goatboy

I know that there was a double fatality due to avalanche on the N Face of Dragontail, though I don't remember if it was on the Triple Couloirs or a neighboring route. In general, given the hundreds (thousands?) of ascents over the past 40 years, 6 doesn't seem like that many. At least, not in a way that would keep me from wanting to climb it (which I have, by 3 different routes).

How did you end up with Twight's tools again?

In response to original question: Your second photo (with the red arrow pointing to the tail loop) would be fine with me if you just clip the tail into the same carabiner as the Master Point. It's redundant, strong, clean, and simple.

I know it as a double-bight figure eight. Sounds like there's not a lot of consensus on this one. Wonder what AMGA calls it?

FOUND! THANKS.

Perhaps I could summarize the tangent on which this thread has somehow gone: 1) JosephH has done a lot of hip belaying and he likes it. He states that if its done properly, there are no limitations to its effectiveness. 2) Other folks are less comfortable or experienced with this technique, and prefer to use a belay device with which they are more comfortable, and which is now currently more of a standard in the practice of climbing. 3) JosephH wishes people wouldn't state that hip belaying has its limitations. He feels compelled to point out that they have limitations as climbers, rather than the technique having limitations. People can't learn the merits of hip belaying in only a few hours or days. 4) JosephH can in fact evaluate the merits of Joshua Tree in only a few hours, and decide that it's boring. 5) JosephH can also evaluate the merits of other climbers on this board based on a few comments in the "Newbies" forum, and decide that they're incompetent. Did I miss anything?

Thanks for the TR and conditions report. The ledge is completely melted out, so different from last time I saw it (July conditions 2008)

Left my lovely new Smith sunglasses hanging in a tree near the base of "Mushmaker" (5.7) at the Royal Columns. I was distracted by a FAT rattler that came sauntering by and failed to go back to retrieve my shades. Hiked out in the dusk and never missed them.... til driving home the next day. If anyone finds them, I will gladly accept their return and compensate you with beer or pay for shipping, whatever. Many thanks. Maybe PM me if you have them?

Nice work, Matt!

That roof to the handcrack is one of the best, and most unique, pitches at WA PASS. Did you find some of the middle pitches (maybe pitches 2-3) to be really manky and gross?

How do I insert an image from a Mac? With my PC, I could right click on the image and then paste that info into the image pop-up box, but not so with my new Mac ... any suggestions? The URL is http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=50107&ppuser=295 and a better one is here: http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=50108&cat=500&ppuser=295

I don't quite get where this is located. Blake, you mention "Goat Pass, near the start of the West Ridge" but actually, Goat Pass is at the north side of the small rock glacier cirque, and the West Ridge is the continuation of the ridge with STUART Pass... is this route the wall above the rock glacier? As in, the NW Face of the West Ridge? Hmmm... thanks for clarifying when you can... let me see if I can find a picture around here of that wall, too... EDIT: After reading the rest of the thread, I see that this is in fact the wall above the rock glacier. Still looking for a photo of the wall...

Great pics of NEWS.

Hey J Park, Thanks for the trip report and photos and nice work on the route. No offense intended -- I realize my post may have been presumptuous. I certainly do not know you or your partner. Your post did IMPLY to me that you were disappointed in the route, however (lines such as "You've been warned" is one example). If I misinterpreted that, again, apologies to you. Meanwhile, I do stand by my comment that if parties go into this area with high expectations, they may be disappointed (as opposed to going into it knowing that its a long approach for what may be wet or otherwise less-than-classic climbing). That's what I really meant to express, not to cast judgment on YOUR experience. I have personally NOT been into Marble Creek but would like to go sometime despite the mixed reviews. Thanks again for posting conditions and your TR. Regards, Goatboy

To be fair to Nelson's description, he does not recommend that you climb this route from the campsite you chose. He suggests camping closer to the route. This sounds like a case of going in with high expectations and being disappointed rather than going in open-minded and appreciating the route for what it is. I have heard that it does dry up in late Aug/Sept but on the other hand this was a very hot, dry summer so I am surprised that the wetness persists on the hard pitches. Too bad. I'm sure that impacted your party's enjoyment of the route.

Out of curiosity, what are the Mtneer's 18 Cascade Classics?

Here's a look at what I believe to be the W Ridge as seen from Red Mountain Saddle yesterday: [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/DSC_00011.JPG[/img]

Is this a top-rope anchor (relatively low, predictable forces in a known direction of pull) or a multi-pitch anchor (potentially high forces (could be factor 2), less predictable direction of pull (could be up or down, or lateral)? In general, tying a knot in a sling (especially one as relatively weak as dyneema) weakens it appreciably (up to 50%). So, consider the first question (TR or Multi-pitch) and the corresponding implications for force when deciding whether weakening your attachment point is warranted. The options Rad mentions for shortening the sling in a more functional way are usually better choices than knotting the sling. Another option I've seen is TWISTING the sling (i.e. turning it without knotting it) to shorten it, but I have not seen definitive tests about the effect this has on its overall strength (though intuitively it's a stronger method than knotting the sling).

Compare this to some shots from Mid-July of this year: Amazingly quick meltout. That dry heat spell really wreaked some havoc up there. [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/Fisher_Chimneys_035.jpg[/img] [img:left]http://cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/medium/Fisher_Chimneys_040.jpg[/img]

I got tickets to some hockey games. I am looking forward to it!

Why is this in Spray?

You don't have to guess. The pictures in the link show it pretty clearly. It's bleak right now.

That side of the BS Col (climber's right) gets pelted by rockfall of parties coming off the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. When I was up there, I saw a fellow get trapped up there by a piano-sized block shifting onto his foot, crushing it while simultaneously pinning him in a standing position for several hours until helicopters arrived with car jacks to extricate him. It was a heck of a rescue. They flew him out, but not his stuff, so his partner was hiking out the next day with his pack, and his partner's pack somehow teetering ON TOP of his own in a wild display of imbalance and suffering.

I think it's a fine route if you go into it expecting: 1) A fairly long day overall 2) Some great pitches for the first 1/3 of the day 3) Lots of easy simulclimbing on rock of varying quality Shortening your rope (i.e. 100 feet or perhaps less) for the upper sections diminished rope drag and improves communication greatly for the upper section. Beware of rope-inflicted rockfall as the rope drags across stacked blocks and loose flakes on the low angle ledges. As for the descent: It's an easy walkoff in good conditions. When it's icy (later season, like probably now) some parties rappel down to the lower snowfield rather than carry ax and crampons up the route. I found the hardest part of this route to be getting on the rock from the ever-retreating Colchuck Glacier. We had to climb some steep glacier-polished rock which was a little wet and cross by the waterfall to gain the dark black rock leading up to the tower and the great pitches. Overall, I recommend the route as a good one if you know what you're in for and get an early start. It's a "light" grade IV, considering that Backbone (much harder and more technical, 5th class sections) is also called a grade IV.

"Der Teufel ist gefallen" - F. Beckey