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texplorer

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Everything posted by texplorer

  1. The chimney is not really a sandbag. It is solid 5.9 just don't fall in a few spots as pro is sketchy at times.
  2. All I feel is the plastic holds for the next 6 months.
  3. Screw the fickle snow and weather and drive to Smith to crank down some cracks in the gorge!!!
  4. Dru memorizes stuff so when he starts climbing the .14 cracks he'll know where to find them.
  5. Lots of good suggestions on how to get to .12. First, it is possible! I went from my first lead to .12 in about 2 years. It really is about changing your approach. Dedicate yourself totally and things will progress fast. That means climbing EVERY weekend, religiously getting to the gym 2-3 days a week and sticking to a plan. Eliminate any fears (falling, gear pulling, etc) and spend all your time reading about, thinking about, and getting out there and doing climbing. PS don't forget rest days.
  6. Very nice pics, looks like some fun stuff. One question? Why is this in the California route report section though?
  7. If your brave you can stamp your gear lightly with your initials. It doesn't seem to get done much anymore but I have found several older biners with the owner's initials on the gear.
  8. The PRG has always been a sausagefest Layton! The PRG staff consists mainly of non-climbers now. Many are now into "climbing" but only because they got the job. Gary occasionally puts up short man problems which consist of crimps and super high feet. The place is pretty much played out except for the newbies who get a yearly membership and then never return. Anyway, when my yearly runs out this time I'm done with them.
  9. What is going to be in your climbing section?
  10. In the past our sport has gone from getting to the top of things to free climbing them to freeing harder lines cleanly. Most recently difficult sport faces were bolted and the rating skyrocketed. As the rating game seems to be coming to a close the speed ascentionists picked up and have made grade 6's into single push climbs and grade 5's into hourly affairs. The big wall aid lines are going free all over the place too. My question is - where do we go from here. Last year Potter pushed the length of pitches with his ascent of the tombstone, The Hubers and Caldwell are freeing everything on the Cap, and Ogden is putting up multi-pitch sustained routes with D (drytool) pitches thrown into the mix. I guess I wonder where this current generation of climbers are making their mark and pushing the bounds. What is frivility and what is the next buzz spin-off. Personally I find the new super long pitches the most interesting. With newer ropes stretching over 230 feet there are many classic lines that could be extended into new extra long "super pitches." What are your thoughts?
  11. Oh and DON'T TRY THIS AT HOME OR IN THE CREEK!!!!
  12. Tori can trust in Jesus. I trust my aliens and pray to the snaffle.
  13. I got sloshed friday night. Great to see all the old friends and meet some new faces too. Where was DFA?
  14. The bloom's guidebook is good even though he didn't put my routes in the thing. Have fun, there's so much to do. Crag amazing cracks, stellar towers, or adventurous new or seldom visited routes all abound in the desert.
  15. Where are the pics of the 1000 ft granite cliffs?
  16. I recently left some cams with a guy named Greg who is on the Yosemite Valley Search and Rescue (YOSAR). He was in camp 4 just a few weeks ago but I have no way to contact him. If anyone knows him or how to get in contact with him I would appreciate the help.
  17. You were mislead. The Texas System is as such: a Texan falls into a crevass. You invade Mexico to stop the evil doers from building those deep holes in glaciers.
  18. Rages are great tools.
  19. A TG Keg will arrive in the Texplormobile around 9:00ish.
  20. Duct tape is good for holding hooks in place while you climb past them.. . . or do they not do that up there in canada
  21. tri-cams - SUCK TCU's - OK Hexes - SUCK Wildcountry Cams - GOOD Nuts - YES BD Camalots .5 through 3.5 - YES Aliens blue through red - YES
  22. Nice job, what were your 5 towers. . .let me guess, 1) Ancient Art 2) Kor Ingals on Castleton 3) South Six Shooter 4) the Owl 5) Sister Superior - Jah Man
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