texplorer

I decided not to head up either. Seems like a gumbie weekend.

Still want to go!!!!!

cracked, are you sure limp dick is .11b? I think you might be thinking of satisfaction which feels more .11b-ish.

pro to 3 inches for fat crack, pro to 2.5 for limp dick, and small stuff for eveything else.

The columns is like 5 blocks from the crux. You can actually see them from the crux I think. It's pretty small so you'll be able to size up the cracks quickly. Everything is topropable (hike around to the top). My favs are fat crack 5.7-8 (the obvious wider crack), Limp Dick .10b (farthest to the right before the chainlink fence) and the chimney. It's a great place to take budding climbers, leaders, or just spend some time. If the weather's nice expect a crowd though.

In my arrogant opinion (IMAO) you are not "climbing" if your not leading or soloing. TR is practice. Trad routes are routes that you solely place your own gear on lead. If you don't place it on lead it is trad practice, aka pussie-point. (and no you didn't get the redpoint even on a 5.14 route if the gear was preplaced ) If its that hard and you need to place gear in advance then call it a naturally protected sport lead. But really folks, who cares, just do the climb.

Posting on CC.com is neither

Looks like a good place to grow you secret weed stash.

aaahhhhh mountaineering!

Nice post Foxbro, Sounds like you got on some peaches. I can't wait to get back this weekend.

Is DrTopo the lost cousin oc Dr. Flash Amazing?

Maybe could could place gear if he did a finger or hand jam one the route instead of crimping the hell out of all those little edges. Oh, and Jonah, who are you to say none of us could do that climb placing our own gear. Maybe we are all badasses.

Anyone. . . anyone. . . bueller.. . . .

Texplorer will be there with Texplorita. Vegas has 3 to 1 odds against RuMR showing up.

When you see a fine looking line just remember: WWBD (What Would Beckey Do)

I have a partner but would like a ride to Moab and back for spring break. I can leave thursday, friday, or saturday (18th-20). I will pay my part of gas and a little extra for mileage on your vehicle.

Too Late Ian, . . . . .Luke. . . let the hate flow through you. . . .

I just realized I have been posting. . . .er. . . . wasting time on this site for over 3 years. Here's to CC.com and all my cc.com friends

Soon Distal will be take beta from me, the Dark Trad Lord. Eat your heart out DFA. Muha haha hahah hahah hahaaaaa

Good luck, its "the greatest rock climb in the world".

I understand your concerns doolittle. I am very aware that rapping is one time when there is really no backup. But, what is cavalier to you is simple and a reasonable risk to me. Not to be nit picky about it but how is that helmet you are talking about going to save you when the 180lb guy falls on you?

Yes Ian, I F@#$ed up that time. That has nothing to do with rapping except that I was off of that ridge about 2 minutes faster than slothrop and 2 minutes faster out of danger.

very true, but you forgot about tieing and untieing all those knots at the end of your ropes and I also don't use a locker to clip in at anchors either so . . . say a 10 pitch route 10 raps x 5 secs per rap check x 2 rap checks x 2 partners = 200 sec 10 raps x 2 ends of rope x 20 sec per knot = 400 sec 10 raps x 2 ends of rope x 30 sec per untie = 600 sec 10 raps x 3 sec less than locking biner to clip in =30 sec 10 raps x 3 sec less than locking biner to unclip = 30 sec 200+400+600+30+30=1260 1260/60 = 21minutes On a big 30 pitch route that comes out to 63 minutes and that's not even including when your ropes get stuck or the additional time your have to wait while your partner raps (because you have to wait to thread the anchors because you wouldn't want to untie the knots while they rap - this probably adds another hour or so)

C-seat, I understand that not everyone thinks the way I do. I am not criticizing being safe. What I am complaining about is why people have to come on here and remind us (who really already know) how to do it "right". Climbing is inherently dangerous PERIOD. If you want a totally safe sport then maybe climbing is not for you. I personally enjoy the possibility of danger and the thrill of knowing that every little action is important. That is what keeps me interested in climbing. . . and yes, if you screw up, you die. I think we all know that. You climb the way you want and I'll climb the way I want and if you don't climb like I do that's ok. (I just probably won't be trying to do some big routes with someone that in my opinion is "overly" safe.

maybe you should change your autosig sobo