get any gear in that thing? I only remember thinking that the "crux" felt like disco and the flair felt like a mosh pit.

My favorite sport is climbing. Clipping my way up a monotonously bolted rock doesn't feel very sporting and one could argue that it isn't climbing at all (or at least that it has more in common with toproping than real leading). Not trying to sound condescending here, just trying to understand why somebody would put all of that effort into bolting(littering) when the result isn't going to be a real lead.

Seems like the conclusion to Dr. Sniff (Index)is some kind of flair....I remember having nothing that would fit and it seemed like the crux to me. I was at Index one day when some unfortunate fellow on Dr. Sniff thought he was doing the second pitch of Princely Ambitions and fell onto that spike when he attempted to clip his third piece. I'm not sure that the response to his accident is typical of what one can expect at Index, but I've since determined never to break so much as a fingernail out there. OW's in the specified grade: Split Beaver, Squamish; the original start to Yak Crack, Coquihalla area, B.C.; 2nd pitch of the Gendarme on N. Ridge of Stuart; Easter Overhang (actually more like the best hand crack in Leavenworth); Damnation. There's a great 5.9 wide-jobby right of Stems-n-Seeds over in (disad-)Vantage, but I can't think of the name just now.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Well you claimed it was a "sunny day" and I was wondering why you thought that. The odd thing is you claimed to know the weather, then call the report a lie, then base a conclusion on my identity based on that very lie. Amazing! I admit at first your fascination with me was a bit endearing - still odd though - but now it is just plain creepy. By the way every time I see that "sixpack ab" commercial on TV I think: Hey Pope bears an ucanny resemblance to fitness celebrity Jon Basedow! Inquiring minds want to know. PP I was down near Westport all week and it was sunny enough, so I just made an assumption about the weather. My point is that your story removes all doubt in my mind: you are not Matt K. [ 10-20-2002, 11:03 AM: Message edited by: pope ]

Scott, the photo doesn't do much for me, but I can understand the inspiration. I've never seen anybody finish that TR, and those who have completed/attempted the moves probably aren't giving you any shit. I can't identify the climber in the photo, but I heard a rumor that he puffs in the Muir hut. [ 08-12-2002, 11:42 AM: Message edited by: pope ]

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Now Pope just what the heck are you raving about? What a goofball! And the story is most certainly true. By the way exactly what was the date of the day that was wasted? As always chatter and no content. The date of the day wasted? What was the date of your birth? But seriously, I'm not sure I understand your question. It was your adventure. When did it happen? And have your climbed Rainier? Dru, nice to know you were thinking of me when I was away. Sorry I missed the first printing, but I was at the beach teaching my kid to fly a kite. BTW, I took my name from a character in a Clint Eastwood movie.

Very clever. For anybody who would believe this ridiculous story, there now exists serious doubt that you and Matt K. are the same animal. Ain't no way Matt would ever blow his sunny day foolin' around like that. Now answer me this question. Have you ever climbed Mt. Rainier? If so, provide the details of any adolescent ascents you might have made of "Raindawg", and I will know for certain whether or not you are Matt K.

[ 10-20-2002, 11:05 AM: Message edited by: pope ]

[ 10-20-2002, 11:04 AM: Message edited by: pope ]

We won't be too picky, although a thong might end up in MattP's top drawer.

quote: Originally posted by gapertimmy: I dont' own a mini van.... so if i understand correctly... should I buy one and become a true hard man? I can't promise that owning a minivan will impact your climbing skills, but they're great for cruising for "MILTFS" in the Walmart parking lot. Driving a minivan is a sign of maturity; it makes a statement about your priorities, let's the ladies know that you care about children. Nine times out of ten, that'll get a single mom all hot and bothered!

I happen to know that three of the most bad-ass climbers in the state do/have owned minivans: JY, Mike Massey, and Pope. You guys can kiss my ass!

[ 10-20-2002, 11:07 AM: Message edited by: pope ]

Needle-n-Spoon. Bring your fly-paper shoes and some adult-sized Huggies.

quote: Originally posted by Peter Puget: Off- Isn't "chicken" in the phrase "chicken bolt" redundent? Peter Peter, that sounds like some of my B.S. My two cents is that if you can get by without the bolt, by all means do. On the other hand, if the quality of the pitch warrants the attention of many climbers, and if only one bolt is "required" to protect a deadly section, then get the opinion of climbers from across the spectrum as to whether the run-out section is really "deadly" and whether the bolt is "required" to make the climb "reasonable". These terms are fairly subjective to be sure. Finally, ask yourself whether addition of the bolt is going to add something to the cliff. By that I mean, is the line going to be of such quality that a bolt seems worth it? I think that bolts generally detract from a cliff, unless the route being added is so stellar as to be worth one or two bolts. In some cases, such as at a cliff that already offers a variety of excellent routes and where bolts have "traditionally" been avoided, I would avoid the bolt at all costs. A measure of risk and the general absence of artificial modifications help preserve what is great about mountaineering.

There's a blow-down on the Porcupine Creek side of Cutthroat Pass that would take two weeks to clear WITH POWER EQUIPMENT!