Bronco

Did you see this? http://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8029895 Was up at Cascade Pass on Fathers Day and snow was still covering the ground.

Pretty neat that you guys ran into Alex Honnold!

Looks to be confirmed! Awesome! : https://www.nps.gov/mora/learn/news/liberty-ridge-sar-6-6-2019.htm

3 days exposed at that location is pretty tough. Hope they hang in there.

While I agree this is a practical approach in many alpine climbs, I also think taking advantage of the early AM temperatures on the ascent from the Carbon Glacier, take a long rest break at Thumb Rock and get moving again once it's cooled down overnight for the ascent to the summit is the generally accepted "best practice". This also allows for some recovery and acclimation to take place to help move quickly on the upper part of the route. I know anyone who was much above Thumb Rock on the afternoon we were there would've been swept off by a giant serac calving event in the heat of the day. Any way you do it, you have to accept that you're rolling the dice on this route.

Pretty tenuous spot to camp with lots of objective risk. Rock fall, serac collapse, avalanche, falling off the west side of the ridge to name a few. That is one route you don't hear many people climbing more than once for good reason. RIP to the fallen climber.

I think it's SOP for Buckner's North Face to climb unroped after exiting the Boston Glacier. It's too steep to arrest a rope mate's fall and aren't any (many?) crevasses once across the bergschrund. Sounds like Alisse just discovered a random thin spot where a moat was lurking.

Me and a buddy did Mt. Baring main peak and then south peak in the fall of 2002 but I don't remember anything more than scrambling around on the SW aspect. Looks better with some snow on it. I was recently thinking of the Skykomish Valley version of the "North Bend Triple" and think a fit scrambler could do Gunn-Merchant-Baring in a day. You could be set up to re-supply at a vehicle between peaks. Approximately 22 miles and 12,000' vert, probably doable in a day but I'd take a headlamp for sure. Someone has probably done it.

They all show up nicely for me!

I'm not 100% sure this is the one DPS refers to but there's a good possibility it is:

Still above .500!

I believe the point is still valid (upgrading your old beacon) but if you want to remove the post or links, feel free. I try to be consistent with providing a link to the source if I'm copy and pasting something. Is this a breach of internet protocol? I seriously don't know.

from here: https://www.adventure-journal.com/2019/04/might-it-be-time-to-replace-your-old-avy-beacon/ How long have you had your cell phone? Probably less three years, statistically speaking. Tech changes so you change your phone. Simple enough. But if you’re a backcountry skier or snowshoer, or otherwise venture into avalanche zones—what about your avalanche beacon? How often do you replace that? Technology changes quickly in those units too. Dual-antennae beacons were widely used in for years, but now three-antennae are the standard. Take it from the Canadian Avalanche Association: “Dual antenna digital transceivers aren’t obsolete, but they’re dated. The current crop of three antenna digital transceivers supersedes them and provides clear advantages over previous generations… Through May 1, if you want to trade up to the most modern avy beacons on the market, at least those made by Ortovox, any Ortovox dealer will accept an old beacon, no matter who made it, for $75 credit toward their new Ortovox 3+ beacon. Unsure if your beacon is starting to be outdated? The Canadian Avalanche Association has a checklist of reasons to update here.

Great story!

Shirtless Tech bro sighting IMG_2732 2.HEIC

I have a wide, high volume foot and the Salewa boots are my new favorite, better fit for me than the Scarpa Charmoz. I have put a bunch of miles on the Rapace which hikes great and climbs ok since it's a 3/4 shank. I also have the Vultur boot that I picked up cheap off of Ebay last fall and really like them as well but they are overkill for anything but cold weather. I think the Crows would be great for PNW 3 season climbing and I might replace the Rapace boots with them when they wear out. And of course, DPS's advice and list are spot on. Except the Hexes.

When do these guys reveal themselves to be the crappy team they're supposed to be? Right after the all star break like last year? I just looked and discovered the only other time the M's have started out 6-1, was the legendary 1995 season where they saved baseball in Seattle, winning their first AL West title and making a run to the ALCS. This could be the year they go to the World Series!

That's great you found something that fits so well, six miles with no problems is pretty successful out of the box. You may already be aware of this but, it's I believe it's really important to take your boots to the shop and try different crampons on them to make sure they fit the welt and width of your particular boot prior to purchasing. Anyone who has much alpine climbing experience can attest to the importance of this being a secure fit. I've been that guy who buy's the new sexy crampons on-line only to find out they don't really fit my boots when they start rattling around on a climb where a loss of traction is going to have some consequences. You should REALLY like the way the crampon hugs your boot. Anyway, I hope that helps!

Whoops, that was DPS' list, for some reason I though it was yours. Carry on -

You don't need the stove or the rope. RMI will provide those and will probably be annoyed if you show up with them. You might add gators to your list, it seems like that was a requirement in the olden days. I'm sure they'll send you a very detailed packing list once you register.

Welcome to CC.com! I'd suggest getting your pack weight down (80 lbs!) and do some steep snow hikes if you have access. RMI should have some other recommendations for your gear (don't bring more than what they list) and training on their website. I was able to climb the DC route with RMI in the year of 2000 so keep that in mind. The RMI bivy shack at Camp Muir is a smelly place that I wouldn't depend on getting a lot of sound sleep the night before summit day. You're in one room with a bunch of other strangers farting and snoring. I think they get you up at midnight anyway so it's not like you're trying to get 8 hours of sleep. On summit day, you'll be teamed up on a rope with people who don't have as much experience/fitness and some folks who have more than you. RMI may turn around folks who aren't comfortable or able to continue at certain points. When I climbed with them (a long time ago) on summit day I switched rope teams 3-4 times as folks dropped off. So long as you have ok weather and you're able to physically keep up, you should be able to continue on to the summit. The DC route in prime climbing season is a circus but interesting enough terrain to keep your attention. Hope that helps -

Salewa has some great boots out as well. Ascent Outdoors shop in Ballard has one of the best selections of boots around and pretty knowledgable folks working there.

Black diamond Bod and Alpine Bod appear to use the old style buckle.

I watched Free Solo and then Dawn Wall the next night. Interesting contrast even thought both we filmed on El Cap. I was touched by Caldwell choosing to help Kevin work through the crux for a few days instead of just finishing the climb. I thought it was a much more enjoyable film than Free Solo.