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Everything posted by Bronco
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I agree with this and will often carry an extra base layer shirt in case I get sweaty or wet from rain/brush on the approach. I might wear a windshirt over it if it's cold but I try to keep my good shell and puffy in my pack until the pace slows down or terrain becomes technical.
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I don't think anything is forming up yet but you can call Goat's Beard in Mazama and ask for conditions.
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Benzo, why not try to return the gear to the climbers who dropped it? Seems like "not booty" if the climbers were in plain sight and possible to return the gear.
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Muir on Saturday?
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- alaska
- ski touring
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Looks like the first posts were October of 2000 so 19 years of some questionable contributions to culture. I think I was still on dial up AOL account that we shared in the office with 3 people.
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Good trail to the top of Easy Peak. Getting to and up Whatcom is quite a bit more vigorous and challenging.
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[TR] Das Toof - The Tooth Fairy, 5.9+ 08/15/2019
Bronco replied to tanstaafl's topic in Alpine Lakes
Is this supposed to be an endorsement? -
Seems credible.
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Nice work on this tough peak. Many of us appreciate you not posting summit nudes.
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first ascent [TR] Vesper Peak - The Ragged Edge 8/18/2013
Bronco replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
30 could be a little high but we were at the approach ledge at 9:30 and there were already multiple groups on the face that probably summited by 11:00. I assume a bunch of folks camped out at the lake Friday night and were climbing shortly after dawn. We counted approximately a dozen different parties, some with 3 climbers. Certainly not the place to be if you're looking for solace. I do agree with Jason, there are a lot more folks out climbing these days. -
first ascent [TR] Vesper Peak - The Ragged Edge 8/18/2013
Bronco replied to dberdinka's topic in North Cascades
Climbed this yesterday, what a fun route! There were probably 30 climbers sharing the stoke on Ragged Edge and True Grit with a gaggle of international tourists at the top applauding as we summited. -
question HMG 4400 ice pack vs Osprey Aether Pro
Bronco replied to Loco Raindrops's topic in The Gear Critic
If you're a desk jockey with too much time to "research" the latest and greatest, they can be appealing. I have a the 40l HMG Icepack I found on Craigslist a few months ago and paid about 50% of the new price. I generally leave the brain off my other packs anyway in favor of stuff sacks inside the pack and a hip pocket for readily accessed small items. The HMG pack does carry better than my other packs in the 40-60l size but, as the OP suspects, it's pretty sweaty and warm on your back. It is pretty much waterproof, which has been nice for SAR missions in the rain. -
question Another Approach shoes and crampon thread
Bronco replied to careyjd's topic in The Gear Critic
I agree with Jason, you won't be front pointing anything in approach shoes so the nanotech's are probably a waste of $ for that purpose. These work pretty well with stiffer approach shoes and fold up nicely for the 99% of the time you're carrying them in your pack for route's you've mentioned: https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/Crampons/LEOPARD-FL- 5 replies
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- approach shoe
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Did you see this? http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8029895 Was up at Cascade Pass on Fathers Day and snow was still covering the ground.
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Looks to be confirmed! Awesome! : https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/liberty-ridge-sar-6-6-2019.htm
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3 days exposed at that location is pretty tough. Hope they hang in there.
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While I agree this is a practical approach in many alpine climbs, I also think taking advantage of the early AM temperatures on the ascent from the Carbon Glacier, take a long rest break at Thumb Rock and get moving again once it's cooled down overnight for the ascent to the summit is the generally accepted "best practice". This also allows for some recovery and acclimation to take place to help move quickly on the upper part of the route. I know anyone who was much above Thumb Rock on the afternoon we were there would've been swept off by a giant serac calving event in the heat of the day. Any way you do it, you have to accept that you're rolling the dice on this route.
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Pretty tenuous spot to camp with lots of objective risk. Rock fall, serac collapse, avalanche, falling off the west side of the ridge to name a few. That is one route you don't hear many people climbing more than once for good reason. RIP to the fallen climber.
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[TR] Buckner Mountain/Mount Buckner - North Face 05/14/2019
Bronco replied to Alisse's topic in North Cascades
I think it's SOP for Buckner's North Face to climb unroped after exiting the Boston Glacier. It's too steep to arrest a rope mate's fall and aren't any (many?) crevasses once across the bergschrund. Sounds like Alisse just discovered a random thin spot where a moat was lurking. -
[TR] Mt Baring 2-fer (north and south peaks) - Standard 05/19/2019
Bronco replied to needtoclimb's topic in North Cascades
Me and a buddy did Mt. Baring main peak and then south peak in the fall of 2002 but I don't remember anything more than scrambling around on the SW aspect. Looks better with some snow on it. I was recently thinking of the Skykomish Valley version of the "North Bend Triple" and think a fit scrambler could do Gunn-Merchant-Baring in a day. You could be set up to re-supply at a vehicle between peaks. Approximately 22 miles and 12,000' vert, probably doable in a day but I'd take a headlamp for sure. Someone has probably done it.