goatboy

Ahh, this reminds me of a scene from a Few Good Men: Jessup: We follow orders, we follow orders or people die, it's that simple. Are we clear? Kaffee: Yes, Sir. Jessup: Are we clear! Kaffee: Crystal. Esteban, I too am now clear.

Not sure I entirely get this -- approaching Phantom would entail coming in via Big Beaver or Whatcom Pass, but neither requires starting on the Canadian side....what am I missing here?

From where the climber is pictured, you go just up and right to the obvious notch by the tower on the right side. Easy from there. A strenuous, steep pitch of sustained 5.9, with a thin rightward traverse at the top....I remember gasping for air, carrying a pack full of boots, ax, crampons, water....but it's an exhilarating pitch! And you know that the hard part is over at this point....until the rappels down the bowling alley gully!

Maybe so, but not w/r/t grammar. What you mean to say is that "knowledge and intelligence are all relative." nitpicking typos is poor netiquette. I type 60 wpm, and rarely proof-read these frivolous postings, so spelling and grammar errors are inevitable (and not worth fixing). Now go lick sack. Oh, I understand much better now. Thanks for the lesson about etiquette and nitpicking. I can learn a lot from a guy like you I see Why don't you try typing 59 words per minute and think about maybe 1 of them, just as an experiment?

I thought the Boston Basin one was good until I saw this one...

Maybe so, but not w/r/t grammar. What you mean to say is that "knowledge and intelligence are all relative."

Two options: North on I-5 to Hwy 20, east on 20 (this way is simple but I think a little longer). Kangaroo Ridge is just east of Washington Pass, but long before you get to Mazama. There is a hairpin turn on hwy 20 just past WA Pass -- park there. Go up. OR North on I-5 to Darrington turnoff, through Darrington and on up to Hwy 20, then East on 20 to hairpin turn. Probably takes about 3 hours or so from Seattle to there...

yes -- and the fact that Shawn Kemp kicked ass at one point!!!

Wonder how much faster you'd be if you weren't taking all these damn pictures? I have never been a "speed climber" by any definition, but it must be exhilarating to move so fast and get so far in a day.... Do you also enjoy "non speed" climbs???

There is an appreciable difference between the megamid (single pole, pyramid shape) and the betamid (circus tent, two trekking poles, lower profile) in terms of wind resistance. The MEGAmid is like a great sail in the wind. The betamid is much better in general for wind and storm resistance. The best thing I have found in this family of tents, especially for mid-summer application, is the beta-bug, which is a bug net that sets up inside the betamid, or as a stand-alone shelter (which is what I tend to use it for). Awesome for those east side July evenings when the mosquitos stack up on the walls of the tent like vampires....

I know that Jo'berg has been climbed many times in a day....but I also know that according to NPS, more people go overdue on that peak than any other which they track, by a full day or more.... so that may be a separate thread, peaks which frequently lead to overdue parties....

A camelbak full of your own urine is aid.

Nice work! Did you eat any deep fried pickles afterwards?

I have a friend who climbed Goode NE Buttress car-to-car in summer (no skis or snowmobiles involved!) - but it did take them a little over 24 hours. Still, great accomplishment!

If playing ball is what matters most to him, then he should be allowed to do so....after agreeing to give 80% of his income to animal shelters. If getting rich and living the NBA lifestyle is what he cares about, then he should not be allowed to return.

I tried to search for the exit 38 thread but couldn't easily find it -- anyone care to post a link to that one in the name of resurrection? Thanks....

Good lord. Fabulous photos and amazing accomplishments in a concentrated amount of time. Nice! And congrats on the engagement.

Snafflehound Ledge! Cascadian Couloir Thumb Rock

The Flagpole, "visited by more birds than climbers," is a pretty cool feature. The Bearhug pitch on SEWS SW Buttress.... The Cannon Hole near Dome Peak... The Red Ledge... The BIG SNAGTOOTH!!!!

I think June is perfect for the sort of two-day trip you're describing. Snowy gullies and no bugs! Hike in and climb East Ridge one day, sleep, and climb S Ridge before heading out....

Nice photos. The routes are both good, but very different in character. S Ridge -- super easy, fun, but kinda too short for the longish hike in. East Ridge -- feels more alpine, scrambly, a few harder sections. Best in early season when the approach gully is snow rather than steep kitty litter and bombs for those below. Rapping the S Ridge is the best way off unless it's choked with a billion people or large, institutional groups (as happened to me once)...

Thread resurrection with a new twist -- vw van instead of truck. I have a VW Van that needs some love. These things are notorious for being difficult to diagnose, and expensive to fix. Has anyone had any good experiences with VW mechanics in the area, or are they all equally disheartening? Thanks very much for any help with this. BTW, I know that the best mechanic is the one having the most fun...

I appreciate the thought and experience that went into your post. Thanks for the perspective.

Wow, great photos -- looks great. That party of 6 thing for sentinel pass is now a party of 12 rule, I heard??? Thanks for the ideas.