and the burning issue of how to name taped routes: route setter name, copy from a crag route, or something famous?
eg: i did "Chain Reaction" yesterday, that blue sloper route on the Metolius holds next to the kiddy slab
Taking the "Canmore waterfall" style of climbing fat alpine ice when the valleys are not in....
Shaun Neufeld and I drove to end of Jones Lake road and bushwacked by headlamp for 1.5 hrs to a flat gravel terrace in a huge debris flow fan where camp was made.
Up at 6:30 Am because we both slept thru Shauns wrist watch alarm going off at 5AM.
Spilled boiling water on my bivi sack testing out my new cartridge stove. Hot but tippy.
Left camp 8 AM, Slogged and scrambled uphill for 3 hours on cliff bands and old growth and devils club to base of left side of Knight Pk north face. It appears I am out of shape
Soloed 120m of WI2 and then climbed a couple of pitches of WI 3 and some more WI2 above. Turned around about 75m of WI2 from the top of the ice flow (seeps out of a blank wall) after a warming trend produced some spectacular rock/ice fall.
Rapped and downsclimbed devils club and moss in the forest then slogged out. Back at the car 5:30 PM.
There are easily 25 multipitch waterfalls in this same 3km area from Stewart to Cheam with potential grades from WI2 to WI6 - however - due to warming many of them are falling down as we speak
There is not enough snow for good alpine climbing continuations from the top of the ice to the summits yet...but there is no cornice fall to worry about either.
We called our new route "Once in A Red Moon" 250m+ WI3.
B52 requires 3 locking biners to belay two second with, not 2. So it actually weighs effectively ~80 grams more than the Reverso when you factor in the extra biner.
On Lefebvre Road in Langley. 20 foot high erratic boulder, probs to V6, 5.8 to 5.10 top rope, aRmy rappellers once in a while its all of like 10 minutes from you. i think its like lefebvre and 12th? near aldergrove cdn forces area anyway.