Dru

When in doubt, don't

fireday?

What I get from Blakej's question is that he is planning ahead of time to self belay on a 4th class route. Not a "what if this is too hard for me and I need to self belay" but "This is going to be something I need to self belay on". A rope and equipment to safely self belay is not necessarily something you would take "just in case" anyways due to the weight. Rock shoes as a "just in case", maybe.

He did do Just Do It and said "Who said this is only 14b?"

What's that game show where they can call out to a friend or ask an expert if they get in trouble?

Does anyone really think the ethnically persecuted in Darfur would be better off if, say, the USA had invaded Sudan already instead of the world trying this UN approach? Look how well you guys did providing huimanitarian aid in Somalia!

Matt and others - it's like this - you think "hey I will go solo this 4th class ridge". If you get scared on the ridge, to the point where you whip out the self belay system: you made a mistake! You should have 1) come with a partner or 2) chosen an easier destionation for the day. The question Blakej posted is no different than someone posting saying "Hey. I'm gonna go freesolo the Squamish Buttress, but I can't freesolo 10c so I'm going to rope-solo the crux pitch. How do I do it?" - same answer - if you don't think you can do it you shouldn't be planning how you are going to aid through it somehow. You should be planning on soloing something more within your ability.

I want an anti gravity machine. Get to work Perfessor!

The fact still remains that Yuji onsights French 14b sporto routes but can't onsight ANY of the 5.13 trad routes on El Cap. So which is harder

banned users don't show up in the USER LIST and there he is sitting at #3 spot

Nothin' like confirming yourself as a l0zer on multiple boards by attacking the accomplishments of not one, but several climbers and skiiers better than you

photo turned upside down too.

But if you bring a tap you ARE allowed to pump your own beer at Grasslands anyway

Mattp: class 4 climbing is generally considered to be climbable without using pro. A climber considering using pro, and or a self belay, on class 4 climbs should consider dropping the commitment level instead. Why? Because they aren't confident in climbing at the necessary level. The question was not "How should I self belay on 5.12" or "Significant climbs I have done without a rope". Please stay on topic.

You can even see Judge Howay and Robie Reid from Bellingham if you know where to look.

the lightest alpine rack I've ever carried was my ballz

Hey y'all - it's just Class 4. If you feel the need to protect yourself perhaps you should have chosen a 3rd class route instead.

Sheep: ribbed for your pleasure.

I heard Lancegranite married a svelte Sasquatch

Well, Dru, I'm looking at it this way... It's a multipitch area, with an average of say... 3 to 5 pitches per climb. Let's go low and say it's 3 pitches for every climb we do. I'll probably get in 4 or 5 climbs a day, cuz I'm fat and I'm taking a buddy who's never done multis before. So on the low end, that's around 12 rap stations per day if all goes according to plan. We'll be there for about 4 or 5 days. Let's say we get bored after 4 days. That makes for somewhere around 50 rap stations to be replaced while we're there. With two rap rings (redundancy) per station, that's around 100 rings. At your estimated prices, there's a differential of about $0.75CAN/ring. So that's 100 rings * $0.75CAN/ring * ~$0.70US/$1.00CAN = $50US potential price difference. To me, that is some serious coin of my own that I'll be dropping. As I said above, "Weight won't be an issue. Money is." Thanks for your comment, though. 4 3 pitch routes a day? At this time of year? Are you fast and slumming, or slow and optimistic? Anyways I like it when people use double rings or quicklinks. It means I can booty a quicklink on every rap! Have you considered that in these low-traffic areas you are visiting, probably quite a lot of the anchors won't need replacing? Or the webbing will need it but not the rings? But go ahead, buy 50 quicklinks. Or even 150 single chain links. Dont let me stop you.

One day "I thought it was a chicken neck" will be remembered fondly along with "No, it's just ice cream" as non sequiters of distinction.

you "think"? he's a useless chestbeater that can't spell or punctuate properly.

Rockcentrics. Regular hexes are 1970's tech even on wire.

But isn't the money diff between a rap ring ($2 CDN at MEC) and a non-stainless quick link (about $1.25 CDN at hardware store) kind of small potatoes unless you are retrofitting a whole crags worth of hundreds of rap stations?