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texplorer

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Everything posted by texplorer

  1. Whatever you do -don't get on classic crack at broughton!
  2. Sport Clipping Plywood may be a sport but it is not climbing. REAL climbing is about REAL rock and the outdoors and the experience of challenging yourself against NATURE. Tori is a gifted athlete and I hope she does well but until she solos the reticent, climbs K2 w/o oxygen, and also onsights .13d outside then I will not give her the all-round title of world's best climber.
  3. There have been some studies showing that it increases the likelyhood of muscle strains and you really have to drink alot of water when on the stuff but actually has shown to increase strength in tests outside of the usual "bodybuilding-load-o-shit-tests".
  4. Mister E is correct about a slightly higher C rating for routes. That being said, over time aid routes get easier so what was A2 in your book might be C2 now. If you don't hammer anything the route went clean for you. That includes clipping any fixed gear ie nuts, pins, copperheads,etc. Hand placing pins is also considered clean but the second you use anything to bang into the rock it is not clean aid anymore -ie you can't use that big hex to hammer either).
  5. Check out these guys from Texplorer's hometown And see this link for more Sweetwater Rattlesnake Roundup
  6. So we read about steph D. and Beth R. and the Jose whoever frenchie climbing one pitch hard routes and an occasional big wall with their boyfriends but where are the Hard women sending in the mountains? Why is there no female version of Twight out there. I might just be naive to these women but I don't think I have ever even heard of a women climbing something technical and gnarly (big himalyan walkups don't count). I was just wondering if anyone knew of any women out there or would speculate on why there are so few women pushing the limits in the alpine world.
  7. I didn't get a chance to climb much but went big when I did this summer. Here are my top three - spray at will. 1) Nose in a day 2) Grand Wall at Squish 3) Solo of the Prow It was a pretty good summer.
  8. I have done a decent amount of vertical ice with my crappy salawa alpine crampons. Its more about you than the crampons.
  9. I have not been climbing for all that long but I have seen the number of climbers grow at Smith for example. The increased number dictate the "timbers" and trails at Smith to minimize the damage. I am saddened somewhat by this but I am also a cause of this development. In addition, I have participated in two clean-up days under the base of el cap and each time I go back there is still more shitbags and trash. Maybe we aren't more clean than in the 80's but we have more of these clean-up days. It is simply a fact that more people climb now and so we must deal with the trash that everyone leaves behind as I doubt people are miraculously going to become cleaner on their own.
  10. If you ski down hood you are a lamo freshiez lover and not a "real" climber. Skis are aid. Hike off like a real man.
  11. Relaxing on lead so that I feel the same as climbing on TR.
  12. When was the last time you couldn't do a climb cause your abs, back, or biceps gave out. If it happened you should work on form more which is from . . . more climbing. Twight has alot of good things to say but his training regimen is crap and based on his false ideas on training.
  13. Fear is an irrational instinct that I try to minimize. It sometimes causes people to perform above their abilities but more commonly results in being gripped and performing with less than normal ability. Danger on the other hand is real and should respected accordingly. I have been in some hairy situations but I would say that my greatest fears have been of the unknown. I have realized that the "unknown" is rarely as bad as it seems. It is this reason that I say that I rarely get scared. That being said I am very aware of the dangers of climbs. I believe that situations in which I am scared do not warrent remembering except to learn to deal with the danger in a more realistic and appropriate way.
  14. Are you still considering not going to the Beckfest? Just think, "What would Beckey do?"
  15. Just two words - licorice and Jagermeister
  16. Interesting how one word is actually two in CC.com world. My heroes have usually been imaginary people like Dr. Jones, and Luke Skywalker but I have to say Lance Armstrong is someone I really admire for his poise, work ethic, and inner drive. I try use others accomplishments to motivate me to exhibit those qualities in activities in which I pursue.
  17. I can't remember a more fun weekend at Smith. Great people, great climbing, great beer, great HC, real women climbers, -what more could you ask for? It was great to put faces to a few more CC.comers. I had a great time climbing with everyone and hope to get to climb with you all alot more. Thanks Timm@y and everyone for good times.
  18. I was out of pro so I looked in my rucksack and what do you know I had one number 7 yam left. I wedged it as securely as possible, slung it, and . . . .
  19. Thanks for the info-Flash. Do they have any job openings there?
  20. Does anyone have an extra ride from portland friday evening?
  21. Sounds good but I assume dues will go up as well.
  22. Don't tape up and get your first knuckle in there and crank down.
  23. When is the new PDX gym supposed to open. I will probably be joining that thing next month. I guess I better get my lycra out of the storage unit again.
  24. JayB I don't know what you climb but here's my top pics. Sport: .6 Super Slab .7 10 gallon buckets .8 West Face Variation of Monkeyface (bring aiders for A0) .9 Revelations .10a Phoenix .10b BBQ the pope .10c Screamin Yellow Zonkers .10d Moons of Pluto .11a Pure Palm .11b Vomit Launch .12a Heinous Cling (first pitch) I don't climb harder than this so ask glasgow or DFA for harder stuff. Trad .7 Moscow .8 Peking .9 Moonshine Dihedral .10a Cruel Sister .10b Blood clot .10c Prometheus .11a Master Looney .11b Wartley's Revenge
  25. texplorer

    Time Machine

    I don't believe your post Dr. There is too much about climbing on that forum.
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