Dru

i just mamboed it!!!

meow

i CALL FOR A NEW FORUM JUST FOR PUB CLUB

yup!

and this morning was 0303 hrs on 03/03/03, you missed it!!!! but it will still be 3:03 PM in 2 hours or so!

"Hey DOOOOD!! How's the EPIC going? You guys spooning yet? I'm eating burgers and watching hockey now! Have fun at that unequipped bivi SUCKA!"

lose weight, go mountaineering after the "ihimaT" trip my love handles went from being slopers to crimpers... 12 hour day on one and one chocolate bar does it to ya.

gamma SV is much thicker and heavier material than gamma MX. both are Malden Powershield but the Mx is "Powershield Lite" which is much thinner fleecy material on the inner SV is warmth wise, like schoeller over 200 fleece in one piece, maybe a bit heavier but more breathable than the combo of the 2. MX is like schoeller over underwear... in terms of thickness and weight. SV fabric must weigh at least 50% more thanMX ( i say that not looking at the catalog). i would guess overall (including zippers etc) the MX is 25%-30% lighter than the SV. also less warm so more 3-season versatility. SV is really a winter thing only. too hot to wear climbing at smoke bluffs on sunny day in february. gamma LT is just a schoeller dynamic, no fleece. MEC has the Pamir, which is more or less equivalent to the SV bib/jacket. they also have an even thicker, heavier line called the Composite, which has thicker fleece on the inside. serious winter use only i guess.

"better safe than sorry". lets say the boys were hanging off a single screw, both with broken pelvises, etc., slowly freezing to death and saying to themselves... "it's been 2 days now, why is no one looking for us?" not that anyone should call sar in on you if you are like 1 hr late, or unintentionally overnighting...cause epix build character... of course if you take a CELLPHONE then your loved ones can just call you up and ask you if you are Ok or not

did someone say real world las vegas Las Vegas Rules!!!!!

i am psyched to drink beer and climb stuff. i will tell you what im planning to climb after i climb it. the other way around always seems like i jinx it if i talk about it and dont end up doing it.

two current road bulletins here http://www.bivouac.com/RoadPg.asp?RoadId=1101 must be some alder further up the valley still.

Uncle Tricky

Has Greg Child been hired to ghost write the coffee table book yet?

you mean the "skaeP redroB"

jesse's beta is better than mine was .

1) gate is 1km from main road you would have to MTB about 8 km...it isnt too bad, i did it once in 1996 when it was all aldered over and had to push bike uphill a bit ; the steepest grade is near the bottom. 2) get a canuck to pick up the key for ya. tell someone in hope (like someone that works in a gas station or coffee shop that will be open when you head up there) that you'll pay em $20 to pick up and drop off the key.

its always possible to write a tr without thumping oneself on the pectorals.....learning how to do so is a skill. are you writing to describe what happened, to provide info for others attempting the climb, or are you writing to inflate your climbing resume? tell tale signs of the latter are inflated grades, time car to car reported to nearest second, and photos with the camera tilted.... by far the best TR i read on this site was the Yocum Ridge attempt from last summer. mike layton's report on big-4 was pretty good!

Steven Harng and I went into a "secret area" on Saturday where there is a lot of sweet unclimbed ice and alpine potential. The east face of "iohymoT .tM" has some obvious couloirs, gullies and lots of weeping ice flows formed from snow melt. We left Chilliwack at 7 Am and drove from Chilliwack up "keerC ihimaT" which takes one back into the mountains. Parking at about km 15 or 16 we packed, hiked the snow covered road for a ways then dropped into the forest and made a stealth crossing of the American border. Almost immediately several black helicopters from Homeland Security flew overhead searching for the terrorists penetrating American territory but they must have mistaken us for snafflehounds cause we survived! Hiking up the creek to reach the east face was totally a mistake. Should have continued further up the road. It took us almost 4 hous to get to the base of the face. Much of that was spent wallowing through snow covered boulder fields and crossing avvy chutes full of devils club. We had to cross the creek several times on ice and snow covered logs but managed not to fall in. This side of the mountain is set up as follows: the big north face is bounded on the left by the NE spur. Left of the NE spur is a triangular wall, ~400m high, the "NE facet". This is bounded on its left by a deep, hidden couloir running all the way to the famous bench glacier atop the face. Left of the hidden couloir is the true east face. We reached the NE facet around noon or oneish. Post holing was slow enough that we didnt even bother continuing to the E face although our original plan was to try and do an alpine route all the way to the top of the E face and then descend the N face couloir. On the NE facet there were 5 potential ice lines reminiscent of some place like the famous Stanley Headwall: huge drips of overhanging ice blobs interspersed with overhanging mixed rock sections and thinner ramps. We chose the left most and easiest line which went up a gully for several pitches to an apparent short final pillar. The route went at 3 pitches to the base of the pillar: 60m WI3, 30m WI2, 50m WI3 R. The first pitch was a gully, sometimes thin, reminiscent of "the Waterhole" route in the Bow Valley. Steve got a sketchy belay in at the top of this pitch with about 1m of rope left. When I followed we tried to beef up the belay but the only gear that we could have got in, aside from the 2 equalized TriCams he had in moss and ice, would have been #2 circleheads Luckily the next pitch was easy. I cruised up the finish of the gully then up a snow apron to the base of the final curtain and set a sheltered belay. Steve took a long time to lead pitch 3. I belayed, freezing and wondering "why the fuck is this taking so long and why is he placing so many screws on such easy looking ice?" Well when i followed i found out. The screws were mostly junk (placed in crust over hollowness), and the WI3 curtain was thin, hollow and sketchy . Exposure was also high here, both psychologically (long way down view) and physically (see below) to ice fall. I should mention here, a beatuful, rainbow-type Sundog appeared overhead while looking up this pitch. Very nice. At the top of the curtain, and below the final pillar, Steve had traversed left into the trees, instead of climb the finishing 10m pillar. When I got close to it I saw why. One of the worst, most skanky looking chunks of rotten ice I have ever seen. Huge cauliflowers, rotten and melting, blobbed on any which way to a 2" thick shield of ice with visible air and running water behind. The lip on top looked to involve rotten, crusted snow. All in all Steve seemed to have made the right call in not attempting it (not to mention he had run out of screws because we had expected alpine type climbing and only brought 8). When I reache Steve's belay we decided to rap. At this point we found out we only had 2 bail slings due to a misunderstanding, and both were short Abalakov type lengths. We tied the longer one around a little tree and rapped back down to the top of pitch 2. We Abalakoved again and rapped ending up at the end of the ropes and still 25-30m off the ground, with no slings. I built a screw anchor, Steve rapped down to the ground, grabbed some slings and sent them up on the rope. I then built a double Abalakov (the ice was bad enough I didn't trust single untested one), equalized it and rapped off. Getting this set up, actually took quite a lot of time, trying to find enough solid ice to drill 2 sets of 2 holes in. Well, we packed up and decided to head out. I dont think i mentioned yet, that i forgot my headlamp, and it was now 5:30 PM. on the bouns side of things the sunset on the west faces of the "skaeP redroB" was beautiful with pefect alpenglow. The hike out was also quite a slog. Involved lots of steep side hill type bushwacking. Once it got dark, having 2 people bushwack by the light of 1 tikka made for enjoyable route finding. eventually we could tell we had crossed back into Canada when we saw old stumps and realized we had swapped old growth for dense pack second growth and brush. I spent at least half of the last hour crawling on all 4s under and over snow covered logs mixed with alder and devils club. However, we were back at the car by 8 PM, so it only took 2.5 hours out vs 4-4.5 in Now did we climb a new route or not? Certainly no one had climbed this ice before. However, we did not climb the crux final 10m pillar due to conditions. So perhaps we only made an unsuccessful attempt -'If you dont do the crux you havent do the route ". Nonetheless we named our "route": CROSS BORDER SHOPPING WI3R 140m. Because 1) Serl already called a route with a similar approach "Illegal Entry" 2) We snuck in and pillaged some unclimbed American ice!!! If you want to know where exactly the Chestbeating, Gaper Secret Ice is, spell the place names backwards!!!! There is potential for at least a dozen routes in this area: most of the other routes on the NE facet looked like they would be at least WI5/ M7 ("hard" and scary looking to me ) , but the E face seems, seen from a distance to have snow couloirs and maybe some more moderate ice lines.

And you, sir, can't seem to find an appropriate place to adopt a clever quote. Not once did I imply that I compare to Peter Croft (although perhaps more favorably than you). You are such a dork. You answer Dwayner's assertion that bolting and sport climbing is ethically dubious by questioning his competence, as if to imply (as many people have) that those who oppose bolts are less than competent and, therefore, their opinions don't matter. I counter by saying that I oppose bolts and am fairly competent (while trying to be modest), and then you suggest that I think I am "better than somebody who clips bolts." Then you remind me that you know somebody who can climb better than I. Well, my dad can beat up your dad. Peter Croft has been very vocal about sport climbing, both verbally and by the statement made in his bold approach to climbing. Peter Croft bolts cracks in the Owens River gorge. That's not real rock. neither is smith or vantage!

And you, sir, can't seem to find an appropriate place to adopt a clever quote. Not once did I imply that I compare to Peter Croft (although perhaps more favorably than you). You are such a dork. You answer Dwayner's assertion that bolting and sport climbing is ethically dubious by questioning his competence, as if to imply (as many people have) that those who oppose bolts are less than competent and, therefore, their opinions don't matter. I counter by saying that I oppose bolts and am fairly competent (while trying to be modest), and then you suggest that I think I am "better than somebody who clips bolts." Then you remind me that you know somebody who can climb better than I. Well, my dad can beat up your dad. Peter Croft has been very vocal about sport climbing, both verbally and by the statement made in his bold approach to climbing. Peter Croft bolts cracks in the Owens River gorge.

from memory: caffeine in cup of coffee 30 mg tea 10-35 mg cola 25 mg hot choco 10mg decaf coffee ~5 mg There's a chart on the side of one of the Celestial Seasonings green tea boxes Tea, does not NECESSARILY have more caffeine than coffee. It depends on how long you let the teabag steep! If you only let it steep long enough, to give the brew a bit of color, then its at the low end, and significantly less than a cup of coffee. If you brew it strong enough you can't see the bottom of your teacup, then it'll be at the high end, perhaps even more than an equivalent amount of coffee. OOPS minx beat me to it and her table is probably more accurate!!!!

don't even need a hammer... scarface is A1 and the king-swing afterwards is rated fun++!!!

OHMYGOD special I'm glad you told me that! I HAD bolted the first couple pitches cause i didnt have any pins, just a drill! I'll nail my way up there and chop all the bolts now OK!