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chucK

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Everything posted by chucK

  1. No. Officially you have to pay to park in the lot. I have noticed a lot of people park out in the nearby neighborhoods and hoof it over there, because they don't want to have to worry about getting a ticket. Today they won't have to.
  2. chucK

    Born to win

    I love how this headline battle is going on. Headlines: "9/11 commission says no ties between Iraq and Al Qaeda". Of course, Bushco can't let that go so responds next day with absolutely no justification (besides arguing semantics), "Bushco says "Yes there was!!" ". It'll do it's job for the large percentage of people who get no further than the headline.
  3. Is Crackbolter's on Stuart? And I'm guessing Gnibmilc's is Burgundy Spire, but my recollection of that spot would have the photo reversed also.
  4. Just a heads-up that parking enforcement are taking classes or some such today, so campus-wide no enforcement, AKA free parking. Might be a good day to take your lunch break at The Rock!
  5. Grand Wall could be 10c A0
  6. chucK

    spray blows

    Y'know, I was just thinking this very same thing today. I was walking out to the bus this morning, and I come across this big fresh pile of dogshit. And that's sort of unusual nowadays with all those hapless dogowners walking around with the little plastic bag flags flying from their pockets to announce that their dog is not gonna leave it's shit in your neighborhood. Well anyway, I'm looking at this big pile of fresh stinky shit, and I think, "Spray blows!"
  7. chucK

    Blood etiquette

    This thread is the best You should just tape up for all your bolted crack sport climbs.
  8. Lightning Crack?
  9. chucK

    rc.com is lame

  10. Yep! and Yep! I got my grades from the white guide (9), the next one (10a), and Eric Hirst's Leavenworth Mini-Guide! (9++ weird). So what's Urban Nomads in the new book? 10d?
  11. Sheesh, doesn't anybody here besides PMS climb? Here's one that's close by. A favorite of AlpineK.
  12. Nope. In the Icicle.
  13. Nope. Only 5.9+ Oops, possibly misleading clue. 9 in one version, 10a in another, not sure about the rest
  14. chucK

    "minor correction"

    steroid use by baseball players
  15. !! Yeah, I was laughing too! Isn't that good news! Hold the propag... errr presses! "The State Department acknowledged Thursday it was wrong in reporting terrorism declined worldwide last year, a finding used to boost one of President Bush's chief foreign policy claims -- success in countering terror. Instead, both the number of incidents and the toll in victims increased sharply, the department said." Here's a more opinionated version of the latest news (Salon, need to watch movie to get in, but if you already did for my other recent link, here you go!). "the analysts who compiled the data on "significant terrorist events" had closed their books for 2003 on a curious date. Instead of including every incident up till Dec. 31, they had included none that occurred after Nov. 11." Doh! One more interesting tidbit. Memo from the Congressional Research Service tabulating the number of Al Qaeda attacks 30 months before and 30 months after 9/11 (4 versus 10, respectively).
  16. chucK

    Required Reading

    Here's a good article on Salon.com (you gotta look at commercial first to gain access).
  17. Gotta love that chalk!
  18. No you're not. He clears the 1 pearl, then it's 5-4-0 YM 4-4-0 He's lost If you were correct, then you could win by starting out clearing the 3 row.
  19. I might head to Smith Rock this weekend.
  20. Should guidebooks be banned? Surely guidebooks are at least as responsible as the existence of bolts for the number of climbers visiting overused crags. They certainly make the climbing easier (i.e. "dumb it down"). The elimination of guidebooks would probably help mitigate the effect of climbers at Eldo, The Gunks, The Valley, RMNP, Indian Creek, J-Tree, Washington Pass, Index, Squamish. More?
  21. I was letting my kid (4 year old) climb in a tree that was sideways. It had fallen down. Perfect rungs. His feet were about 4 feet above the ground. A branch broke and he fell, headfirst onto a concrete driveway. Fractured skull, bleeding in the brain. He almost died. You high and mighty smart guys seem pretty dumb sometimes.
  22. Why don't you out those guys in the "other" state too? Could it be because it is closer to where you live and you'd rather only stir up trouble for climbers in Washington?
  23. Cause every time they bring it up you knuckleheads just fall in line and defend Clinton and forget that the discussion was about Bush.
  24. From: http://www.nytimes.com/2004/06/09/politics/09TTEX.html JANUARY 2002 A series of memorandums from the Justice Department, many of them written by John C. Yoo, a University of California law professor who was serving in the department, provided arguments to keep United States officials from being charged with war crimes for the way prisoners were detained and interrogated. The memorandums, principally one written on Jan. 9, provided legal arguments to support administration officials' assertions that the Geneva Conventions did not apply to detainees from the war in Afghanistan. JAN. 25 Alberto R. Gonzales, the White House counsel, in a memorandum to President Bush, said that the Justice Department's advice in the Jan. 9 memorandum was sound and that Mr. Bush should declare the Taliban and Al Qaeda outside the coverage of the Geneva Conventions. That would keep American officials from being exposed to the federal War Crimes Act, a 1996 law that carries the death penalty. JAN. 26 In a memorandum to the White House, Secretary of State Colin L. Powell said the advantages of applying the Geneva Conventions far outweighed their rejection. He said that declaring the conventions inapplicable would "reverse over a century of U.S. policy and practice in supporting the Geneva Conventions and undermine the protections of the laws of war for our troops." He also said it would "undermine public support among critical allies." FEB. 2 A memorandum from William H. Taft IV, the State Department's legal adviser, to Mr. Gonzales warned that the broad rejection of the Geneva Conventions posed several problems. "A decision that the conventions do not apply to the conflict in Afghanistan in which our armed forces are engaged deprives our troops there of any claim to the protection of the conventions in the event they are captured." An attachment to this memorandum, written by a State Department lawyer, showed that most of the administration's senior lawyers agreed that the Geneva Conventions were inapplicable. The attachment noted that C.I.A. lawyers asked for an explicit understanding that the administration's public pledge to abide by the spirit of the conventions did not apply to its operatives. AUGUST A memorandum from the Office of Legal Counsel in the Justice Department provided a rationale for using torture to extract information from Qaeda operatives. It provided complex definitions of torture that seemed devised to allow interrogators to evade being charged with that offense. MARCH 2003 A memorandum prepared by a Defense Department legal task force drew on the January and August memorandums to declare that President Bush was not bound by either an international treaty prohibiting torture or by a federal anti-torture law because he had the authority as commander in chief to approve any technique needed to protect the nation's security. The memorandum also said that executive branch officials, including those in the military, could be immune from domestic and international prohibitions against torture for a variety of reasons, including a belief by interrogators that they were acting on orders from superiors "except where the conduct goes so far as to be patently unlawful.' APRIL A memorandum from Secretary of Defense Donald H. Rumsfeld to Gen. James T. Hill outlined 24 permitted interrogation techniques, 4 of which were considered stressful enough to require Mr. Rumsfeld's explicit approval. Defense Department officials say it did not refer to the legal analysis of the month before. DEC. 24 A letter to the International Committee of the Red Cross over the signature of Brig. Gen. Janis Karpinski was prepared by military lawyers. The letter, a response to the Red Cross's concern about conditions at Abu Ghraib, contended that isolating some inmates at the prison for interrogation because of their significant intelligence value was a "military necessity," and said prisoners held as security risks could legally be treated differently from prisoners of war or ordinary criminals. OTHER MEMORANDUMS Some have been described in reports in The Times and elsewhere, but their exact contents have not been disclosed. These include a memorandum that provided advice to interrogators to shield them from liability from the Convention Against Torture, an international treaty and the Anti-Torture Act, a federal law. This memorandum provided what has been described as a script in which officials were advised that they could avoid responsibility if they were able to plausibly contend that the prisoner was in the custody of another government and that the United States officials were just getting the information from the other country's interrogation. The memorandum advised that for this to work, the United States officials must be able to contend that the prisoner was always in the other country's custody and had not been transferred there. International law prohibits the "rendition" of prisoners to countries if the possibility of mistreatment can be anticipated. NEIL A. LEWIS
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