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Thanks for working on the trails Dave The first mystery mountain is Little Big Chief.

Wow! Seriously fast there! You must not have stopped to chat too long with any of those guys. Nice job

Way to go Otto! Thanks for the report.

Won't argue with you there, but just to belabor my point, I'd also add "entertaining".

Most of the time, extremely unpretentious people are not very exciting to watch. This is a show here damnit! Stop trying to impose your manners constraints on us, you bunch of whiny wannabee wankers. Ever go see some of those punk bands who derided the rock-star guitar heroes? The thoroughly unpretentious, stare at their shoe guys (Royal Trux guitarist was so shy he'd always have his back to the audience)? Cool music a lot of time but the shows? Pretentious people can make for some damn fun reading. Unless of course it makes you upset cause you think you're better than them. I'd suggest not calling 'em pretentious ('cause that's actually quite pretentious, you wanker!), just call 'em lame, if that's how you see it. Maybe that'll make you feel better.

I've never worried about this problem because I've always found it pretty easy to outsmart five year olds (packs of 'em are even easier to confuse). But for you guys I guess it might be a different story.

Dark Rhythym is a "pretty good" route in terms of climbing. Basically 8 pitches, 1 of which is extremely good, 4 are are pretty good, and 3 get you where you're going. You can skip the last two ho-hum one's and rap if you don't particularly care about getting to the summit of Exfoliation Dome. The approach is a bit more work than 3 O'Clock Rock, but it's also pretty fun. Padding up a big long slab. At the end of the day, in the sun, though it can be quite tedious. Rain Man is a more interesting than Dark Rhythym, and a bit more difficult. I think DR has a more difficult crux, but Rain Man has more sustained difficulties. It's got cracks, roofs, corners and of course, slabs. RM has 3 "very good" pitches sandwhiched by two ho-hums. Rain Man is good to do second route of the day (i.e. after you are well warmed up) as it has a totally bogus tendon-trasher move right off the ground, on a pitch that has no other difficulties (or avoid that pitch with the 5.5 alt, which I've never tried). If you've been to the summit already rap from the junction of DR and RM. Jacob's Ladder is good too, but more difficult to find. Check it out. One good way to get to Jacob's Ladder is to climb one of the above routes to Blueberry Terrace, then find the rap stations for JL and rap on in. Stations are at the far N end of the terrace. Make sure you really know what you're doing with this approach though. Sounds like a good way to epic/get killed for someone without a good amount of experience.

I think someone oughta carry a whole bunch of those "NW forest pass required at trailhead" signs up on top of mailbox peak.

I find summit registers to be an unvaluable source of historical weather data.

Bring a damn quicklink to leave on the fixed cam and do everybody a favor.

scritch scratch scritch

Just because he stole your thread with a way more interesting post, there's no reason to get all pissy Josh!

Some climbs I recommend. Many are in the "9 and under" range, or have initial pitches that are in that range.

Excellent Klenke old boy! Pip pip cheerio and all that wot! where's the damn photos?

Yeah shit! How could I forget? That was quite a scandal!

Anybody here know any beta besides the Beckey paragraph? "Hard class 5" from 1956 seems like it could be anywhere from like 5.8 to 5.10, or other. I thought the rock up there was pretty nice. Swirly, featured, some jagged heucos, pretty solid .

You catch William Jefferson's speech last night? Hilarious! "For the first time ever when America was on a war footing, there were two huge tax cuts, nearly half of which went to the top one percent. I'm in that group now for the first time in my life. When I was in office, the Republicans were pretty mean to me. When I left and made money, I became part of the most important group in the world to them." All the references to the Republicans helping him out were great! Guy looks freakin' younger than me! When he was president I always thought he was doing a better job when he was freshly shorn. Seems like Bush never has a problem with taking time out of his busy schedule to get his hair cut.

Here's some pictures. On this trip I learned that you don't need boiling water for cup o' noodles! somewhere up near the bivy Lower Curtis(?) glacier out above the chimneys for Distel On the SE Ridge (nice rock, fun!) Nooksak? On the hike out

Nice Job man! Did you downclimb that one chossy section on the Roosevelt Kaleetan traverse that gets you to the low point? As a point of order, if I'm picturing it correctly, I don't think you climbed Bryant (Bryant is to the South of that big talus gully), but sounds like you climbed something cooler.

Don't any of you people have a job that you could just go to lunch on Friday and not come back 'til Monday? East Buttress Big Snow Mountain

Need a partner. You volunteering?

Hey! Anyone want to go climb something Fri-Sat? I can leave town not 'til around 12:30pm Friday. Ideas for this time frame: Big Snow Mtn. (prefer 5.10 route) Bears Breast Complete N Ridge Stuart with light light bivy ('cause it's gonna be really warm?) Others? Shuksan? Send me a PM

Yes it is. If we made it easier for everyone there would be a fucking wheelchair ramp on el cap by now. Climb the mountain on the mountain's terms; not yours. If you don't have the skills stay in the gym. Some excellent sound bites there. Too bad they don't apply very well to the world of your average climber. Every route you've ever climbed that has had a bolt (or two!) installed, or has had moss scrubbed off, or has had a trail beaten to the base. has been made easier for you. Most stuff commonly climbed out there fits somewhere in between unblemished mountain and wheelchair ramp. This hyperbolic posturing is wearisome

In August, what is left of that snowfield may be rockhard all day long. You can avoid the snow completely by crossing over the ridge below the false summit at a level below the snow field. You may need to rap into the Cascadian Couloir, or you might be able to downclimb. Depends on your comfort level. There is a big slab with a rock horn in the middle with a bunch of rap slings on it there.

But Dru, you didn't do the Beckey Route. We are talking about the Beckey Route here. Not some rap route.