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Everything posted by Dru
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some people cry when no one responds to their thread Warhol said "All Publicity is good" or was it PT Barnum. You should be glad your TR has sparked such interest. I am already planning to see tickets to the Natural-Perkins "Did they Dog The Fuck out of it or was it easy or what" battlecage
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Lets not forget that grades change over time. Lotus Flower Tower was originally rated a VI. When freed, it was called "one of the world's few all-free Grade VI's". Now it is routinely called V.
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El Cap is a "high alpine face" and "remote" ???
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but fern, chestbeating requires numbers!!!
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Id say the situation I described, the routes should have the same grades. On the other hand, a 10 pitch 5.9, with a death bushwack approach, and requiring you to carry over bivi gear to descend, and with bad rock, I would suggest should get a slightly higher grade than either of the 2 given above. Here's my revised list of some well known routes with grades. The only way, in my opinion, to make sense of overrall grades, is to make a list of routes that everyone can agree on grades of and then categorize other routes by :harder than, easier than, more commiting than, less commiting than, etc. I: Mountaineers Dome; Classic Crack; any single pitch in the Smoke Bluffs; Mt. Challenger summit route II: West Ridge of Prussik; Diedre; R&D; Beckey route on Lib Bell III: W Face or NW corner of NEWS; Outer Space; Angels Crest; N ridge of Baker; S buttress of Cutthroat IV: N ridge of Clarke; SE buttress of Slesse; Backbone Ridge or Serpentine Arete; Liberty Ridge; Flying Buttress on Redoubt V: NE buttress or N rib of Slesse; Navigator Wall on Slesse; Direct E Buttress Slesse; Lib Crack; Ten Years After on the Chief; Andromeda Strain in the Rockies; Steinbok NE arete, either route; direct N buttress on Bear; Beckey-Chouinard in the Bugs VI: East Face of Slesse; The Diamond on Bear; North Norwegian Buttress on Index; North face of Alberta; Nose on El Cap; Bald Egos on the Chief; Beckey guides used to have Tables like this, comparing Rockies, N Cascades, Yosemite, Tetons etc.!!
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If you hike for a day to get into Cathedral, and climb the SE buttress as an easy day with 20 minute approach from your camp on the next day, and hike out on the 3rd day, does that 10 pitch 5.9, suddenly deserve a higher grade than a 10 pitch 5.9 in the Washington Pass area with a 20 minute approach from the car?
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HOLY SMOKE, A TAVERN
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MARS AND VENUS IN THE BOULDERING CAVE, and MARS AND VENUS IN A STINKY VE25 IN A WHITEOUT, are titles already available. Coming soon: CHICKENHEAD SOUP FOR THE SPORT CLIMBERS' SOLE
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OMG I just got PM'ed that they are planning to quarry the Sweet Granite in Renton! We better go down there now and form a Human Shield to prevent this valuable climbers resource from being Destroyed!!! King5 and Newstips can give us Valuable Tips on how to get the views of our Protest Movement Against Quarrying Renton Granite (PMAQRG for short!!) across forcefully in the media. I for one am prepared to solo in the nude Christian Griffiths style, when the cameras are turned my way.
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Use of Cordelettes in Equalized Anchor Systems
Dru replied to catbirdseat's topic in Climber's Board
except simulclimbing and not belaying at all -
I have explained THE ANSWERS YOU ARE SEEKING in my new book "Mars and Venus In The Haulbag" buy your copy today.
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Cascade Joe sounds like a new Coffee Shop. I bet BS'er is a spambot. All the cool hardmen wannabes will stop for Lattes at Cascade Joe before sieging Mountaineers Doom.
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hmmmm, 8 X 70 = 560m, but I bet all your pitches were not 70m? or were they?
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sissy summits is 21, 25 meter pitches (or 10 50m plus one short one) so thats 500m or 1500 ft. i guess it still reigns! 13 pitches, some short, vs. 11 pitches, most long....
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Hey sex choco or anyone else, how long is this route? I was wondering if it has dethroned Sisyphus Summits on Ha Ling for the title of "longest sport route outside Mexico".
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Alaska Grades do not convert to NCSS Overall grades. NCSS grades are not the same as Cdn Rockies Water Ice Commitment grades - generally speaking, to convert a WI commitment to an equivalent NCSS, subtract 1 to 2 numbers. For instance, Slipstream, VI 4+ as a water ice route, would be V WI4+ if rated as an Alpine route. The whole system is confusing,and that's why Euro alpine grades make more sense. Also, if you Do use NCSS its real important to use the Roman numerals. Otherwise, if you say Spindrift (eg.) is a "grade 5", do you mean its a a) V, WI4 b) IV, WI5 or c) V, WI5???? d) you probably don't mean it's a IV, WI4.
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was PW swapping like wife swapping or what? did JK notice his wife was "different" somehow or did allison manage to carry out muffy's "matrimonial duties" without adverse comment?
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running is bad for your legs and feet, especially on pavement i see a lot of older persons with wrecked feet from too much running on concrete and sidewalks you should do fartlek on dirt trails.
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if you run out of small nuts, you dont own enough of them, go buy more!!!!
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if only there was a viable non technical route out of tamihi creek basin to the american road network there would be a mule trail made by young men toting 80 liter backpacks full of the long green and then the approach would only take an hour.
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Do you think Greg Child will bear the child for her the way he wrote her "auto"biography?
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i'm still using the orange one, i only see the green one when i log on as an avatar.
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youre in luck necro, do a google image search for "hello Kitty Vibrators"
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back by popular demand!
