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I think Hezbolla should be condemned for the blatantly provocative act of indiscrimately firing missles into a population center and starting the chain of events that is turning out to be very fucked. There, can you stop saying that Israel is being singled out for condemnation now?

10-15 fahrenheit or celsius?

I didn't follow the sequence of events closely due to being in Stehekin (no TV, internet, etc.) at the time, but aren't you leaving out the part about Hezbollah firing a bunch of rockets into Haifa? That seems like a significant escalation compared to previous clashes, that Israel just about must do something about, don't you think?

Seems like a lot more walking then necessary to get on the route. Besides descending the Cascadian sucks as does hiking UP to Long's pass after at the end of a full day. Easier to just carry a few more ounces and take some l/w poons. I punched the various routes into the TOPO! software program and was surprised at the results. Teanaway (Ingalls Pass -> Goat Pass -> CC couloir -> Long's Pass): mileage (including ups and downs): 12.5 miles total altitude gain: 8775' Mountaineer Creek routes: Sherpa: mileage: 13.0 miles total altitude gain: 6450' NW Buttress: mileage: 13.2 miles total altitude gain: 6450' Numbers are slightly rounded and are approximate since I didn't work very hard at tracing a totally accurate route. I was amazed that the Teanaway Route actually has less mileage than the Mountaineer Creek possibilities. Big difference in total amount of uphill slogging you have to do due to all the ups and downs of the Teanaway route. Much less technical/semi technical ground to negotiate on Teanaway route. So it's a tradeoff between more technical ground versus more altitude gain/loss. The total mileage's are pretty comparable. One other note is the driving distances. From Seattle it takes about the same amount of time to get to Teanaway TH as to Leavenworth, so figure the driving time from Leavenworth to Mountaineer Creek TH to be another "cost" of the Mountaineer Creek versions (if you're coming from or through Seattle, that is). As far as in-person, experience I have only done the Teanaway version (many times for West Ridge, once for complete N Ridge). I think the complaints about the CC couloir descent and the Long's Pass grind are totally overblown. You can't get a lower impact descent than the sandy plungestepping of the CC couloir (even nicer with snowcover early season), and the Long's Pass uphill is nothing compared to what you've already done. It's psychologically daunting, but if you just put your head down and go, it's over before you know it. I love this thread...each and every time it comes up

The complete doesn't require poons

SCHA-WINGGGGGGGGGGG!

You're such an ass, but I'm certainly happy to derail your stupid thread. Never said I haven't ever failed, just that I think people who whine about being fooled by topos should call someone who cares.

I didn't get too far into the post to comment on the main issue, but I did notice early on the line IMO this immediately places doubt as to the credibility of the poster. 95% of the time I have found that people attributing their failure about being misled by the topo, the guidebook, a post on the internet, etc... are merely excuse-spouting f*ckups.

Jeff Hansel and I climbed this to the top yesterday. Some comments: As others have said, the first six pitches are a good crag route. I'll even go so far to say that they make an EXCELLENT crag route. p's 1-3 and p5 are really cool. P's 1 and 5 are excellent crack climbing and p-s 2-3 are improbably steep face climbing on pebbles and huecos. After p-6 it changes into more of a Klenke-type climb. Easier rock but with bushwhacking and route-finding the main challenges. It's sorta like climbing Outer Space then from the top of that heading up the North Ridge of Mt. Index . A couple notes on the "pitch 7" route description above. The "chimney notch" looks pretty daunting from below (climbing up under a dirt cornice) but turns out to be pretty easy. With respect to the cave, find it by skirting along the headwall to the right until you find the hole. It was a pretty tight squeeze and I'm pretty skinny. There is at least one way around it. The "delightful" vegetated gully was pretty hairball at one spot, steep exposed dirt with only blueberry bushes for handholds. Quite unnerving in rock shoes! We stayed right where it was initially less steep, but we soon ran out of options. It may be better staying left where, though steeper, there are more dependable handholds in the form of small trees. The scary stuff only lasted about 50 feet, then it's just steep hiking though bush. Once it's looking like your vegetated gulley is turning into a vegetated ledge (with the chasm on the right) look for the weakness on the left wall. That is the "pitch 8" in the description. The approach to the base through the bushes is pretty damn bushy bush right now. I might suggest traversing low in a talus field until you can look straight up the approach gully to minimize your bush thrash. It took us a fairly long day. Trailhead ~9am, top 4:30 pm, Sparks stashed in snow ~9pm. Getting down the upper section was probably more difficult than ascending it. This is definitely one of those climbs where you are only halfway there when you top out. Between this and the fact that you would NOT want to fall on that pebble-studded rock, this is a fairly serious climb. The 10a crux section is relatively short and has a bolt at your waist, but otherwise there are some runs between the bolts on the face pitches. Highly recommended!!!

BD #11 wired Hexcentric 206 g

So would the Tooth be a 10$ or 12$ job?

Wow! Looks like fun. Nice job.

You got some other reasonable advice, but I'm not sure if anyone answered your explicit questions. As far as staying on route, it gets very confusing once you're up in that stuff. Scope it out well from a distance and try to burn it into your memory. Pick out landmarks that you will be able to recognize when they are up close and towering above you. Also, a very handy routefinding tip is don't head out over anything that is very licheny. The West Ridge is quite popular: lichen = off route! As far as protection. Stuart is a pro-placing dream. Clean cracks of all size abound. No worries. Med-large nuts would probably suffice, but add in some cams yellow TCU - yellow Camalot, and you'll have a good rack.

In the US or in Iraq? In either case probably significantly lower than Al-Maliki's!

ummmmm .... what's intersting about it?

If you are using Firefox, you can just right click on the image and choose "Copy Image Location", then you just paste into the http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/upload/images/1236.jpg' alt='1236.jpg'>

Bring a lightweight bag like these guys said. Supplement with a bivy sack or tent that will keep off the possible rain (so you don't die), and keep out the mosquitos. Chances are you'll use the sleeping bag only for a blanket, but the combination of the two (bag with sack or tent) will be warm enough should it get REALLY cold (i.e. 20F for around here). If the weather is looking nice, a lot of people save the weight bring just the sack and plan for minor suffering. But that's not for me when a 35F bag weighs only a pound nowadays. Oh and regarding the bug head net, don't go cheap. You'll suffer without the "Reinforced smoking/straw hole" feature. this guy is obviously jonesing for a smoke

Sport Climbing is a variation of the overall sport of climbing where protecting the leader is not really considered part of the game. All requirements for protection are artificially added (pre-placed bolts usually) to basically remove this consideration and to allow the climber to focus almost exclusively on the physical part of pulling one's body up the pitch. Trad climbing considers the action of protecting oneself from the consequences of a possible fall to be an important aspect of the game. People who establish "traditional" climbs usually attempt to minimize the amount of permanently placed protection, leaving that part of the game up to the climber.

Out JayB's way

You could probably do the West Ridge of Prussik, but with 20 miles of hiking and 5 hours of driving thrown into the mix, be ready for a big day. North Face of Vesper seems to be all the rage lately. Depends on how much you like easy protectionless climbing though. If you want, you can avoid the glacier by traversing across ledges (see Beckey), and supposedly if you stay in the corner on the face you can get some pro in [i haven't done the corner version myself]. Finally, I always recommend this to people asking this question...the North Ridge of Foggy Peak (up by Monte Cristo). Fun easy climbing on good rock on a scenic ridge, though the rock part is short. Climbing up the N Ridge then down the SW face/gulley worked for me. If you have bikes you can make the 4 mile approach into Monte Cristo pretty painless/quick and coming out is just fun.

And another map that might help

Hike up the road, until you come to this thing It may or may not have a cairn stacked on top of it. Once you get to this sandworm pipe, you must crawl through it (may want to take off your pack first). After crawling through the pipe, turn left, double back a little to your pack. You should be now looking back down the road you walked up. At this point look to your right (uphill), where you should spot a good trail. Follow that until you reach a big beautiful granite slab. Important Note: For these directions to work correctly, IT IS VERY IMPORTANT THAT YOU CRAWL THROUGH THE PIPE. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP!!!! Here's a map to help out some more

Probably because in order to convict on the charge of leaking classified information or whatever crime it is for Rove to out a CIA agent, it has to be demonstrated that the outer knew that the info was classified. Fitzgerald probably didn't feel he had enough proof of that aspect to be confident enough to be hauling one of the most powerful people in the country into court. Either that or there's something fishy going on

Man oh man, I did this same thing (somehow only had one rope clipped in rap device) this last weekend. Fortunately I was spared as my climbing partner super-ropegun-lurker-awfulwidther-hansel noticed my gaffe before I started rapelling. Thank you thank you thank you thank you.... Hansel saves the day (and possibly my life) again! Be careful out there everbody.